Question about Cars & Trucks
It is probably the "cold start" cycle. A Temperature sensor will send a signal to the computer in order to make the fuel charge rich and change the timing. This will last less than 3 minutes on many cars.
The process is similar to the old "choke" system adding a timing change to the rich fuel mix. Many cars have 2 Temperature sensors and for those you want to change the one that does NOT work the dash gauge or light. The sensor you want is dedicated to providing temperature info to the computer.
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Posted on Jan 03, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes, the sensor can be replaced in your garage (if you have some decent auto repair experience).
This is not an easy job due to the location of the crank sensor.
Below are the steps I used to replace the crankshaft position sensor.
The steps are for a 2004 Nissan Altima with a 2.5 liter engine.
Nissan has a crank and cam sensor kit. I would not buy any aftermarket sensors because of the effort required to replace the sensors. (I do not work for Nissan). The information below is compiled of tips I found on the internet and my own experience. Even though these procedures may appear lengthy, it took me much longer to figure out the correct steps involved for this task.
Even though I have included all of the steps (and hints) I used… THIS IS NOT AN EASY JOB FOR THE “DO IT YOURSELFER”
CRANK SENSOR IS LOCATED AT FIRE WALL SIDE OF BLOCK BETWEEN MOTOR MOUNT AND FLYWHEEL. YOU GET TO IT FROM TOP.
Remove the (4) allen head bolts that hold the plastic engine cover. Remove the air tube that connects the throttle chamber to air filter box. Pull off the valve cover breather hose with the air tube. Now place a drop light under the two rubber heater hoses (at the firewall on the drivers hand side), shining the light forward towards the back side of the block (below the intake runners). To see the crankshaft sensor and connector, look between the valve cover and the throttle chambers (intake runners) on the drivers side, look straight down toward the ground… look for the sensor with a black wire connector with a green tab on the side, held to the engine block with a gold colored 10mm hex headed bolt. You will need to view the sensor from this position as you are following the steps below to remove and install the crank sensor. There is a large wiring harness bracket attached to the transmission bell housing that was temporarily unbolted to aid with the removal and installation of the crank sensor.
What turned out to be the biggest problem was the connector securing the wiring harness to the sensor. Unlike the camshaft position sensor connector that is removed by squeezing in on a tab located at the top of the connector, the crank position sensor was secured to the harness via some green colored push button assembly. To remove the crank sensor connector, the green tab must depressed ALL THE WAY DOWN (towards the block) UNTIL THE GREEN TAB LOCKS INTO PLACE - REMAINING IN A “PUSHED IN” POSITION (You should hear a “click”). I was able to accomplish this by viewing the connector as described above and at the same time, reach around the back side of the engine using a 6” – 8” flat blade screw driver (with a large head) and push the green tab in towards the block until it locked into place. After the green tab was depressed and locked, (still viewing from above) I repositioned my hand holding a smaller flat blade screw driver to gently pry the connector off the sensor inserting the blade of the screw driver between the bottom of the connector and the crank sensor (a slight twist should do it). I do not recommend pulling on the connector wires or trying to pull the connector off with pliers as damage may result - because in my world of auto repair, if there is a chance that something will break because I am not careful… IT WILL BREAK! After you have removed the connector and while viewing from above, use a ¼” drive ratchet with a 6” extension and a 10mm socket to loosen the gold bolt holding the crank sensor in place. I recommend that you loosen the bolt with the socket, then reach your hand around to the connector and remove the bolt by hand. After the bolt is removed, use an 8” slip jaw pliers - set at its widest opening setting – to grab the sensor. First twist then pull out the sensor.
Be sure to clean the inside of the sensor’s wiring connector with break cleaner spray and blow out with compressed air to get rid of any oil that may have leaked into the connector from the defective crank sensor… this is what probably caused the trouble code in the first place.
You are now ready to install the new crank sensor. If you purchased the crank and cam sensor kit from Nissan, make sure that sensor with white dot at bolt whole goes to the crank. Be sure to oil the rubber “O” ring. I was not able to get the green tab on the connector to snap back into place while the new sensor was installed in the block. I installed the connector to the sensor while it was out of the block – the green tab still did not pop back into its original position on its own – so…while the connector was installed as far down as I could push it, it used a small flat blade screw driver to push on the bottom of the green tab towards the top. That did the trick. While viewing from above, I placed the crank sensor back into the block. I was not able to get the rubber “O” ring to seat within the block by hand. I used the gold bolt to draw the sensor in while slowly tightening. HINT: I taped the outside of the washer of the crank sensor bolt to the 10mm socket to hold the bolt on place while I inserted the bolt into the block… you can do this by hand, but I didn’t want to drop the bolt . I also taped the socket to the ratchet extension so the socket would not get stuck on the bolt (it’s a snug fit down there).
If you were able to accomplish the above procedures, the cam sensor is a snap to remove in install. It is located in the driver’s side portion of the head facing the wheel.
Remember to reinstall all brackets and items that were removed.
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
SOURCE: 1998 Nissan Maxima
You may have a problem with the check valve in the fuel pump, if this valve is defective the gas drains back to the fuel tank and causes long crank times, you can test this by hooking up a fuel pressure guage at the fuel injector fuel supply line on the top of the engine, run the engine for a moment and quickly record the pressure when you shut down, that pressure reading should not drop more than 5 PSI overnight, if the check valve is bad the pressure will most likely start to drop right away, but do the over night test anyway. If this is the problem you will need to replace the fuel pump in the gas tank.
Posted on Nov 03, 2008
No recall information on that situation at this time. if you suspect this, you can contact the dealer and provide your vin and they can look up a new or non released recall for your vehicle. If this recall has just been released, it will take some time to circulate though the recall system. at this time, nothing is showing up on our systems on a recall for the crank and cam sensors.
Posted on May 21, 2009
If it has a code for loosing the crankshaft position sensor signal, I would certainly start looking at that before venturing into the fuel system. Cam and Crank sensors are a common failure item for Nissans of that era. Nissan actually redesigned the sensor and i think they performed a recall on some vehicles. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. I believe they run about $40 each. Because most people don't have access to a powerful scanner or a digital storage oscilloscope to verify the failure I recommend replacing the cam and crank sensors at the same time.
Posted on Sep 02, 2010
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