Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE BELT TENSIONER.
IF YOU BUY THE CARTER BELT TENSIONER AT ADVANCED AUTO, IT COMES WITH: A PLASTIC ELBOW WITH O RINGS, TENSIONER, PULLEY, NEW O RING WHERE THE BELT TENSIONER MATES TO THE ENGINE BLOCK AND NEW O RINGS FOR THE INLET AND OUTLET CONNECTIONS ON THE BELT TENSIONER TO THE HEATER CORE (COST $72).
IF YOU DON'T REPLACE ALL THE ABOVE O RINGS THEN YOU CAN EXPECT MORE LEAKS.
IN ORDER TO REPLACE THE PLASTIC ELBOW YOU MUST REMOVE THE BELT TENSIONER ANYWAY. IF THE BELT HAS SEVERE CRACKS REPLACE IT ALSO.
-DRAIN ANTIFREEZ AND DISCARD
-REMOVE BELT TENSIONER
-REMOVE PLASTIC ELBOW (DO NOT ALLOW BROKEN PIECES PLASTIC OR DIRT TO GET INSIDE THE ENGINE WATER CAVITIES.
-CLEAN ALL CONNECTION WHERE O RING WILL MATE.
-TO REASSEMBLE GO IN REVERS ORDER
-REFILL THE RADIATOR WITH COOLENT 50% MIX USE THE 5 YR GUARANTEE TYPE.
-MAKE SURE THE COOLENT RESERVIOR IS
FILLED TO THE HOT LEVEL MARK.
-RUN THE ENGINE UNTILE IT IT REACHES THE 1/4 % TEMP MARK ON THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE THEN TURN THE ENGINE OFF AND OPEN THE BLEED SCREW ON TOP OF THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING.
ALLOW THE AIR TO EVACUATE, YOU WILL SEE COOLENT COME OUT THEN CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW.
-BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN YOU OPEN THE RADIATOR TO REFILL TO THE TOP.
-REPEAT THIS ONE MORE TIME.
-RUN THE ENGINE AND KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE' IF THE TEMPERATURE GOES BEYOND THE 1/2% MARK, SHUT DOWN THE ENGINE QUICKLEY AND LET THE ENGINE COOL.
THIS MAY TAKE HOURS TO COOL DOWN BUT THE COOLING SYSTEM WILL TURN FROM PRESSURIZED TO VACUUM AND DRAW COOLENT FROM THE RESERVOIR TO REFILL THE SYSTEM.
YOU WILL NOTICE THE LEVEL DROP IN THE RESERVOIR .
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
SOURCE: replacement of heatercore
I believe you have to dissassemble the lower part of the hvac unit under the dash to gain access to the heater core, then disconnect the hoses at the firewall and remove the heater core.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
Need a bit more information, Is the security light on, have you checked for spark and fuel pressure, just in case you did and know it is the passlock system then check this out, hopefully it will ansewer your problem, please rate your mechanics help.
have a great day. Sorry the pictures won't come up, but check out the site
GM Passlock I & II Information
Please study the following information carefully WHEN INSTALLING REMOTE START systems on a 1996 or later GM car or truck.
Introduced in 1996, GM has changed the VATS anti theft system to Pass-Lock system. This is a similar device to the VATS system, in that there is a resistor present during the start cycle. However, in the PASSLOCK system, the resistor has been placed inside the ignition switch, instead of the key. See the GM V.A.T.S page for more information.
To remotely start a car with this feature, you must bypass the PASSLOCK system. There are two methods of doing so.. The first, is to permanently bypass this system. This is the easiest method for accomplishing your task. The second way, is to temporarily bypass the PASSLOCK, by introducing relays into the system, which retain all of the features of the system, while allowing your remotes start module to bypass it automatically during a remote start cycle.
(1996 and newer): N & J body cars, such as
Pontiac Sunfire and GrandAm Passlock-1
Chevrolet Cavalier Passlock-1
Buick Skylark Passlock-1
Oldsmobile Achieva Passlock-1
1997 or newer
Chevrolet Malibu Passlock-II
Oldsmobile Cutlass Passlock-II
1998 or newer
All trucks , SUVs and Vans Passlock-II
It is important to pay special attention to the fact that there are many different ways of achieving the same goal. There are actually 2 different Passlock-II systems. On the next page, there are tests to establish which type of passlock-II your car has.
Relays shown are standard automotive 5 pin spdt relays, available from IEI.
A multi meter is required to measure the resistance values. Accuracy is important within 5%.
Once the value of the resistor is measured, a resistor of the same value +/-5% must be purchased (Radio Shack, for example). You can also use a Potentiometer (POT), which can be adjusted to the same value of the resistor in the ignition switch.
Passlock-I bypass procedure....
1: Remove the top and bottom shrouds from the steering column.
2: Find the 3 wire ribbon cable, coming from the ignition switch, containing White, Black, Yellow (Sometimes White, Black, Black). These are THIN wires.
3: Locate the Black 6 position connector on the LEFT side of the steering column, right above the ignition switch position. There is a BLACK (Thin) wire in this connector, called "Bulb Test", which shows Ground with ignition in the Off position, OPEN in the "Run" position, and GROUND in the "Crank" position.
4: Turn the ignition switch to the "Run" position. Do not crank the car.
5: Cut the Thin Yellow wire and strip both ends.
6: Without cutting the Black wire, expose some of the copper.
7: Using the ohmmeter, measure from the Yellow wire (the end coming from the ignition switch), to the exposed Black wire and record the value. Measure more than once to assure you have the right value.
8: Acquire the same size resistor and 3 relays, and perform the connections shown in the diagram below.
PASSLOCK-II bypass procedure
There are 2 types of Passlock-II systems. To determine which system you have, follow these instructions;
1: Locate two wires, which are THIN and are in the main ignition harness.. Orange/Black (or Black) and Yellow.
2: Cut the Yellow wire, and strip back some of the insulation from the Orange/Black (Or Black) wires.
3: Turn the ignition to the "Run" position ( don't crank the starter). Measure and record the value measured from the KEY SIDE of the Yellow wire, to the Black/Orange wire.
4: Turn the key to the "Crank" position and release. Now read the value again.
5: If the value changed, follow "Method#1". If the value stayed the same, follow "Method#2".
These diagrams are from our friends at ALARMTEK AUTO ALARM
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Posted on Oct 22, 2009
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