Question about 2003 Dodge Stratus

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Engine runs rough if it warms up won't start dtc codes p0118 and p0113 just did head gasket and replaced exhaust manifold all new gaskets new plugs wires and coolant engine timing marks are all c

This all began after replacing head gasket and timing belt

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  • 54 Answers

P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input


Low temperature results in a high signal voltage. When the PCM sees a signal voltage higher than 5 volts, it sets this P0113 check engine light code.

P0118 - The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor screwed into a coolant passage in the cylinder head. Sensor resistance is high when coolant temperature is low and resistance drops when coolant temperature increases. The powertrain control module (PCM) provides a 5 volt reference and a ground to the sensor. The PCM monitors voltage drop to determine coolant temperature. If the ECT reads less than freezing temp. when engine has been running for more than a few minutes, the PCM determines a circuit fault and sets this code. Or if the PCM determines the sensor resistance is out of specs, this code is set.
Potential Symptoms

Symptoms of a P0118 could include:

  • Very poor fuel economyengine runs rough if it warms up won't start d - icon1.png
  • A no start condition
  • Vehicle may start, but run very poorly, blowing black smoke, running very rough and misfiring
  • Illumination of MIL
Causes

A code P0118 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

  • A bad connection at the sensor
  • An open in the ground circuit between the ECT sensor and the PCM
  • A short in the voltage feed between the sensor and the PCM
  • A bad PCM (less likely)
  • A bad temperature sensor (shorted internally)

Posted on Jan 04, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 373 Answers

SOURCE: 3.9 v6 4x4 check engine light, runs rough

Replace the ECT sensor.
And letme know. If you feel any diference. ok.

Posted on Aug 16, 2008

egstriker23
  • 44 Answers

SOURCE: I need to remove the upper intake manifold from my

First off, you need to label all of the electrical and vacuum lines connecting to the intake manifold. This will make reassembly much easier. Then, there is a torque sequence to be used during disassembly and reassembly.2cf4be0.gif
This image is of the TIGHTENING SEQUENCE. Reverse this to take the manifold off. This is important so that the upper intake manifold is not warped at all, which would decrease the quality of the seal. Be careful during disassembly and reassembly to avoid bending any lines or tubes. If things are in your way, disconnect them rather than pushing them to the side. This will avoid pinching inner linings which cannot be seen visually.

As for the gaskets, (as far as I am aware), Chrysler's (Dodge's) official stance on the manifold gaskets is that they are reusable. However, this is if they ALL look good under close inspection. Any tears, "melting", or other damage means the gaskets should all be replaced. They are not expensive, and I believe they all come as a set including both upper and lower gasket sets. Personally, I would recommend replacing them regardless. This would be a good preventative step to help extend the life of the vehicle. Also be sure to check the cooling line O-rings and replace them as necessary, following the criteria above.

Good luck and I hope this helps, even though I see it is a bit late.

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

1fastbob
  • 301 Answers

SOURCE: replaced timing belt, but van will not start?

It is possible that this is a zero clearence engine. Meaning that the valves can hit the pistons if the cam timing is off or the timing belt breaks. I would strongly suspect that you have bent valves. This can easily be diagnosed with a compression test. If valves are bent the repair will require at least a rebuilt cylinder head and gaskets. It is also possible that there could be piston damage as well. The reason it is not starting is it has no compression due to bent valves.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 dodge ram pickup 318 eng.

If the engine seems to run fine over 1450 RPM maybe there is a vacuum hose leaking or EGR valve is slightly stuck open. Any help from the OBD II trouble codes? Or is there simply no MIL and no stored information in the OBD II computer read at the local parts store through the connector by the drivers knee?

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1999 dodge ram 1500, 5.9L, stalls out at idle.

I had the same symptom and it turns out the previous owner had installed an aftermarket alternator pulley. That pulley, while saving a few horsepower, spun the alternator slower, and didn't produce enough juice to charge the battery at all - at idle I would kill my battery within the hour. I had to go back to a factory pulley, and presto - problem fixed! My lights don't dim to 50% brightness at a stop sign anymore :)

Posted on Apr 30, 2010

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Sounds like antifreeze leaking in to me. Ports at rear of intake are trick and easy to get that gasket mis-aligned. Hate to say it but when you take the intake back off I imagine the culprit will be obvious. Only other thing is that the intake wsa fine and you actually had a blown head gasket.

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The Hyundai Elantra 2001 - 2005, 2.0 L engine is noted for this problem. It will lack power on acceleration and run rough and stall while driving. The engine light will come on for misfire codes. This problem is caused by a vaccum leak at the intake manifold gasket. The gasket is broken and needs to be replaced.
To replace the intake gasket with a new one, remove the 12m nuts holding the intake to the cylinder head. Then pry back( note: you do not have to completely remove the intake manifold here) the intake manifold to gain excess to remove the old gasket. Remove any excess gasket and clean with brake cleans the surface area of the intake. Install the new intake gasket on to the head and carefully install intake on to cylinder head studs. Tighten up nuts gradually and evenly to 15-20 ft.lbs.

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1997 Oldsmobile Silhouette. White smoke out of tailpipe ,running rough and service engine soon sensor flashing. I shut it off now it won't turn over. I don't have a clue what it could be! Do you...


sounds to me like the head gasket needs replacing,it's letting water in the engine and causing steam to come out of the exhaust pipe. check the water level,,,,,,,

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My 97 honda accord is blowing white smoke and running rough then i went to start it now it wont start


Sounds like either a blown motor (rings need replaced) or a bad head gasket or cracked head.
If the rings are bad your car would have felt like it was losing power because the engine will no longer have the same high compression that it's required to turn the wheels. You may have heard your engine knocking or seen a light blue colored smoke coming from your exhaust as a result of your engine burning up oil in the combustion chamber from the rings leaking.
If your head gasket is leaking or your head is cracked you'd likely find milky looking oil when you drain your oil from water/antifreeze being mixed in and noticed a white smoke coming from your exhaust that is actually water vapor coming through the exhaust.
If your car was running rough when you last shut it off try pulling all of your spark plugs and either cleaning them or replacing them all. A bad head gasket or bad rings can both foul spark plugs. A car will run rough with 1 or 2 fouled plugs, but once enough foul it will no longer run at all just sit and crank over. If changing the plugs get's it started for ya, check your tailpipe first for water, if nothing, change your oil. If no signs of water/antifreeze or milky colored oil then it's probably rings.

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Starter turns, won't start, overheated


You possibly have antifreeze in your engine where it dont belong, like the exhaust manifold if it was coming out of your exhaust. One reason it wont start is that either the head gasket went out and anitfreeze is leaking in that way or the manifold gasket is out and its getting in the combustion chambers to the pistons.

Jul 07, 2012 | 2008 Volkswagen New Beetle

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I have a 93 stealth keeps running hot my mac. Said it was waterpump so had him change it I changed redaitor . And thrumosat. All hoses I do have fans wire full blast. Is that bad just didn't want it to...


Good idea on the fans. Keep it that way till you fix the problem. Won't hurt anything, just may shorten fan life-but a new fan is much less expensive than a new engine.
Watch the temp gauge on your dash. The thermostat should open as it warms up, before the gauge gets up to half-way. You can tell when the thermostat starts to open-the upper radiator hose will start feeling hot, or at least start warming up. You will get a rough idea if the thermostat is working properly. By the time engine is at normal operating temperature, the thermostat should be fully open and the hose will feel quite warm. If the hose is still cool when engine is at operating temp., the thermostat may be opening too late, as in wrong thermostat. Not very likely, but always possible.
How did the shop check the head gaskets? Did they do a compression test? With new pump, new radiator, new hoses...should be good, but still runs hot? Any bubbling in your overflow tank? You may want to consider having a block test done, where they check for exhaust gases in the coolant. That would be a head gasket leak causing hot running condition. Maybe the shop checked the gaskets this way, or maybe they missed something? About the only other thing I could think of would be a coolant circulation problem inside the engine, a restriction or something, that an engine flush might clear up. A shop could do a reverse flush of the engine if there is a circulation problem.
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Received code P1400 engine light on what would cause this code?


GMC Truck Envoy - 2WD ' Envoy, Rainier, TrailBlazer, Ascender (VIN S/T) Service Manual ' Document ID: 1655997

DTC P1400
Diagnostic Instructions
• Perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle prior to using this diagnostic procedure.
• Review Strategy Based Diagnosis for an overview of the diagnostic approach.
• Diagnostic Procedure Instructions provides an overview of each diagnostic category.

DTC Descriptor:
DTC P1400: Cold Start Emission Reduction Control System

Circuit/System Description
The catalytic converter must be warmed to efficiently reduce the emissions. The cold start strategy is to reduce the amount of time it takes to warm the catalytic converter. During a cold start, the engine idle speed is elevated and spark timing is retarded to allow the catalyst to warm quickly. This diagnostic monitors the following to build an exhaust energy model:

• Engine speed
• Spark advance
• Throttle position
• Engine airflow
• Engine coolant temperature
• Engine runtime
• Park/neutral position
• Vehicle speed

The actual model is then compared to the expected exhaust energy model.

Conditions for Running the DTC
• A cold start has been detected.
• The vehicle speed is less than 2 km/h.
• The engine is at idle with no input from the accelerator pedal.
• The airflow per cylinder is greater than 80 mg/cylinder.
• DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0106, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0120, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0220, P0222, P0223, P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0205, P0206, P0300, P0335, P0336, P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355, P0356, P0502, P0506, P0507, P0601, P0602, P0603, P0604, P0606, P0607, P062F, P0641, P0651, P1101, P1516, P1682, P2101, P2119, P2120, P2122, P2123, P2125, P2127, P2128, P2135, P2138, P2176, P2610 are not set.
• This DTC runs for 15 seconds within the first 70 seconds of start up. This diagnostic runs once per trip when a cold start has been determined.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
The actual exhaust energy model does not match the expected exhaust energy model.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
• The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) when the diagnostic runs and fails.
• The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores this information in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
• The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
• A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
• A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
• Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.

Diagnostic Aids
Any loading of the engine that lowers engine RPM, such as with partial application of the clutch, during the first 70 seconds of engine run time may set this DTC.
Circuit/System Verification
Allow the engine to cool. Monitor the Cold Startup parameter. This should indicate Yes. Start and idle the engine for at least 2 minutes. DTC P1400 should run and pass.

Circuit/System Testing
• Inspect the air intake system for the following:
- If any other DTCs are set, diagnose them first. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle.
- Modified, damaged, or restricted
- Dirty or deteriorating air filter element
- Crankcase ventilation system for correct operation--Refer to Crankcase Ventilation System Inspection/Description.
- Water intrusion
- Vacuum leak and other un-metered air downstream of the mass air flow (MAF) sensor
- Intake manifold leak

• Inspect the exhaust system for the following:
- Water intrusion
- Exhaust leak
- Damaged, restricted, modified or enhanced exhaust system--Refer to Symptoms - Engine Exhaust .


Hope helps; keep us updated

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Only way to know for sure is to remove head and inspect it

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