Question about Mazda Cars & Trucks
Engine light comes on intermittently test code comes up throttle circuit low (p1120)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is certainly a short somewhere. Most dealers will not take the time to find a short, they are in the business of selling parts. I would find a local mechanic that has a electrical specialist on staff to find the problem for you.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
yes, this is the case of a failed throttle body, in which case it needs replaced, the car is getting too much fuel causing the high idle. this needs replaced asap. you could proably find a small independant honda shop that could do the work for less.
Posted on May 12, 2009
SOURCE: 98 lexus gs300 codes p1120 p1121
I wanted to start a thread specifically about failures within the throttle body concerning the GS300 (1998 in my case)
My symptons were:
VSC, VSC OFF, and ENGINE Lights would come on, followed by my car going into Limp Mode, where only that last 25% (if that) of the throttle would respond (basically have to floor the pedal to even move at all).
During the mornings, or when the engine was COLD, the throttle operated normal...then once the car warmed up, usually at about 10 mins, the problem would start...it happened intermitantly at first...1 or 2 days over the course of a week, then it became more consitent, until last week it became a daily problem.
The first part I tried was the Throttle Position sensor, which is on the front side of the throttle body, and the easiest thing to replace...this didnt help at all. $300 part from Lexus, $80 part from RockAuto.com (exacly same part toyota OEM)
THE PART THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM:
"Idle Valve Motor", which is the larger electrical object next to the TPS on my 98 GS300. Problem is solved.
The Codes I got were P1120 and P1121 - Accelerator Sensor problem. However it wasnt really the Accelerator Sensor, it was indeed to actual electrical Motor that controls the opening of the Butterfly valve inside the Throttle body.
I found the problem by good old trouble shooting, and using an ohm meter to see if the throttle electric motor was getting elev, I found that the elec motor just to the left of the TPS was basically freaking out and shutting down. The Accelerator Pedal Sensor is on the Back-side of the throttle body where the throttle cable connects to, and has a spring on it. It was fine.
GS300's are indeed "drive by wire" concerning the throttle...the cable triggers the Accel Pedal Sensor, which sends a signal to the ECU, the ECU then sends power to the Idel Valve Elec Motor (next to the TPS), which opens and closes the mechanical butterfly valve, then the TPS sensor detects how far the elec motor is actually opening the butterfly valve...its a closed-loop feed-back system, meaning any failure in any sensor will cause the entire systm to fail.
The throttle cable apparently is ONLY there to allow the fail-safe of having that last 10-25% throttle when the electronic system fails...there is a gearbox inside the throtle body which allows the tail end of the throttle to manually engage the butterfly valve...the rest of the time, the butterfly valve is 100% opened and closed via the idle control motor.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
check ur gas cap for tight and proper seal that is the most common problem for the the evap codes if cap is good check fuel and vent lines for damage or leaks from gas cap under vehicle up to engine compartment
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
First, to read VW codes you will want to get yourself a $50 VAG tool. It will read all your systems, not just the ECU.
Electronic Power Control can go out for several reasons. Check your brake lights with the car running. Check you radiator fluid level. If the car is running bad, you could have bad spark plugs/ wires or ignition coil.
The traction control is tied into the ABS system and often causes problems here as well. Each wheel has a speed sensor and magnet wheel in the hub. You can check these for damage by removing the tires for access. The sensors come out by hand, and inside the hole they come out of is the place to check the magnets with a flash light. Apply a small amount of wheel bearing grease to the sensor.
The control unit goes out in these systems at an alarming rate. They can be easily removed, and repaired for under $200 at modulemaster.com
Since it is intermit, I suspect most likely a loose sensor, or electrical connector.
If your brakes feel squishy at all, bleed the brake lines of air and contaminants.
Posted on Feb 23, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Throttle body tampering, excessive deposits, or damage. Refer to Fuel System Description .
Restricted air intake system
Large vacuum leak
Inspect the air intake ducts for being collapsed, damaged areas, looseness, improper installation, or leaking especially between the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the throttle body.
Inspect crankcase ventilation valve for proper operation.
Inspect the throttle position (TP) sensor and related wiring. Refer to DTC P0123 .
Monitor the 24X crank sensor and the CMP sensor present parameters on the scan tool. If both are not responding, test the sensor feed circuit. Both sensors use a separate feed circuit but are internally connected to power. Test all CKP sensor A and CMP sensor circuits for intermittents. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
Monitor the 3X parameter on the scan tool. If the 3X is not responding, inspect the CKP sensor B and circuits for intermittents. Inspect the ignition control (IC) circuit, IC timing control circuit, low resolution engine speed signal circuit and the low reference circuit for intermittents. If these circuits become open, or shorted may not set a DTC immediately, but are capable of causing driveability complaints. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
Test the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system for proper operation. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Description .
Inspect the transaxle range switch input with the vehicle in drive and the gear selector in drive or overdrive.
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