When i back off the throttle at about 80 and apply it again it feels like its goin to stall and its idlin really low and has stalled twice it is an auto it has been on the computer and says it has lowvoltage on the tps and when i'm holdin a speed the rev needle moves up and down a bit and its like missin a bit
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Since you have replaced almost all of the parts, maybe the problem is in the wires. I would check for shorting and continuity on the tps harness. The wot signal is getting thru, but there may be issues in between idle and wot. The tps signal is on the dark blue wire. Set your meter to volts DC and measure the voltage on that wire bank-probing the connector wile some turns the key on and slowly pushes the throttle down. Do you see a gradual increase or does it stay flat and then jump? Check for the reference voltage on the other terminals. Also check the same wire voltages at the computer connector. Do they match?
Have you consider to check the battery power. I believe the main problem you have is either the battery or the alternator. Due to these two things with low voltage the brain ( ECU ) does not have the enough power to work. Good Luck.
Have you had it to a shop that has a professional type scan tool that can view engine sensor data parameters ? Do you know what those are ? Idle air control counts , mass air flow sensor data , MAP sensor , TPS - throttle position sensor , crankshaft position sensors , Cam sensors , engine coolant temp , intake air temp etc......
"TPS" is your throttle position sensor located on the right side of your throttle body (if you are facing your engine) the function of the tps is to send imput to your pcm (power control module) by the movement of the throttle plate at idle/part throttle/wide open. the pcm will adjust air/fuel mix/egr functio/timing of spark based on tps imput by way of voltage signals. you can check for a bad tps sensor by using a voltmeter and back probing the tps connector. there are 3 wires with the connector tange facing up, the 3 wires are sensor ground (the wire closest to you) the middle wire is the sensor signal wire and the wire furthest away from you is the 5v supply wire. turn ign key to "on" (do not start engine) voltage should be between 0.2-1.4v with probes still inserted into the plug, slowly turn throttle pulley toward wide open throttle, youe readings should slowly rise to about 4.5v - IF NO VOLTAGE PRESENT- check wiring harness for supply voltage (around 5v) ground (0.3v) if both supply voltage and ground voltage present AND no output voltage tps FAULTY TPS. remove/replace tps. if voltage values exist, but are less than what they should be, look for problem with wiring harness, or bad pcm. my other thoughts are partially plugged fuel filter/pressure sensor, or a vacuum leak gremlin somewhere.
First of all don't go looking for a distributor cause that car does not have one. It has a coilpack that is triggered by the ignition module wich sits underneath the coilpack on the front of the engine on the right side with all the plug wires goin to it. mcmuff- this is a D.I.S. system. That means: Distributorless Ignition Sytem.
It is really hard to check the module cause unless you work for the dealer like i did back then, you can't get the test perameters you need. the primary voltage from the module is arround 1100 volts.The secondary voltage from the coil is 30,000 so be carefull!!
My guess is a bad crank sensor wich like mcmuff is thinking , is vonerable to heat soaking like a module or coil in a conventional distributor system. It is not easy to test these either. Its dangerous but the best way of checking the crank sensor is to tap it with a long (24") screwdriver. tap it rapidly but not so hard you move it in it's bracket. If the car stalls or stumbles it is the crank sensor. The crank sensor tells the pcm and module when to fire the injectors and plugs with some help from the cam sensor to synchronize them. The cam sensor WILL NOT make the car stall if it goes bad.
I'll keep an eye out for ya for any more questions if ya need.Good luck........Scott