My corsa has been hit at 70 miles an hour on the rear right hand side,it span 180 degrees and ended up on the hard shoulder of the m271,the rear axle is now broken,i want to know,roughly,how much this is going to cost me

2400 a 2500? seems so.
find a real ASE shop, and win.
yes clunks never just go away, they get worse as the wear accelerates..(like slugging wall hard each day hurts more )
due to velocity is faster for more wear (traveled, and goes worse FASTer) aka as doomed, wise is not going to far like this.

REAR: 101:" I use an electronic stethoscope to find mine.
rear clunks,. I've had them all in 60 years driving! you name it.bing.
no miles on truck told mine was 2004 1500(5speed m/t)
I used to restore 4wd cars as 2nd job. (for years) I am a gear head.
I had 4 bay shop on my property. upto 2009

• bad U-joints !
• bad brakes rear.
• bad emg, brakes top hats bat, gee.
• bad axle bearing , I just fixed, 5 years ago.

the microphone (my tool) clamped to axle 3 places, 4 channels mic.
left rear , center and right rear
the right is 10x louder.
so I , remove the whole real brake assembly. and bingo bad brakes seen. or in 2nd case all that is good but if I man handle the axle end with my trusty lever (crow bar) I SEE ILLEGALL play in the AXLE bearing it 3 planes, in and out and up and down and forward read.
I also man handle THe Ujoint, no play at all allowed L/R/Top down
or other suspension parts bad in rear
a real ASE shop levels all that in and find excessive play or even makes the noise doing so.
I can drive or buddy does and my head phones on and 4 channel knob, and can hear the noise. them move mics to hone in to loudest spot. this method avoids injury. finding any noise on a moving car
did you do the safe jump on bumber test, left and right rear.
trucks are easy.
real bumper pickup truck 2500 I guess.
jump it hard even 2 mean or one fat LOL. hard
CLUNK>?or push hard hands on one side of rear fleet side. rear. end. and see if transverse bar CLUNKS.
or take car to a body shop that does body and suspension work
and watch the magic tests. the first. lots or what is called man handing and levering and visual inspections first. and brakes too. rear.
and the drive shaft (aka prop shaft)
there are even youtube showing how to lever parts even with a 2by4
to find parts bad, easy. in suspension or the drive shaft.
on stands or lifts./

NOISE is complex topic and noise can be telegraphed.
fooling even the best techs. anyone..

I dont know whar kind of vehicle or how many miles on it but if its rear wheel drive you can replace either. the rear end will cost more than an axle but if it has alot of miles on it plus you dont know about the rest of the componenents inside do the whole thing

Ron, if you are talking about the nut on the end of the hub, it goes as follows. Tighten to 70 lbs-ft, then back nut off 90 degrees, check for side to side end play. Tighten until end play is 0, up to an additional 20 lb-in.
Hope that helps, it is right out of Ford workshop manual.
I am a Ford dealer service manager. K.Martin

THE LEAK is an axle seal leaking the noise is bearings in rear end could be axle bearing of carrier/pinion bearings while driving shift weight of truck side to side see if noise changes if so it is axle bearing if not then most likely differential bearings

It should just slide off if the caliper and carrier are off. Try hitting the sides of the "hat" (the center section where the lug bolt holes are) with a hammer - it's probably just seized. When you reassemble everything, be sure that end axle bolt gets proper torque (140 ft-lbs plus a 180-degree turn).

You may have incorrect axle end play. The left axle is fitted with a 1mm shim and an o-ring between the bearing housing and diff flange. The right bearing housing should be shimmed to suit specs. If the right axle has too much end play, it may try to walk.

Ouch. It sounds like truck was overloaded with too much weight by previous owner.
Time to go to scrap yard and pick up a used rear axle assembly. Take it apart and check it for cracks before you reinstall it.

Wheel was knocked off? Front or rear?
Most definitely will be a wheel bearing involved.
The parts if it is just a rear bearing should be under $50 , Under $70 for the front, and do check the rotors and calipers and brake pads, that is a good hit . If you feel the need to change any brake parts, always change that part on both sides.

Remove the drums and check your rear brakes. If okay, you may try testing a couple different tires in the rear. Belts separating and flat spots show worse at higher speeds.
It could be bearings if truck is used alot while loaded. Remember 1/4 ton is only 500lbs. High miles, hard driving, or if it was wrecked in rear could all cause these smptoms.