The original bearing broke and caused a bit of damage inside the hub, unable to see how the new kit is suppose to connect? Have you got any directions to fit a wheel bearing on an old Ford Falcon 1965?
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Re: Rear wheel bearing disk brakes
Take the axle out, cut off the bearing, and press on a new one after cleaning up with emmery and oil( remove contaminates) install outer bearing sleeve into hub, relock attaching bracket, insertoil into dif, all done.
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Bushings on the rear hub of a CB200 motorcycle? If so you will most likely need to place motorcycle on centerstand and remove the rear axle and brake connecting assemblies. I don't recall them having bushings, but rather bearings (inside hub) and wheel spacers on outside of hub on one side and outside brake assembly on opposite side. If the bearings are worn out, retrieve replacements and also a blind bearing puller set to remove the bearings. Before removal of the old bearings, toss the new ones in the freezer as this will cause the metal to shrink (although slight) this will make installations of new ones easier. A shop press can be a handy tool for inserting new ones, but can also be done in a vice after carefully starting them with a rubber mallet. Careful not to damage the seals as these are fragile and new bearings won't last long if these get damaged. If it is the spacers, best best is to replace them with original replacements from the manufacturer.
Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way
it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the
wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly,
thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage
the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft
nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin
the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off
the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin
freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32
(or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn
freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and
forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little
little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the
wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.
If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends
around the axle nut.----
coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic
hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel
bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.
I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All
the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total
hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel
steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.
Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it
has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing
bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your
replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison
You have a faulty wheel brake and it is best to jack up the the rear right wheel to manually check the free movement to confirm. It is possible that the brake assembly hardware has come off and is struck to be caught up in the reverse direction. Also a faulty shoe which has come off, a worn out bearing/hub can also be the fault. You observation after removing this RR assembly will confirm.
Let me guess, you have a superduty that has a lift kit and big wheels and tires on the stock hubs. This is a no no. When the bigger wheels and tires are installed, there is an offset that moves the wheels out away from the truck. This puts a lot of stress on the hub assembly. I saw a kit for this on tv the other day. I think it's made by raybestos. It converts the truck over to the older style spindle and hub assembly. This will allow you to service the bearings. But the main advantage is that you won't be going through bearings. Just look around online and see if you can find anything about this.
Disconnect the vehicle battery ground lead. Support the vehicle at the front and remove the appropriate wheel. Remove brake caliper and disc assemblies see SRO 70 10 Note- Do not allow the caliper to hang by either harness or flexible hose.
Pry off the hub grease cap Remove and discard cotter pin pull off castellated nut retainer Remove the hub nut and bearing washer. Carefully remove the hub assembly from the stub axle.
Pry the original seal from the spigot and discard. remove the bearings and using a drift punch knock out the bearing cups. Remove all traces of grease and dirt from the stub axle and back plate. Note: the backing plate may be used to pull the inner bearing and seal if they stay on the stub shaft. Press in the new bearing cups using a socket or other tool of the correct size to prevent damaging the new bearing cup or hub. Note: Do not use bearing to press in the cup. Pack the annular gaps of the oil seal lips with grease. Wash the hub assembly thoroughly. Ensure that the hub inner seal diameter is free of debris or damage and is lightly lubricated prior to assembly. Only replace complete bearings, never cup or race in isolation. Pack each race with approximately 4 ml of grease and position the inner race onto the stub axle. Apply a smear of grease to hub inner surfaces and bearing cups. Assemble the hub to the stub axle followed by outer race, bearing washer and hub nut. It is not necessary to fill the hub cavity with grease, merely protect from corrosion with a coat of lubricant. Seat the bearings by slightly tightening the hub nut whilst rotating the hub. Do not apply load without rotation.
Adjust End float. Set a Dial Test Indicator and adjust the hub nut to achieve the correct end float. .001-.003" As the adjustment is made, continually load the hub axially in both directions. Without disturbing the end float setting, fit the castellated nut retainer so that it aligns with both hub nut and stub axle drilling. Secure nut retainer using a new cotter pin.
Reassemble brake rotor and caliper. Bolts MUST be tightened to specification operation of the braking system verified. Reassemble wheel
I am not sure what originally failed on your car, but sometimes installation problems can cause the hub bearing to fail . The number one problem is over tightening the axle nut. A vehicle that has frame damage or severely out of alignment can cause excess pressure on the bearing assembly and wear it out too.
If you use a hammer to drive the broken stud out you can cause damage to the bearing.
If you use a wheel stud press, the hub bearing will not be affected. The press will remove the old stud and install the new one.