Question about Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Generally when you remove the caliper assembly the rotor slides over the hub assembly. Since I have not done a brake job on this particular model, it may possibly be held in place by the hub nut. Remove the caliper assembly first in order to be sure. I could only find two diagrams for the brake assembly for the E320, neither one had the size of the nut or allan bolt. The easiest way to get the size is to measure from one flat area directly across to the other flat area this will give you the size for the socket and allan wrench needed. If in the US, keep in mind that this is in a metric measurement, so it will calculate to millimeters, which makes it much easier to measure than the American standard. Also, if you do have to remove the hub nuts, they will not have to be replaced unless you scar the threads or round the corners.
Posted on Jul 09, 2008
So this is what it takes to replace rear brake rotors on a 2003 Mercedes E320;
1) open the bonnet (hood) of the car and loosen/remove the cap off of the brake fluid resevior.
2) remove outer spring clamp from brake assembly (it clips in to the iner edge of the holes of the caliper).
3)using a 7 MM allen wrench, remove the brake caliper.
4) using 18 MM box wrench, remove the caliper housing assembly off of the wheel hub.
5) using a star wrench, unscrew the rotor locking screw from the rotor
6) squirt some liquid wrench on the rotor hub and knock the rotor with a hammer to work the liquid wrench in.
7) using the same hammer, knock the rotor off the hub.
8) using a metal file, lightly file old residue off of the hub and place the new rotor on the hub.
9) set the hub by screwing in the lug nuts and then screw in the hub locking screw using the star wrench, then remove the lug nuts.
10) reinstall the caliper housing assembly onto the wheel hub using the 18 MM box wrench.
11) push back the brake claiper piston to its home position and install the inner brake pad (the one with the snap clips)
12) insert the outer brake pad in the claper housing assembly.
13) slide on the caliper housing with the inner brake pad in place (over the outer brake pad) and screw in the caliper screw rods using the 7 MM allen wrench
14) on the right wheel brakes, DO NOT FORGET to slide in the brake sensor (the one with the black connector) and connect it to the connector on the caliper housing.
15) be sure to reinsert the spring clamp onto the outer brake assembly to set the assembly squarely onto the wheel (there should be no wiggle in the brake assembly after the spring clamps are installed).
16) finally mount the wheels.
17) you can bleed the brakes at this point to release any trapped air (which is unlikely) but be sure to pump the brakes after starting the car BUT BEFORE MOVING IT to re-preassurize the brake system before driving the car.
17) ONE WEEK LATER - recheck brake assembly to ensure all is okay and brake fluid.
This proposed solution is for a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 and NOT a 2005 model as stated by the limited option selection provided by FIXYA.com when initially describing the problem.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
first lift and support the car, than remove the tire.Now the fun begins first you will need to have a 3/8in.or so allen wrench to remove the caliper next you may or may not need to remove the caliper hold down bracket if so you will need a 13 to 15 millimeter wrench or socket.now you can remove the rotor if it does not come off by hand you may have to tap on the center of the rotor with a hammer to get it off.next you will need to remove the tierod if it has a cotterpin running throw the nut you will need to remove it first to get the 15 millimeter nut off.than you will have to hit the housing were the tierod goes throw with a hammer to get it lose.now you should be able to move the steering knuckle freely.next you will need a 30 to a 32 millimeter axle socket to get the axle nut off.now turn the knuckle one way or the other and tap the axle loose from the bearing.there will be 3 bolts on the back side of the knuckle may be a 13 or a hex bolt after you get those 3 bolts out just gently pry the bearing from the hub assembly.replasement will be the opposite of disassemble.if it is not like this than it is going to be a press in and you may just want to take it to you local service station unless you have your own press. hope this helps good luck and enjoy.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
There are some special 4 tooth and hex sockets for removing the nuts inside the hubs of the truck.
YOu can find these at NAPA or maybe AutoZone or Advance. I would go to NAPA because they more than likely have it and also know something about repairing this assembly.
Ford uses Dana front end parts and NAPA has original Dana parts in stock... so it is as good as or better than original and they would have the tool for it.
Be careful and follow the procedure exactly for putting the front hubs back together.
YOU CAN RUIN THE FRONT END OF THE TRUCK IF YOU DO NOT PERFORM THIS SERVICE CORRECTLY.
And trust me... many of the idiots working in repair garages do not know how to do these older 4x4 hubs either... ask someone and read the books for the right procedure... some of the older mechanics may show you how to do it. Ask
Posted on Mar 04, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 04, 2017 | 2003 Ford Explorer
Nov 13, 2016 | 2003 Mercury Mountaineer
Nov 15, 2013 | 2003 Pontiac Sunfire
Nov 19, 2009 | 2003 Ford Explorer
May 19, 2009 | 1990 Toyota Celica
Apr 25, 2009 | 2003 Pontiac Sunfire
Apr 25, 2009 | 2003 Pontiac Sunfire
Apr 10, 2009 | 2003 Pontiac Sunfire
Feb 19, 2009 | 2003 Ford Escort
59 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!