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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
first check the rubber hose leading to the hubs for cracks.There is also a vacuum switch that might have gone bad, just follow rubber hose back up to switch. You may also want to take the hubs off and clean them it doesn't take much gunk to foul them up. Hub bolts are 10mm, pretty easy removal .autopartspeople.com has the switch cheaper than the regular dealers. If nothing else works you can buy manual lockouts for this
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
a quick fix to solve the problem with the 4wd not working on the sportage is fitst check the vacume soionoid is working lockated by the suspention turet on theL/H side of the engine bay, then, chech hoses going to the hub, if there is still a vacume leek from the hub remove the 6 bolts from the outer hub locker place in vice remove the circlip, remove the spring, remove the spline gear then take the spring and swap it around so that it gose under the gear so that it is in conatant mesh/ lock, build back up and fit, it means the front axle will be live all the time but you will still be able to select 2 /4wd,,
Posted on Dec 30, 2010
SOURCE: 1993 Blazer full size.. 4wd
Do you hear the Transfer case move to four low when you select it? Do you have vacuum to the vacuum control valve that is on the case and the lines that lock the hubs of the front wheels? Please don't guess, check this.
Posted on Jan 27, 2011
If the switch was in the 2WD position and the transfer case was locked in a 4WD range, my 2 SWAGs would be bad switch or the connector to the shift motor is damaged / corroded or the fuse to the transfer case shift relay module is blown ( fuse # 17 ) / problem with the transfer case shift relay module.
This is without knowing if the truck was used in 4WD the night prior, and shifted out just before turning off. If this is the case, the shift motor might be stuck, and a few hits with a dead blow hammer to the transfer case might jar it free again ( do not use a metal hammer, it could damage the transfer case ).
The vacuum shift solenoids on the firewall are controlled by the GEM ( Generic Electronic Module ) which is grounding either the 2WD or 4WD solenoid, depending on the shift plate contacts in the transfer case. ( when in 4 or 4H, the contact switch plate signals the GEM, which in turn grounds the correct solenoid ).
Pulling the switch will not cause the transfer case to go back to a default position, the switch has a resistance level for each mode, and needs that value to operate the shift motor.
The resistance values for the switch between the 2 dark blue wires:
2WD - 4100 to 3700 ohms
4H - 1050 to 1150 ohms
4L - 380 to 340 ohms
- find the wire locations on the switch, mark them and remove the connector to test the resistance.
Just my opinion on the order :
1. Check the fuses for the shift motor
2. Try the old school shift method, back up ~ 50' put into park or neutral, and shift from 4WD to 2WD.
2.1. This is to see if the transfer case shift motor is bound up, and reversing might release it
3. Try hammering the transfer case with a dead blow hammer while someone shifts from 2WD to 4WD. You only need the key in the run position, if it happens quick enough after running the engine, the vacuum reservoir will still have enough vac to operate the solenoids. Don't chance running yourself over.
3.1. If this frees up the shift motor and the vacuum has bled off, you can try starting the truck and shifting into 4H then back to 2WD to get the front axle to disconnect or manually vacuum operate the front disconnect motor by applying vacuum to the pink vacuum line on the shift motor on the front axle.
Posted on Mar 20, 2011
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