Question about 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt LS
I have had this car for less than 6 months and it has had many problems. My newest problem is that the car is shifting hard, it seems that when its cold outside the car with shift very roughly (it jerks) until about 4th gear, but after a long while of driving, like when I go to town or something and I do a lot of starting and stopping and turning the car off and on it doesnt do it anymore. It also jerks when you go from reverse (when your backing up) to drive. It makes it feel like you hit something solid and came to a dead stop. I have had the oil changed, it was long past due. And I had the trasmission fluid checked a while and back and the mechanic said it was fine. We have put a lot of money is this car as it has almost 180,000 miles. I have not done anything to the car, when it comes to running over anything, hitting anything, or anything of the sort, it hasnt happened and I do no know what the problem is.. Suggestions? The car also had a code that popped up a long time back that just came on the other day but then went away again, I managed to have it read before it did. But its a MAP sensor. Manifold Air Pressure sensor. Could that be causing the car to have shifting problems?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
a chevy mechanic suspected shift cable was worn or damaged...mine will sometimes engage..and then wont engage at all even tho shifter moves freely....
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
SOURCE: 2004 chevy impala jerks when
Based on your info, start with changing the fluid (completely) & filter. That's a long time to go without a change & if it is acting up, you're not going to hurt it by changing fluid.
Now some mech's will tell you that new fluid can cause it to quit working if it hasn't been changed in too long. I have changed countless filters & fluid, have changed automatic trans clutches myself & the O rings, and cant verify that as the truth, I suspect it's more than likely coincidence, after all, most of them changed the fluid & filter to try & fix a problem if you get what I mean.
Of course the least expensive route will be the flush & fill, you really need a good complete change though including torque converter drained & hopefully you'll find the filter restricted & the new one will help. If you do it yourself, clean the pan well & note what is actually wearing by looking at the particles left in the pan. Should be some gray gunk but not too much, which is a combination of small metal particles & contaminants from clutch wear.
I'm not betting on it fixing your problem, just in your corner hoping it does & saves you trans repair.
Posted on Feb 11, 2010
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