Question about Cars & Trucks
Bleeding the brakes
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
7.1. Place the hex end of the wrench over the wheel cylinder bleeder valve. 7.2. Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a clear container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
8.1. Place the proper size hex end of the wrench over the caliper bleeder valve. 8.2. Place a clear tube over the caliper bleeder valve. 8.3. Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a clear container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
if rear wheel drive the combination valve has be held open.you have to have a combination valve depressor tool .you need a scanner to do abs brake functional test.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
Why were the brake lines replaced?
Sounds like the mastercylinder may have run dry. You have to bench bleed the master and then DO NOT allow fluid to run low, while bleeding brakes...
if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
One man suction bleeder from the calipers with top off the reservoir and keep it full when you **** fluid out the caliper.
Posted on Apr 29, 2010
To bleed brakes on your particular vehicle is the same as it's been for Years. Start at the wheel furthest away from the Master Cylinder. (a helper is needed to do this unless you have a pressurized brake bleeding unit). Start the car and have someone pump the brake up about ten times and hold the brake pedal down. Then at your right rear wheel, open the bleeder and allow the air and brake fluid to squirt out. Close the bleeder while your helper still has his foot on the brake and repeat until nothing but brake fluid comes out...then move to your left rear, right front and finally left front doing the same thing. Between going to another wheel, have your helper check the master cylinder's fluid level for if it goes dry during your bleeding operation, then you'll just be putting air back into the system. A couple of words of caution here...the first is that brake fluid is highly corrosive to paint, so make sure you immediately wipe it from painted surfaces and number two: DO NOT USE$ OLD BRAKE FLUID WHILE PERFORMING THIS OPERATION! Brake fluid has a quality about it that it absorbs moisture from the air...or the humidity. In this case, you're introducing water into your brake system which means all metal parts in your braking system that's in contact with this poor mixture will eventually fail due to rust. Yes, rust will form from old brake fluid with moisture in it and can cause a metal piston in a brake caliper to "freeze" causing a violent jerking of the wheel when applying brakes normally while driving. ALWAYS use fresh brake fluid (unopened), when performing a job such as this.
Hope this Helps,
"Still living on the Right Side of Dirt..."
Posted on May 18, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 22, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 24, 2016 | 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser
Jan 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
Jul 24, 2015 | 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor
May 24, 2015 | Ford Escort Cars & Trucks
Dec 06, 2010 | Volkswagen Golf Cars & Trucks
Sep 29, 2010 | 2001 GMC Jimmy
Aug 26, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab
Sep 20, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Suburban
414 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!