Question about 1995 Ford Thunderbird

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The heater kicks on but only blows cold air - 1995 Ford Thunderbird

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  • Ford Master
  • 5,522 Answers

You need to check both heater hoses for circulation when the engine is warmed up and the heater is set for heat. If both hoses are equally hot, water is circulating. This means the heater core and water valving are delivering heat. You would then look for ductwork problems that are failing to route the air under the dash past the heater core.

If the heater hoses under the hood are not equally hot, then you would check to see if the water flow valving is working and what is preventing the flow. In worst case scenario, the heater core is blocked. Try disconnecting the heater hoses and using a garden hose to verify a blockage. Reversing the flow could also clear a blocked core.

Finally, some Digital Climate controls have a diagnostic sequence which can be activated to self-diagnose some problems. This is more difficult to obtain this info because you need the matching Codes to decipher the results. Dealers would have this info.

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Posted on Jan 03, 2013

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  • Contributor
  • 7 Answers

It possible to a big leaf or a plastic bag stuck where ur blower motor is. Check in ur blower motor compartment for debris.

Posted on Jan 03, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

vmhreha
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: air condition/heater

sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

  1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
  1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

  2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
  • the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
  • the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
  • the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
  • the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
  • the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
  1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
  2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
  3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
  4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
  5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

jamaicanmech
  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: My 1999 Ford F150 Heater only blows out cold air

guys have you checked for a vaccum leak????? there is a little plastic ball with a vaccum line going to it that controls the outside air coming in. check for a leak in this line

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: heater is blowing but its cold air not hot air 2000 expedition

Make sure the heater core is in the open position by using the shut off valve and turning it to open. next, you may have a malfunction in the direction door the directs the air flow in the dash. a lever may have become lose or separated. may be a bad servo motor not directing the door to move to the heater position. i would start by checking that shut off valve first on the heater core.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

ifixgms
  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Heater blows cold air.

heater cores clog in taurus. way to know is this--engine fully hot--heat on reach down to the fire wall and grab hold of one of the heater hoses where it hooks to the core--one should be real hard to keep hold of because its that hot. If the other is close to the same the core is not clogged. But if the other is cold to the touch its clogged. You can remove the hoses and shoot garden hose water in one side or the other and break it loose usually

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

Mike258
  • 1498 Answers

SOURCE: my heater only blows cold air-'98 ford explorer

Hi Bri,

That is usually the first symptom of low coolant. Not enough water in the system to circulate through the heater core. Has it been running hot?

Check the coolant level in the radiator

Best regards,
Mike

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

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1 Answer

2000 caddy Seville ...after starting and engine warm turn on the heater and it blows cold air. Fan works / waiting for hot air and then all the sudden it kicks in. Engine at normal temp


Low coolant, if there is an air pocket in the engine it will make it to the heater core. Once there , the air coming out is cold/cool. Once the coolant fills the heater core, it gets hot. If the coolant is fine hot or cold, then have the HVAC system scanned.

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You have air trapped in system , change thermostat , bleed air from system , let it run hot while adding coolant with blower full blast on all front and rear heaters .

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The heater kicks on but only blows cold air


Air Temperature Control Blend Door Failure No Heat or no AC (dependes on where door sticks)

In all modern cars there is a tiny DC electric motor driven gear drive that moves a plastic door that blends heated and cooled air from the AC and the heater core, this is called (interestedly enough) the air temperature control blend door actuator. The motor that moves this door fails because the door starts sticking from warping, most common complaint is no heat but it can be no AC as well. To replace these parts (blend door and blend door actuator) you must remove the entire dash from the car. Always have this problem confirmed by a dealer or qualified repair shop as it is a very expensive repair.

Other causes of no heat in the cabin are engine thermostats that are stuck open (engine runs cold) or air bubbles in the cooling system.

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1992 Dodge Dakota 2wd 3.9L V6 Air conditioning/Heater dosent blow? when i turn the air or the heat on i can hear the compressor kick on but it dosen't blow cold or hot? any help would be appreciated


Roger it sounds like the blower motor is not comming on. There is a resistor network located in the engine compartment on the passenger side mounted to the firewall, that controlls the blower motor. The connections may have corroted or the unit itself is bad. That was the first thing I had to relpace when I got my used 92 Dakota. There is also a 30 amp fuse in the fuse box under the dash board . If that is blown I would suspect the blower motor is seized up or just pulling too much power.

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I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 that will blow cold and hot air for only a few minutes. After that is only ambient air temps. It is a 5.7 ltr, automatic with only one set of climate controls. The heater core...


you say it will blow cold and hot air for only a few minutes. You don't say but I assume you mean will blow cold a few min. when turned on AC max , blow hot only a few min. when turned to heater hot. Assuming thats the situation and you say AC charged and shows good on the low side -you should charge the AC to a full charge on the low side will cause problems with the AC air compressor kicking on and off. I suggest while the engine is running and turned to AC cold max watch the AC air compressor clutch to see if it does indeed kick on and off if so charge completely. As far as the heater make certain you coolant is all the way to the top and the best way to do this is when engine is completely cold remove radiator cap and fill completely and completely close cap then fill overflow container just to the cold level. That should fix your problem.

Sep 06, 2011 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD

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Air conditioner suddenly stops blowing cold and starts blowing heated air. Control panel indicates that it is still on air conditioner. Switching the control from vent to cold does not have any effect. ...


If you are absolutely confident the AC compressor is not kicking out on low pressure then it is the blend door actuator.

The blend door determines how much air blows through the heater core or evaporator.

The actuator can be purchased at dealer and maybe at a local part store.

May 27, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche

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The doors that open and close in the heater control unit are ran by motors. It sounds like a motor has quit in yours. When turning on the defrosters the motor closes the door to the heat for the floor

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