Question about 2009 Toyota RAV4
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I work for Toyota, and I will be glad to provide you with the actual answer:
The RAV/4 product is available in two models, a 4WD model and a 2WD model.
The difference between the two is on the 2WD model, there is no driveshaft going under the vehicle to the rear wheels, and no rear differential. There is no "RAV/2"; both models are called RAV/4's.
There is a lot of common confusuion about how the 4WD works. It is full time 4WD. In other words, it is always in 4WD. It does not "kick in/kick out/automatically engage", or anything like that. It is 4WD all of the time. But, when I say "4WD", that is sometimes mistaken for "all wheel drive", and, in this case, the RAV/4 is not "AWD". What this means is that if you raise the RAV/4 up on a lift, and put it in gear, 1 rear and the other side front tires will spin. True "all wheel drive" would have ALL 4 wheels spinning. This is not the case with the Rav/4. What the RAV does have, making up for not having "True AWD" on the 5 speed model, however, is a switch that locks the center differential in the transfer case, which, when engaged, applies a method of "locking" the 4WD system for maximum traction, but it is still not AWD. The automatic version doe not have this ability.
The last "true AWD" vehicle for purchase was a 1970's International Scout.
If you are considering purchasing a RAV/4, that is a very good investement. They hold their value quite well, and are virtually bulletproof; I do not make any "money" off my RAV/4 customers...
Just "gas station work". Very nice cars. I hope that this helps you, please feel free to comment back with any otherr questions...Glad to be of assistance.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I can get you a diagram on monday but it goes from the alternator to the power steering pump then around the tensioner pulley then around the crank pulley then to the a/c compressor then pull on the tensioner to give you some slack and slip it on the waterpump.I hope that helps.Let me know if you still need the diagram
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
fIRST YOU SEE A RUBBER GASKET SURROUNDING THE HEADLIGHT PLUG IN THE BACK OF THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY. pULL OFF THE GASKET AND LET IT HANG ON THE SURROUN DING HEADLIGHT WIRES. tHEN PULL OFF THE HEADLIGHT WIRE HARNESS BY GRABBING THE SOCKET (NOT THE WIRES). AROUND THE BULB IS A THIN SILVER HOLDING SPRING THAT LOOSENS BY SQUEEZING THE ENDS TOGETHER AND ROTATING IT. iT WILL LOOSEN AROUND THE HEADLIGHT. WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE HEADLIGHT WILL "FLOP" AROUND AND PULL IT OUT, REMEMBERING TO SEE HOW THE THREE CONNECTORS ARE LOCATED (I.E - IS ONE CONNECTOR AT 12 O CLOCK POSITION AND THE OTHER TWO ARE AT 9 AND 3 OR ARE THEY AT 3,6 AND 9, ETC.). rE-ASSEMBLY IS THE OPPOSITIE. tHE TRICK IS TO GET THE THIN SPRING WIRE BACK IN PLACE. YOU HAVE TO SQUEEZE THE SPRING AND RE-POSITION IT SO IT KEEPS THE BULB SECURLY IN PLACE
Having just changed the bulb, I would advise taking the whole headlight assembly out first. It is near impossible to feel or imagine how to change the bulb without seeing it. First, use a phillips screwdriver to take the single screw holding the strip off just below the headlight assembly. By doing so, you will now see the other two bottom bolts holding the headlight in. Take all four bolts out then disconnect the bulb from behind. Then proceed as above.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
I had the same problem. A computer check showed that the emission system was having difficulty. The catalytic converter had to be replaced. The car had under 80,000 miles on it so it was covered by a warranty (State law? Federal law?).
My battery was also dead. That was replaced free too. It had a 7 year warranty.
I do NOT purchase extended warranties.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
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