Replaced battery, voltage regulater, alternater....Still only getting 13 volts at best. complete drain with lights on. Also latly I have to tap on top of the siloniod to get it to ingage starter.Any suggestions ould be appreciated.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has answered 10 or more questions between 12 midnight and 6am on the same day.
Re: Not getting charge 1983 ford bronco
Prob you should replace the starter solenoid, i think there is a connection for the battery there. also when you replaced the alt did you replace the wiring and plug? you have to solder a new one in place. also a lot of people think their problem is when the engine is running an what is really a problem is some kind of a voltage drain durning the night. with the key off and all doors closed pull a battery cable off and put a 12 v bulb between the cable and the battery. if it glows bright then you have a voltage drain. thats easy to find just start pulling fuses while an assistant watches the light. when it goes out or dims you have found the curcit that is draining. you may get some small drain from radio and clock type stuff. Oh and I have gotten a bad alt "new" from the parts house. now I always make them test the new one before i leave the store.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
if wont jump battery has internal short and is bad replace with good battery get cheap ohm meter to test alternator out put. install battery ck voltage start engine ck voltage should rear 13-14 volts if not charging will read battery voltage with steady voltage drop. running with neg. cable unhooked can cause damage from voltage spike.
Start your engine and take digatal multimeter and ground the black probe and put the red one on the back on the alternators large red wire and read the voltage it should between 13-15 volts anything more or less then you will need to replace the alternator.
OK Check the voltage coming out of the alternator while it's running you should have at least 13-14.7 volts and no less than 13 volts and no more than 15 volts.Also check your alternator belt for slipage.
You need to measure the charging voltage and current using a multimeter while Rev'ing the engine. If there is no clean flow to the battery then you need to start from the alternator, the output ac and the charging regulator section which rectifies and controls the charging. The alternator can be taken out and checked individually , if there is a steady AC flow. Check the battery ground and also the charging regulator which is usually an extra unit- trace the lines of the alternator to this unit.
Please find some tips below .
test battery if voltage is 13 volts or better check positive and negative cable for clean good conections check in line fusible link by starter on positive cable if all good remove starter with solenoid take to parts store and have it checked solenoid may be bad. if all is good check main fuse usually under hood . If battery voltage is not 13 volts or better have alternater tested have battery load tested after chargeing.
First tell me why you don't think it's charging.
Because of the voltage reading you are getting at the battery terminals? The range you want is between 13.6v to 14.2v. The higher the voltage the lower the amps. and true the other way, the lower the voltage the higher the amps. If you get a reading of 13.6v or lower, the alt is nearing or at max output. An alt can only run at maximum for around fifteen minutes and it will start slinging solder from overheating. It's a good indication the battery is either totally dead or junk. Charging above 14.2 the alternater is running wide open and is only putting out high volts which will cause the battery to boil , in turn destroying it. This is a bad alternater. All alternaters have integrated voltage regulater with the exception of ver few of the earlier ones. You cannot test an alternater by removing a battery cable to see if the engine keeps running without taking great risk of damaging the alt, regulator. So tell me why you feel it isn't charging. Remember an alt is not made to charge dead batteries. Their sole function is to maintain the battery charge. Without a battery, the alt won't last 10 seconds.
Hope to hear from you and good luck.
I believe that your vehicle has an external voltage regulator for the chargeing system.just FYI the spec on all vehicle chargeing systems when the vehicle is running should be 13.8-14.2 when checked with a volt meter.I would start by checking the voltage regulator.If it isnt external than your alt is bad.
Looks like you have replaced all of the key parts, and then some. At this point I would verify that the alternator is charging the battery. With engine off, check battery voltage. Start the engine and check thre voltage again. It should climb to charging voltage, around 13.0 to 13.5 volts. If it doesn't, check all connections. On a vehicle this old, I would start with the ground circuits.