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I'm driving Mitsubishi Nimbus it wont stay at one idle speed and rpm jumps up and down 1000 rpm to 1500 rpm can anybody tel me wat to do

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Timing belt on a Mitsubishi Nimbus 1994

Make sure you mark cam and crankshaft pulleys with at least two marks on each one.
Also put marks on engine to keep them all lined up.
I use either tippex correction fluid or white paint.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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Fleetw00d
  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Honda Accord EX 4 cylinder automatic [engine RPM change]

I had this type of problem on my 93 EX. What is happening is the lockup clutcth in the transmission is engaging and disengaging. When the vehicle is a higher speeds, there is a clutch in the torque converter that locks it up so there is a direct drive from the engine through the transmission (no slippage at all in the converter) to increase efficiency. However, when encountering a grade (uphill), the clutch may unlock (now driving through the fliuid in the torque converter), allowing the engine to speed up and provide more power for climbing the grade; when it reaches the top of the hill, the clutch should lock up again and the rpm will drop. Check the transmission fluid level, if it is low it may affect operation of the clutch. You might also want to consider changing the fluid. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission (no filter to change). You'll only get about 2 of the 6 quarts out of the transmission when you drain it. I recommend you drain it once, refill it, drive it a short distance, then repeat one or two more times so that a majority of the old fluid is replaced. If you think it is acting abnormally (mine would lock up going uphill, then unlock going downhill), there is a cable operated by the thottle cable that attaches to the front of the transmission that provides throttle input info to the transmission. This can be adjusted (I forget which way I had to move mine to correct my problem). If you do mess with it, a small change (1/2 turn) may be all that is necessary.

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Ford Probe Engine jumps down to 0RPM while driving

The tach suddenly falling to zero while driving is a classic symptom of the notorious distributor failure in the 1993-94 Probe GTs. There is a part in the distributor called the ignitor that is failing because they were not made to withstand the high heat conditions of the Probe GT engine compartment. Unfortunately, Ford does not sell ignitors and they charge an insane price for a new distributor.

The easiest solution is to buy a replacement disty. The problem is that many of the rebuilt distys sold by auto parts stores also have ignitors that will soon fail. There is an outfit with an eBay store called the Distributor King that sells replacement distys with upgraded ignitors. The distys they sell are manufactured by Richporter Technology and the model that works on a '93 PGT is number MZ25 ( thats the manufacturer's number, not Distributor King's). You might try checking the price on eBay then google the part number and see if you can find it at a better price elsewhere. There are also other vendors on eBay that say they sell the same identical disty for less than Distributor King. You could email them and ask who makes their distys.

If you are handy and have some time on your hands there is a way to jury rig a replacement for the ignitor for about $20. There is a detailed discussion of that here.

Posted on May 16, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 76848 Answers

SOURCE: while Idling the rpm jumps up and down

Here is the common cause of surges (idle speed goes up and down), stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 76848 Answers

SOURCE: I have been having problems with my car cutting

Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours.
To correct this problem I want you to get a can of intake cleaner (ABOUT $5.00) from any local auto parts store like NAPA or Carquest, do not use carburetor spray, intake cleaner only or u will damage the Teflon coating inside the throttle valve and air bypass valve, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Jun 29, 2010

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Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours.
To correct this problem I want you to get a can of intake cleaner (ABOUT $5.00) from any local auto parts store like NAPA or Carquest, do not use carburetor spray, intake cleaner only or u will damage the Teflon coating inside the throttle valve and air bypass valve, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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