Question about Hyundai Motor 2002 Elantra
Installed new battery, installed new alternator still having same issues.
Never disconnect a battery with the engine running or when key is on. You can cause a spark (even on the negative) which can cause a battery explosion, and/or you can easily fry the fragile computerized electronics if a power surge were to occur.
That being said, what you did was prove that the new alternator is not putting out any current. Check all your fuses in the power distribution box. Also, a loose or poor connection on the battery or alternator may be the problem. Check that your battery cables still appear in good shape. Check the ground for the battery, and all the engine grounds you can see. Possibly one or more of the maxi-fuses in the distribution box may have blown.
Don't try jumpstarting the car. Take the battery off and have it fully charged up. Then you can resume checking for why the alternator is not working. Good luck.
Posted on Jan 03, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Very possibly damaged the alternator; these have six diodes that rectify the ac produced by the alternator (hence its name) and are oriented to produce a positive output/negative ground.
This means that they will conduct if their output has a relative negative voltage applied to the positive output terminal.
If you haven't done it already, you need to disconnect the battery cable or the shorted diodes will drain it completely again and could even damage the plates from heat.
Generally, rebuilt alternators are quite reliable so replacing with new isn't really justifiable; the commutators and windings are not stressed hard so replacing brushes and diodes and a good (chemical) bath are about all they need to do to restore them. You may even have a local shop that will restore your own unit if you wish.
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
I don't know if your car has an integrated regulator or not; some house the regulator in a section of the alternator case, others mount it remote from it.
The regulator monitors the load and battery voltag,e primitively but effectively, and controls the current flowing through the field winding of the alternator to ground, changing the magnetic field intensity and consequently the voltage output of the alternator.
The 'hot' end of the field is internally connected to the + output, the 'cold' end is controlled by a transistor inside the regulator which, in turn, is controlled by circuitry monitoring the system voltage.
Some alternators can be tested by sticking a wire through a specified opening, actually shorting the controlled end of the field to ground briefly, while monitoring the voltage across the battery, doing this though for seconds only.
This essentially bypasses a suspected defective regulator; this causes the output voltage to rise instantly to its maximum of ~17 volts if the alternator is OK.
I don't recommend poking a wire at random into an available opening so having a service manual (Haynes-Chilton) would be nearly mandatory.
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
there are a few small wires on the alternator and one is a feedback for the alternator to switch on and charge the battery.there is a fusable link which looks like a piece of wire,but it is a fuse and if your alternator was blown,or a jump start was done wrong,it could take out the fuselink and your alternator is not putting out voltage.get a diagram and check to make sure that all the voltages for feedback are ok
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
that sounds like your battery... do you have an alarm or amplifire not running off your accessories? or could be a faulty battery
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
I am having the same problem with my 2004 Elantra. I have had the alternator tested twice and did replace the battery. This morning I had it running ad put a volt meter on it ( red to the battery pos black to the engine block) I did get a reading of 14 volts for about 30 seconds then the idle lowered and the voltage dropped to 12 volts. I tried this again later but could not get a voltage reading above 12 volts with the motor running. Any suggestions?
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 16, 2013 | 1997 Cadillac DeVille
Oct 02, 2012 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks
Jul 18, 2011 | 2003 Ford E150
Oct 31, 2010 | 2002 Lincoln LS
Apr 24, 2010 | 1996 Audi A6
Dec 23, 2009 | 1993 Ford Escort 4 Door
Dec 09, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Corolla
Nov 29, 2009 | 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse
Jun 09, 2009 | 2000 Saturn SC
Apr 08, 2009 | 1989 Toyota Celica Liftback
161 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: