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Re: Audi A4 2.5 TDi 2003 Quattro - Glowplugs not getting...
There is a relay which will make a `clunk` noise under the bonnet. It can be heard a few seconds after the glow plug light on your dashboard goes out. I would suggest that this is the problem. You may have to buy a new one. Very easy to do. Quite cheap as well.
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You can get a wiring diagram free at Autozone.com for most cars. You need to register on the site free and then scroll to the bottom of the Web page.
There may be a reference to how the Glowplugs are wired and it is possible that they are wired as pairs from the Timer box. This would mean that 1/2 the Timer box is shorted out or that a Relay that controls just that pair of glowplugs is a bad Relay. If there are 2 Relays for the Glowplugs, just swap them and see if the problem moves to a new pair of cylinders. This would confirm a bad Relay.
You may also have a bad ground. Look to see the wiring for the ground circuit. This would be a good bet if each pair is separately grounded. You could also have a problem with not replacing all 4 as a set. I do not know what VW recommends for this.
Perhaps you should test the Glowplugs. You test them by fixing a battery jumper clamp to the bottom of the casing of the Glowplug avoiding the threads. Then briefly touch the top of the Glowplug with the power cable of the Plus charge. Be careful not to melt the part.
The Glowplug should glow equally between the set. They should not stay dark. And remember, the Timer only has seconds to work. That is all the time the Glowplugs have to vaporize the fuel.
This is not to hard to solve. The outside airtemp determines how long the Glowplug timer works for absolute cold starts. Starting a warm engine is affected by underhood temps.
The Timer Relay will pulse power to the glowplugs. If the glowplugs are good, it is enough to preheat the cylinder for firing.
To tell if a glowplug is good is a matter of comparision between a new glowplug and a worn glowplug. YOU CAN MELT A GLOWPLUG WITH THIS TEST, but you remove the glowplugs, get a set of battery jumper cables and place one jumper to the base of the glowplug USING CARE not to ruin the threads on the glowplug.
You do not want to arc the spark on the glowplug threads. You want your fixed jumper connector locked on the base of the glowplug. The other battery cable jumper is touched to the top of the glowplug where the arcing occurs. This will not hurt the contact point if done properly.
You compare the "glow" of the old glowplug to the "glow" of the new glowplug. Bad glowplugs stay dark or operate at a darker color.
The Timer Relay gives you pulses and that is all the glowplugs get to heat up. This is what you simulate in your test. If a glowplug operates in a dull or dark condition, it is bad and throw it away. You want all glowplugs to readily light up when power is applied.
The other 2 parts to the system are the Timer Relay and the Power Relay. The timer gets its power from the Power Relay and the Power Relay is like a starter solenoid. The Power relay gets a tickler charge when the keyswitch is held to Start.
There are sometimes extreme cold Timers that hold the power longer tothe glowplugs. I do not have the Specs to tell you if your Timer is kicking out to soon.
I hope my solution helps. I have told you how to test your glowplugs. The timers are affected by air temperature and that makes it difficult to say if it is working long enough. If you know the glowplugs are good, and the timer shuts off before the glowplugs heat up, then you need a new or different type of timer.
If this is a Diesel engine, the glowplugs would be in a position like a sparkplug. You can replace them as you wish, or replace only the bad one. To determine if a glowplug is bad, you would remove it as you do a sparkplug on a gas engine.
With several of the glowplugs removed, you would place a battery jumper cable on one end of the glowplug, while being careful not to damage its threads. That cable would be connected to the NEG battery cable. The remaining cable would be placed on the Positive(+) terminal of the battery and then you would briefly tough the POS cable to the top of the glowplug.
Do this briefly. You can melt the part. But you need to see if the glowplug will glow. Often the problem with glowplugs is the Timer box. This is the box from where the wires come from to go to the glowplugs.
If you have a glowplug staying dark, or failing to glow well, then it is a bad glowplug. Each should glow the same. That is why you check several at a time to tell what is normal.
I work on Ford diesels and do not know what plastic covers you may have. So just follow the wires that are not on the fuel injectors and that is all you can possibly do.
Hello, The diesel engine relies on Glowplugs for the first start in the Morning or a cold start at anytime.
The Glowplugs themselves can be bad, but there is a Timer which determines how long the Glowplugs will stay on. Before the Timer is a Glowplug Relay which gives the Timer its power to operate. The Ignition switch provides power to the Glowplug Relay.
You disconnect a Glowplug wire, put on a test instrument (either a testlight or Voltmeter) and look to see what happens when you initiate a start. If the testlight lights and cycles a few times like a pulse, then the power supply is good. If not inspect the Timer and Glowplug Relay for continuity
If all the pulses seem to reach the Glowplugs, then most likely the Glowplugs are worn out. Test by removing then and connecting battery jumpers. Briefly touch the top terminal of the Glowplug with the Hot cable after grounding the negative cable on the base of the Glowplug, avoiding the threads.
You can melt a Glowplug. But if you find the Glowplug staying dark, then it is bad. Do this for all the Glowplugs and replace the bad ones. Remember the Glowplug only has the amount of time the Timer gives it to work. So if a few pulses do not make it Glow, then replace it. This should fix you up.
Hello, Its just like changing sparkplugs. First, you should check the timer for proper operation before blaming the glowplugs. The timer is the part where the wires on the glowplugs come from. Its' the Timers job to heat up the glowplugs and there is a Relay which activates the timer.
Once the Timer gets power from the Relay, it sends spark to the glowplugs and measures the amount of juice flowing through the glowplugs. When a predetermined limit is achieved, the Timer shuts down and sets a light on the dashboard that you can start the engine.
If you have a bad glowplug, that cylinder will not fire cold and the engine will miss, run rough , and spew black smoke out the tailpipe. A complete changeout of the glowplugs will solve the problem, but individual glowplugs can be tested and changed independently at a lower cost.
To test a glowplug, you can use jumper cables and apply voltage to the glowplug in limited amounts or you will melt the glowplug. Best to place the negative on the base and avoid the threads. Then touch the top of the glowplug and watch to see how quick it turns bright. Its a matter of comparison, and the darker the glowplug stays, the worse it is.
There is no adjustment on the glowplug, just swap them out and you will be fine. I hope my solution is very helpful to you. You can check the Timer with a voltmeter by removing a glowplug wire and hooking the hot lead from your meter and grounding the other wire on your engine. When you turn the key to the warmup position, the meter should briefly show power.
Its either one of 2 things. A shorted glowplug is backfeeding and shutting off the timer or the timer is bad. You should start by removing the glowplugs and testing them.
The glowplugs can melt with this test so don't overdo it. Use a set of battery jumper cables and put the NEG on the metal case without damaging the threads. Then take the POS cable and touch the top of the glowplug. Its a matter of comparision. A dark glowplug is cold or dead. When you get a good one you will see an intense glow. Replace the bad ones.
After reinstalling the glowplugs try starting your car. If it still does not work well trace all of the glowplug wires up to a timer box. There should be a Power source going into the Timer. Measure the Voltage going to the Timer. If it is less than Battery Voltage follow the Power wire to a Relay. The Relay may be in the blackbox full of Relays under the hood or independently hung next to the Timer. Sometimes thoughtful Engineers put labels under the lid for each component. Check the plugin sockets for corrosion or replace the Relay for the glowplug Timer.
If you had battery Voltage at the Timer most likely the Timer is bad. The Timer should keep your glowplugs on longer the colder the outside temperature is. The exception is a warm engine. Good luck on your repair. I hope you find my solution very helpful.
Hello, there are several things as likely to cause this problem, either spark or fuel.
The glowplugs are needed to make a Cold engine start. You can take a testlight to the glowplug wire of several cylinders and it should light when the engine is put to the Run position. The glowplugs get their power from a Coldstart Timer and it may have an additional relay.
The Coldstart Timer is the part which clicks and makes the lights dim when it is cycling. It also controls the dash indicator and makes the dash light work when the glowplugs are ready. The timer changes the amount of time it cycles according to outside and engine temperature. If you have noticed the "Ready" light vary its timing, the timer is working.
Say you have no spark at the glowplug wire, work backwards to the Coldstart timer and see if it is getting power. Power in, none out, bad timer. No power in, work backwards for a Relay or fuse.
Now if you have power at the glowplug, remove several and test them with Battery jumper cables. Put the NEG on the base and touch the POS to the stem. You can melt them if you overdo it. The longer it takes for the glowplug to glow, the worse it is. Once you find a good glower all tests are relative to the good one.
Fuel problem. If the glowplugs test out, check the fuel. Long start times can mean the fuel drained back to the tank and has to be pulled all the way up front. You can unscrew your fuel filter and see if it is topped off or empty. Then you need to test the lines from the fuel filter back.
It is also possible an internal Solenoid in the Injector pump is sticking. A light tap before starting can indicate this problem if it starts better after tapping the pump.
Thats about it. I hope you find my Solution useful.
It sounds like the "Timer" for the glowplugs, but you may want to prime the Fuelfilter to provide a draw for the fuel. One of the problems is you lost the fuel in the lines as soon as the fuelpump was disconnected.
If you installed the fuelpump because of a "NO start" condition it may have been the Glowplug timer all along. You may have taken a wire loose for the Timer or broken a wire. The Timer box needs feedback from the Glowplugs.
Disconnect one of the Glowpug wires and put in a test light to the wire. Observe when you put the engine in RUN position if the Testlight will light up. If the Testlight does not light, you are not getting power to the Glowplugs.
Diesels need Glowplugs only for starting. After that, the compression operates the engine. The Timer for the Glowplugs regulates how long the Glowplugs work each cycle. You may have to test the Glowplugs if they get power but do not work.
Each Glowplug is like a sparkplug. You would need to pull them and connect 12 Volts to each. Use a jumper cable and do not touch the threads. Use power sparingly or you can melt them. But 1 by 1 you can see a difference in a bad or good glowplug by how each gets hot.
Do mean you have hard time communicating with a scanner at the OBDII connector, if so make sure you power at pin16 at diagnostic connector, also we have seen issue with glowplugs not working properly causing hard start when cold and starts fine after warm-up
You can check for glowplugs operation at initial key-of before cranking by checking for voltage at each glowplug connector with a multimeter.
If the smoke is white smoke and you have it after it has run for a while or when you stop at a stop sign or light it is one of two things or possibly both. I have a 2003 GMC 3500 that had the same proble. It turned out to be a combination of Injector being bad and Glowplugs. Injectors are covered up to 200,000 miles but not the glowplugs. I bought 4 glowplugs of the internet for 10.49 a piece AC Delco New. The dealer replaced all 8 injectors and 8 glowplugs. I paind for 4 GP's and the installation 213.00. Truck has more power and NO white smoke you might need to take it to the dealer. The test for the injectors is about 85.00 but well worth the expense