I need to replace the connector behind the dash that the knob clicks into to slide between hot and cold on the heater control. How do I get to it? I've removed the radio, but seem to need to take more of the dash off.
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the air control heat knob needs removing to determine if its the knob itself, this will just pull off, look at reverse of knod and look to see if the center locating pigot is worn "round" or broken , if this looks ok then the panel housing the knob controls will need removing and then check if the heat control wire is in place, if so trace this wire ,this is a bare steel control wire not an electrical wire, to the heater box lower dash behind the control panel and see if you can manually move the heat control flap this will look like two toothed semi circular cogs that inter lock , one may have jumped out of place try a little vaseline on the cogs to help lubricate the movement,this is just good practice, after all this i think you will have found the problem
For clarification, it seems that you are getting air blown through the system but there is no temperature change, hot or cold?
Your heater control panel is cable operated with sliding knobs, not like the newer electronic controls with push buttons. It is a "mechanical" set up as opposed to an electrical situation.
Does the slider for the temperature control feel like it has tension and is moving mechanisms in the dash somewhere? If not, the cable, which has an "S" curve on the ends, may have slipped out of the arm either behind the heater control panel or at the AC box where the door is. Also, check the heater control valve on the firewall under the hood to see if the arm on the valve is moving properly when the temperature slider is moved.
When you push the "AC" button, do you hear fans under the hood/AC relays click on/idle drop? If not, you may have a separate AC issue, either very low or no freon. If the freon is just a little low, check the sight glass for the freon to see if you see bubbles when the AC comes on.
The heater control cable may have broke. you'll have to go under the hood and find the heater control valve located on one of the heater hoses. The valve is mounted to the firewall and has the other end of the cable attached to an arm. Manualy open the valve by moving the arm toward the firewall untill it stops. The other issue is the blower motor only operating on low. Normally if the transistor fails the motor only operates on Hi, so lets look at the switch. Unplug the white 6-pin connector from the switch and with a jumper wire jump pins1&3 black wire & blue/black wire. This bypass the switch asuming there is 12volts on the blue/black wire the the fan motor will come on high. If it does the switch is bad. If it doesn't the blower motor is worn out or you have a bad ground. it is common that the brushes wear out in the motors over 150k. try this tap test. with the blower motor turned on try kicking the blower motor.this will cause the brushes in the motor to temporary make better contact untill you can get a new motor. -hope this helps
Does the heater blow cold air from the vents or do you mean the there is no airflow from the vents? cold air from the dash vents when the heater control valve is set fully hot could be an air pocket in the cooling system. The radiator sits slightly lower than the engine causing air pockets to get trapped in the engine when you replace the coolant. you'll have to purge the cooling system to restore flow to the heater core. No airflow (blower motor inop) this could be a bad blower motor transistor. pin test the blower motor circuit.
Has the car been regularly service including changing the engine coolant ?
If not, this maybe due to clogged heater valve, hoses, or the heater matrix (like a small radiator that sits behind the car dashboard).
If the coolant has been regularly changed, it is most likely that the heater control valve is faulty, or the cable that connects it to the heater control on the dash board is either faulty or disconnected.