Question about 2010 Chevrolet Equinox
Find and change spark plugs
Unscrew the clamp from the air box of the mas air flow sensor and engine on hose. remove the oil fill cap . also pull out the little vent line by the engine clamp them take thecover off and the cover under it you should see the sparck plugs
Posted on Apr 05, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I don't know if your vehicle is a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. This will make a difference in the # of cylinders as well as the placement. If it is the 4 c ylinder when you open the hood it says at Autozone.com that the spark plugs are on the front of the motor lined up 1-4. If it is the 6 cylinder then you will have 3 at the front of the motor and 3 at the back of the motor. Regardless it is the same concept. I don't know for this particular vehicle, but it is possible you may have to remove a large plastic engine covering in order to access the spark plugs. What I recommend is to replace the spark plug wires at the same time as the plugs. For all my vehicles I use NGK plugs and NAPA auto parts has the best plug wires I have used - Belden Maxx. Prior to starting you will want to check the "GAP" on each new spark plug. Using a spark plug gap tool available at parts places for about $1. Take the new plug and the non-porcelin end (the end that has the arc) insert the arc into the gap tool at the lowest end and slide the plug around until you reach the corresponding "GAP". For this vehicle it should be .44" (I checked on Autozone's website but you may want to check to be sure. At some of the part's places they may tell you that you don't have to check the gap, but believe me you alway's should. I just did a car where they insisted that I didn't need to check the gap and each plug was not gapped properly. The Arc on the plug has to be specific for your vehicle or you will have too much spark or not enough. After gapping the new plugs you are ready to start. Somewhere on the side of the motor you should see either 4 or 6 wires/cables branching out to the cylinders. Starting with whichever you prefer (do only one at a time to avoid confusion) trace the wire/cable to the cylinder and where it goes to the cylinder a "boot" covers the spark plug. Twist the boot until it comes off . If you are going to replace the plug wires take that one off and match it up to your new set (They will be different lengths). You will need a ratchet and a spark plug socket (available at parts places) The spark plug socket has rubber on the inside to protect the porcelin of the spark plug, and to provide grip. You may or may not need a small extension. Place the spark plug socket over the end of the spark plug and apply pressure until the spark plug begins to loosen. You may have to apply quite a bit of pressure if they are in there tight. Once it is loosened take the old plug out, and place the new plug in the spark plug socket. Don't use the ratchet at this point, just begin to thread the plug in by hand once it is in there as much as you can get it, tighten it down with the ratchet making sure not to over-tighten. Do the other cylinders in the same manner.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
With all due respect for the opinion - I suggest you will do it better working from the underside for the 3 on the rear of engine.
Four points in your story motivated me to try from the underside (and I just finished the job without any hicups):
- mechanics suggested from the underside
- 130 lb sitting in the engine compartment will likely damage or crack something
- removing the distributor should not be needed
I drove the car with the front wheels on a pair of inclines to get more clearance underneath, secured it, then squezed from the front between the wheels. A good thin flurescent light can fit from the bottom up to help you see what you're doing.
The boots from the spark plugs I removed without much effort, then with fingertips I felt the exact place of the plugs. I fit a short 3" extension over the socket, then squeezed the handle and started turning. All theree came out without problems (before removing completely I also squeezed the extension pipe of a can of compressed air and blew air to clean around the plugs).
You need to "see" with your fingers and remember how the plugs are inclined to fit the new ones, but otherwise is just a little exhausting that you have to be a contortionist and find a good position (something to raise your head while working underneath, like a cardboard box would be useful).
So the bottom line is that it works as well from the bottom and don't have to remove anything else.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
SOURCE: spark plugs
The spark plugs on the cavalier are under the 2.2 ecotec panel located on the top of the engine. There are no spark plug wires to deal with. The electronic coil pack directly attaches to the plugs with rubber seats like in a spark plug end. Then you use a deep socket ratchet to get the plugs out. Use anti-seize compound when replacing the plugs.
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
for the most part they are in between the fuel injector the best thing for you to do is stop by your local GM dealership in the part department and they be able to print you off the pictures and diagrams you need if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your car Merry Christmas and Happy New Year as always wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009
Testimonial: "great thanks for the info. bobbotg2005"
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