Question about 2007 Mazda MPV
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The above link is to a diagram of your ALDL connector, all you need is a paper clip, straighten out the paper clip and insert one end into the diagnostic test pin and one in the system ground pin (terminals A & B).
Then put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position but DO NOT start the engine. You will then see the check engine light flash. It will initially start by flashing once, then a pause and then flash twice and it will repeat this three times. That flash sequence indicates 12, which just means the system is operating. Its the flash sequences after that that will give you the code if any are stored.
For instance if it flashes twice, then pauses, then flashes four times, thats code 24. So any flash sequence you get after the initial 12 (flash once, pause, flash twice) you need write those down. Below is a list of diagnostic codes to tell you what the codes mean.
1 flash, pause, 2 flashes
Diagnostic: This Code will flash whenever the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the ignition switch turned on and the engine is not running.
1 flash, pause 3 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage stays between 0.35 and 0.55 volts for 30 seconds when the TPS signal was above 0.55 volts. The engine had been running for at least 40 seconds with an engine temperature above 110° F.
1 flash, pause, 4 flashes
Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature of over 284° F for 4 seconds after the engine had been running for at least 10 secondsCoolant Sensor Circuit (high temperature) If the engine is experiencing overheating problems, have those fixed before continuing. Check all wiring and connectors associated with the coolant temperature sensor. Replace the Coolant temperature sensor.
1 flash, pause, 5 flashes
Coolant Sensor Circuit (low temperature) Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -36° F for at least 4 seconds after the engine had been running for 2 seconds. See above, then check wiring connections at the ECM
1 flash, pause, 6 flashes
Charging system voltage was either below 9 volts or above 17 volts for 10 seconds. System High Voltage If the voltage is above 17.1 volts for more than 2 seconds, the Service Engine Soon light will illuminate. Have the charging system checked.
1 flash, pause, 7 flashes
PCM did not detect any spark reference pulses within 240 fuel control reference pulses (80 crank revolutions) while engine was running below 1200 RPM. Spark Reference Circuit.
2 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Throttle Position Sensor, TPS voltage was above 0.8 volts for 5 seconds when engine was running and air flow was less than 15 gm/sec, or the TPS voltage was over 4.8 volts at any time.
2 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
Throttle Position Sensor check TPS adjustment. Replace the TPS sensor. TPS voltage was under 0.2 volts for 4 seconds when the ignition was on. Check for a sticking, or mis-adjusted throttle position sensor.
2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of -29° F for 4 seconds. Manifold Air Temperature. Check the MAT sensor, wiring, and connectors for a possible open circuit. replace the MAT sensor.
2 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Vehicle speed sensor signal showed less than 3 MPH for 2 seconds when engine speed was greater than 3000 RPM and transmission has not been in park or neutral for more than 4 seconds. Or vehicle speed goes from above 18 MPH to 0 in less than 2 seconds without applying brake. This code can only appear when the vehicle is in motion, if it appears when the car is not in motion, ignore it. Check ECM connections, any other problems should be diagnosed by a qualified mechanic.
2 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of over 218° F for 5 seconds when vehicle speed was greater than 35 MPH. Check the voltage between the MAT sensor and the ECM. voltage should be above 4 volts.
2 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Quad-Driver sense voltage shows a low voltage when battery voltage should be present, or if the sense voltage shows battery voltage when a low voltage should be present for at least 5 seconds when the engine was running. Have the car checked by a dealer.
2 flashes, pause, 7 flashes
2nd gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 2nd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started. Gear switch Diagnosis Have the car checked by a dealer.
2 flashes, pause, 8 flashes
3rd gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 3rd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.
2 flashes, pause, 9 flashes
4th gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.
3 flashes, pause, 1 flash
PRNDL indicates a gear other than park or neutral for 13 seconds for 3 consecutive startups when ignition was on, engine was off and vehicle speed was 0. Or the PRNDL status indicators (A, B, C, P) showed an incorrect combination of Lo and Hi for more than 10 seconds.
Check all connectors, and for a faulty switch.
3 flashes, pause 2 flashes
EGR System Check vacuum hoses and connections for leaks and restrictions. Replace the EGR solenoid or valve.
3 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
MAF Sensor Have the mass air flow sensor replaced.
3 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
There was no MAF signal for over 4 seconds while engine was running. Check for loose or damaged air duct, misadjusted minimum idle speed and cacuum leaks. Inspect the MAF sensor and the electrical connections.
3 flashes, pause, 8 flashes
The Torque Converter Clutch portion of the brake switch was open and caused the TCC to be inoperative, adjust OR replace switch.
3 flashes, pause, 9 flashes
Torque Converter Clutch Check ECM connections, check for faulty Torque Conver Clutch solenoid.
3 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Cam sensor signal was not received by PCM for the last 5 seconds while engine was running. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty cam sensor. Maybe also indicate a problem with the vehicle's timing chain.
4 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
The Electronic Spark Timing (EST) signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty ignition module.
4 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Knock sensor signal was either above 3.5 volts or below 1.5 volts for at least 20 seconds. Check for a faulty knock sensor, or Mem-Cal.
4 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage was under 0.25 volts for up to 4 1/2 minutes of closed loop operation, lean exhaust. Check the ECM wiring connections. Check for vacuum leaks at the hoses and intake manifold gasket.
4 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage was over 0.75 volts for 2 minutes in closed loop operation with a throttle angle between 0.6 and 1.9 volts. Rich exhaust. Check the evaporative charcoal canister and its components for the presence of fuel.
4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Power Steering pressure switch Check for faulty connections, or a faulty switch.
4 flashes, pause 8 flashes
Misfire Diagnosis. Check the ignition and fuel systems.
5 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Prom or Mem-Cal Make sure the MEM-Cal or prom is properly installed in the ECM. Replace Mem-Cal or prom.
5 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
Cal-Pak Check the Cal-Pak to insure properation. replace the Cal-Pak.
5 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
EGR #2 solenoid was out of range for 6 of 8 tests. 55 EGR #3 solenoid was out of range for 3 of 5 tests.
5 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
ECM Check for faulty connections. Replace the ECM.
5 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Quad-driver voltage was incorrect for 5 seconds on the circuit connected to QDM "B".
5 flashes, pause, 7 flashes
Boost control solenoid did not open bypass valve causing engine torque to be too high.
6 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
EGR flow was incorrect. EGR solenoid did not work properly. Have vehicle serviced by a dealer.
6 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Same as Code 63 EGR flow was incorrect. EGR solenoid did not work properly.
6 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Same as Code 63.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
The Tail Lights Are Accessed From The Inside Of The Trunk There Will Either Be A Panel Immediately Behind Where The Light Is Or Carpet. Remove It And It Will Give You Access To The Rear Of The Bolts Just Grab Twist And Pull And The Light Will Come Out.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
You need to remove the whole taillight assembly. Open the trunk, and you'll see the plastic covering the lower rear part of the trunk, including up and around where the taillights are. On each side, there are two plastic fasteners. Just use your fingernail, or something thin, and pop out the CENTER of the fastener. Don't pull hard, it just comes out about 1/8", do NOT remove the center entirely. Once you pull the center out a bit, the whole thing should pull out easily. Do this on both sides.
Now grab the middle section and while wiggling, pull it straight up. It's held with 4 push in clips that slide onto the plastic part. It's very snug, but it'll come out with some wiggling and pulling up.
Now you can pull the fabric covering the back of the trunk where the taillight is. Remove the 4 metric nuts, and the whole unit will be able to be pulled out. Be gentle, the wiring is still attached from within the trunk. I found it easier to work on if you push the connector/grommet inside the trunk through to the outside. It just pulls back easily when you're done.
Turn the fitting on the back of the taillight assembly counter clockwise about 1/8-1/4 turn and it comes out. Takes standard type bulb. After replace, before reinstalling, try the light. Reassemble in reverse order.
Put nuts on taillight assembly, snug up. I found I could loosen the nuts by just holding the socket in my fingers, so only tightened the same way, no wrench. Smooth the fabric from the sides of the trunk back in place over the taillight area. Take the plastic cover and note the 4 clips that hold it in place, as well as the round plastic that helps align it. Ensure the clips are correctly on the plastic, one of mine slid off and remained in the car/hole. I just used pliers to pull it straight out, then slid it in place on the plastic. Align the round pins in the metal of the trunk and push straight down in the 4 places the clips go.
Ensure the holes in the plastic, and fabric, line up with the hole in the metal on the sides by the taillight. Holding the plastic clips with the center slightly out, push them in, then push in the center and they'll hold.
Close trunk and re-test lights and you're done!
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
I found after about 30 minutes that it was necessary to remove the batter to give more access to the light. try the other bulb first to see how it goes in and out
Posted on Jan 14, 2010
SOURCE: how to replace brake light bulb?
If similar to 2002 MPV, you detach the whole side light module, then pop out the bulb-socket, then you can replace the bulb. You need a philips screwdriver, medium size. Open the back hatch. Remove the two screws on the inside edge of the light-assembly. Now pull the whole assembly *sideways* not back - it is held by two detent-pins that face out. You can swing it out a bit and then carefully lever it at top or bottom edge. Lower the assembly face-down, you can see three bulb-sockets. They can be turned a part-turn, I think counter-clockwise, then they pop out. Replace bulb(s), re-insert socket, push assembly back onto pins, replace screws. Just did this for brake/tail light 10 minutes ago.
Posted on Jan 28, 2010
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