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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like your window assembly has failed or the cable has broken. An easy repair, once the door panel is removed and the assembly disconnected from door.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
SOURCE: R & R power window drivers side
I am in the process of doing this now to my 96 Lincoln Towncar. Today I removed the door panel. Hidden scews that attach the door panel are at end end of the door pull strap. The plastic end pieces are removable and each have a screw underneath securing the top of the door panel.
Hidden behind the water shield material at the top of the door are two nuts that retain the top connection of the window lift. I am going to razor cut a straight line through the water shield material to insert a socket to remove the two nuts and then put duck tape over the razor cuts rather that pull the water shield material from the door frame.
Started drilling on the left rivet to detach window from the regulator and quit for the evening.
Have three rivets to drill to detach the pwoer window motor from the door frame.
Two more rivets at the bottom of the door to drill out to detach the lower window regulator from the door frame.
Do not know how I am going to remove the right rivet of the bracket that hold the window yet. Looks like a would need a long drill bit to reach through the door frame to make contact with the rivet.
The replacement rivets that came with my window regulator are to big for my rivet tool. Could end up using nuts and bolts. Sure would make it easier for the next window regulator replacement.
Hope I have some good luck using the drill tomorrow. kkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
SOURCE: Power window does not work
you need to buy or make a clip removal tool. it looks like a sturdy 2 prong fork to pry off the plastic clips.this id whats holding the interior panel and some screws holding the door opener
Posted on May 30, 2009
I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.
The power window works great! I don't need an "electronic minder" to stop power to the motor at the top or bottom of the travel; I can do that. I don't intend to place my head in the window and push the button. If you have kids, this fix might not be for you.
Posted on May 31, 2009
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