Question about 1990 Chrysler Imperial

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Fuel pump issues troublesome

What side on gas tank is fuel pump right or left? how can i remove the sender from tank?

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ACTUALLY THE PUMP IS IN THE TANK AND TO CHANGE THE SENDING UNIT YOU WILL HAVE TO DROP THE TANK REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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Fuel pump may be in the top middle of the tank, the bulk of the work is removing the gas tank to get at it.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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02 Volvo S60 fuel gauge reads 3/4 when tank is full.Now volvo have 2 senders one on the right with the pump the other on the left side of the gas tank?


The one on the left has the ejector attached so that fuel will transfer from one side of the tank to the other. Are there any codes stored for the DIM?

Sep 16, 2014 | 2002 Volvo S60

1 Answer

How to change the fuel filter on a 2005 Kia sedona


The 2005 is supposed to be the same fuel filter assembly as the earlier years 2002, 2003, 2004, although I tried to put the 2005 assembly in my 2003 and it was too wide for the opening in the gas tank, and therefore would not work. In any case, that particular assembly also did not have the same fuel filter as the one for my 2003, but it may have been an aftermarket part.

Assuming it was an aftermarket product that is not the same as my 2003, when the original is the same between the years, I have captured a detailed explanation and edited it from another mechanic here.
Kia Carnival (GV6) -Replacing the Fuel Filter
This procedure is an expansion of the procedure for removing and replacing the fuel filter provided in the Kia Carnival / Sedona GV6 workshop manual 'FL' section. It may not necessarily apply to
vehicles with other than the 2.5 litre GV6/KV5/K5 engine.

These have the paper element fuel filter as part of the fuel pump / level sender assembly in the fuel tank. It is a hard plastic container style filter that retails around $35.

If you have read the Kia 'FL' workshop manual section on fuel filter replacement this looks like a relatively straightforward job, and it is. However, it is a bit more involved than the manual would suggest

The fuel filter for this vehicle should be replaced at 60,000km intervals, or more frequently if fuel particulate contamination is known to be a problem in your region.

The filter is located in the fuel tank in an assembly that includes the electric fuel pump and fuel level sender. The fuel tank is under the vehicle, almost in the middle, and the pump / filter / sender
assembly is accessed from a service opening in the floor in front of and between the middle row seats.

It's not a bad idea to schedule this task when the fuel tank is nearly empty. Nevertheless, it's a job where you will have fuel everywhere and need lots of rags and plastic bags. Make sure you have an appropriately ventilated workspace and, above all, keep in mind ignition hazards.
Releasing Fuel System Pressure
This procedure should be performed before opening up any of the fuel system lines. As the Kia manual says:

WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM REMAINS UNDER PRESSURE WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING. RELEASE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE BEFORE DISCONNECTING ANY FUEL LINE TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF PERSONAL INJURY OR FIRE DAMAGE TO VEHICLE COMPONENTS.

1.
With your fingers lift and swing open the carpeted hatch of the service opening in the floor just in front and in the middle of the second row of seats. The hatch opens toward the front of the vehicle - This exposes the 4 screws used to remove the hatch. Hatch in floor in front of and between the middle row of seats.
Hatch lifted. It just covers the screws.
2.
Remove 4 screws and remove the hatch. The metal access panel can now be seen, with the fuel pump / level sender cable emerging from it. The cable is the electric pump and fuel level sender harness.
3.
Remove the 4 screws securing the metal panel to the floor pan. Swing the panel to the RH side of the vehicle.
4.
The top of the pump / filter/ sender assembly and the fuel tank can now be seen. (It'll usually be covered in road dust).
5.
Make sure you can remove the pump electrical connector (i.e. contacts not corroded, etc). It's released by depressing the plastic locking tang on top of the cable side. However leave the connector connected for the moment.
6.
Start the engine. 7. Disconnect the fuel pump connector. The engine will run for a while and stall as the fuel pressure drops. 8. Turn the ignition off.
9.
Remove the fuel filler cap to release any pressure in the fuel tank.
10.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before performing any work on the fuel system.
Fuel Filter Removal :
1.
Release the fuel system pressure be sure that the fuel filler cap has been removed to release any pressure in the fuel tank, and the negative battery terminal has been disconnected. (Do it in that order, otherwise you'll have to use the manual 'emergency' wire-pull release to open the fuel flap).
2.
From the service opening in the cabin (opened as part of the procedure to release the fuel pressure), make sure the top of the pump / filter / sender assembly is clean to prevent FOD entering the fuel tank. Loosen dirt with a brush (a stiff paintbrush is good), and use a vacuum cleaner or air hose to remove the material. (There was even road gravel on mine). I went to the dollar store and bought a small amount of clear plastic contact paper, and when it was time to remove the fuel pump assembly I had a tacky cover for the hole to the gas tank. It stuck to the surface just right, and sealed the opening and kept the gas from releasing fumes into the cabin. And just as important, nothing could fall into the tank while I was doing the work..
3.
Take all the usual prudent precautions regarding sources of ignition close by before the next step. E.g. if you used a vacuum cleaner to clean the top of the tank, disconnect it from the mains or move it well away. Put a plastic sheet or similar between the service opening and the LH sliding door. This will protect the carpet from fuel drips as you remove the assembly from the vehicle.
4.
Use pliers to compress and move the metal or plastic clamps on the main and return hoses, mark which one is which, on the left or right.. Have rags at the ready and slowly & carefully pull the rubber hoses off the pipes -although the pressure has been nominally released, plenty of fuel will still squirt from the hoses (gravity-feeding from the hoses, the regulator & injector rails) so be careful as the hoses come off the pipes that fuel doesn't spray - particularly into your eyes. Catch as much as you can with the rags. If the hoses are hard to get off, twist them a bit to loosen any adhesion to the pipes. I swung the panel back in position for a while to allow the spilled fuel to evaporate from the top of the tank before placing the contact paper on the opening.
5.
Undo the 6 small screws securing the pump / filter / sender assembly to the fuel tank. The assembly is on springs to keep it firmly pressed to the bottom of the fuel tank. So as you undo the screws it may tend to spring up. Just keep it pressed down with your hand until all screws
are removed.
6.
Read all of this step before lifting the assembly out of the fuel tank. The gasket under the top may have adhered slightly to the tank and may provide a bit of initial resistance. As you raise the assembly out of the tank, begin tilting it to the left side of the vehicle to allow the fuel level float and arm to come cleanly out of the tank. Lifting the assembly straight up may damage the arm and level sender assembly.

Unfortunately the diagram in the 'FL' manual doesn't give you a clue that the fuel level float and arm are there at all because of the aspect from which it is drawn. Diagram from the Kia workshop manual 'FL' section - the float and arm are not apparent.
7.
Make sure the connectors do not hang into the tank.
8.
I removed the fuel level sender mechanism from the side of the canister as I was concerned that it could get damaged. Not really necessary though. It's removed by disconnecting the electrical connector under the top plate, depressing the plastic tang at the lower end of the sender assembly, and moving the assembly upwards until it clears the plastic rails on the outside of the canister.
9.
Remove the canister from pump & filter assembly. If not already removed, the fuel level sender cable needs to be unplugged. Then the four plastic clips are raised gently with a screwdriver and the canister slips off. Some resistance will be felt -you are also pulling an O-ring out of an internal fitting in the canister.When pulling the canister off the assembly, the resistance felt is from pulling the return line connection out of its mating fitting in the canister. On reinstallation, these need to be aligned.
10.
The Kia manual simply says "Disconnect fuel pump electrical connector and pull the fuel pump from the fuel filter" and presents a diagram.but there's a bit more to it. More detailed steps are:

Disconnect the fuel pump connector from under the top plate.

Remove the main hose fitting from the filter housing by gently lifting up the two plastic retainers

Remove the filter (containing the pump) from the canister top (on mine, the plastic clips barely retained it).

Remove the pump retaining cap by gently prying up the retainers. Be careful not to lose the rubber pad between cap and the pump.
Gauze screen
Main hose fitting
Pump retaining cap
With a small screwdriver, depress the metal tang on the electrical connection on the side of the filter and remove the contact: Slide the pump out of the filter assembly.
The cable connection on the pump body is designed to be removed, but is not easy in situ as it is buried in the filter. I left it on and extracted the cable & connector through the opening in the filter, then disconnected the cable from the pump.
11. The manual says "Be careful not to lose the 4 O-Rings." and presents the diagram. Here's where the 'O-Rings' are located (the sleeve and gasket don't seem much like 'O-rings'
to me, but what's in a name).
"O-Ring"
(gasket) on top.
"O-Ring"
(sleeve) on pump outlet.
O-Ring
on Return line
O-Ring on
Main line to filter Rubber pad
outlet under pump inlet

Interpretation of Kia's "O-Ring" diagram. The pump and top "O-Rings" are more appropriately described as a sleeve and gasket respectively.

With mine, the main line O-ring stayed in the filter and needed to be gently pried out with a screwdriver.
O-ring
retained in filter
Fuel Filter Replacement

Pump retaining cap
Top springs to hold assembly to bottom of tank.
Canister top
Filter unit
Return line fitting
Main line fitting in filter outlet
Gauze screen
Pump and filter assembly before canister is slipped on.

1.
Remove the fuel pump / filter / sender assembly
2.
Gently clean any particulate matter off the gauze pre-filter screen with a brush. And clean any particulate out of the bottom of the canister. (Be careful not to damage or dislodge the flapper valve in the canister).
3.
Make sure the rubber sleeve (and the funny little 'gear' spacer) are on the pump outlet, align the outlet with the new filter's inlet and press the pump firmly into the new filter until it seats.
Press pump outlet into this fitting in filter.
4.
Slip the gauze screen into the pump retaining cap (assuming that it has fallen off), put the rubber pad into the cap, and clip the cap onto the filter.
5.
Plug the cable into the pump and slide the electrical contact into its location into the filter until it clicks.
6.
Feed the connector & cable through the canister lid.
7.
Ensure the o-ring is in place on the main line fitting, and press the fitting into to the filter's outlet until the tangs click on both sides.
8.
Sit the return line hose fitting into the fitting in the filter, making sure it is engaged fully in the four slots. (The fitting looks like it's part of the fuel system, but it's in fact 'blind').
9.
Hold the assembly upside down, and lower the canister onto it, aligned so that the return line engages with the tube in the canister. Press firmly until the clips on the canister lid engage.
10.
Reinstall the fuel level sender onto the side of the canister if you removed it.
11.
Reconnect the fuel level sender connector on the underside of the top. The sender connector is on the sender side of the top:
12.
Recheck the security of all fittings etc, Remove the contact paper seal you put onto the gas tank opening, and lower the assembly into the fuel tank (pipes point to the vehicle left side).
13.
Hold the top down against the springs, align the holes and install the 6 screws.
14.
Put the clamps onto the rubber hoses, reconnect to the pipes, and reconnect the pump/sender cable and the other cables.
15.
Screw the 5 screws to hold the metal plate over the unit
16.
Screw on the plastic/carpet cover.

Before starting the vehicle, make sure there are no gas leaks, that the electrical connectors are installed tightly and the gas cap is back on.
When you turn the ignition key do not engage the starter yet - you should hear the pump working. Let the pump work for the 30 seconds it will run before a start. Turn the key off and reingage the pump two more times before engaging the starter.

This will move gas to where it needs to be in order to start, and create the vacuum needed to pump the gas from the tank.

After three times, turn the ignition key all the way to engage the starter and your vehicle should start.

Jun 23, 2014 | 2005 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

How to take off fuel pump off an 2002audi a6 2.7 quattro


Remove the backseat cushion to get closer to the fuel pump (to listen for a running pump, for example). The lower cushion shouldn't have any bolts holding it down just 2 compression clips. A cover plate indicates the location of the fuel pump, which is on the right side(Passenger side) of the fuel tank for both models. Note, the Quattro has an additional cover plate for the second fuel-level sender on the left side of the tank.

Apr 03, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I see plenty of inquiries about how the gas gauge will go from half then to empty on the internet, but never seen a fix. I have replaced the "jet pump" on the right side of tank, confirmed both...


It could be the sending units. Just because they ohm check okay while sitting still and at the same spot on the resistor does not mean they are good. Something is telling the system to move fuel. What about the control module? Is it adjustable or just bad?

Aug 27, 2011 | 2004 Chrysler Pacifica

1 Answer

How to change the fuel pump


It is inside the fuel tank.

The fuel tank must be dropped to access.

  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. If not done already, disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
  4. Safely drain, then remove the fuel tank assembly.
  5. Remove the fuel tank sending unit and pump assembly by turning the fuel pump cam lock ring counterclockwise, then lift the assembly out of the tank.
  6. Remove the fuel pump from the level sensor unit as follows:
    1. Pull the pump up into the attaching hose or pulsator while pulling outward away from the bottom support.
    2. Take care to prevent damage to the rubber insulator and strainer during removal.
    3. When the pump assembly is clear of the bottom support, pull the pump out of the rubber connector for removal.


To install:
  1. Replace any attaching hoses or rubber sound insulator that show signs of deterioration.
  2. Push the fuel pump into the attaching hoses and install the pump/sensor assembly into the tank. Always use a new O-ring seal.
  3. Be careful not to fold over or twist the strainer when installing the sensor unit. Also, make sure the strainer does not block full travel of the float arm.
  4. Position the cam lock and turn clockwise to lock.
  5. Install the fuel tank.
  6. Fill the tank with gas and check for fuel leaks.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.
The fuel pump is not serviced separately. The sending unit must be serviced as a complete unit.
  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain, then remove the fuel tank.

Be careful when removing the modular fuel sender/pump because it may spring up from its position.
  1. Remove the modular fuel sender/pump as follows:
    1. While holding the modular fuel sender assembly down, remove the snapring from the designated slots located on the retainer.
    2. Keep in mind that the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. It must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float. Place the reservoir fuel into an approved container.
    3. Remove and discard the fuel sender O-ring.

  2. Remove the external fuel strainer.
  3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the electrical connector, then detach the fuel pump electrical connector.
  4. Gently release the tabs on the sides of the fuel sender-to-cover assembly. Begin by starting at the sides of the reservoir and releasing the tab opposite the fuel level sensor. Move clockwise to release the second and third tab using the same method. Refer to the accompanying figure.
  5. Lift the cover assembly out far enough to detach the fuel pump electrical connection.
  6. Rotate the fuel pump baffle counterclockwise, then remove the baffle and pump assembly from their retainer. Refer to the accompanying figure.
  7. Slide the fuel pump outlet out of the slot, then remove the seal/dampener.

To install:
  1. Install the fuel pump seal/dampener, then slide the fuel pump outlet in the slots of the reservoir cover.
  2. Position the fuel pump and baffle assembly onto the reservoir retainer, then rotate clockwise until seated.
  3. Lower the retainer assembly partially into the reservoir. Line up all three sleeve tabs. Press the retainer onto the reservoir making sure all three tabs are firmly seated.

Gently pull on the fuel pump reservoir to be sure it is securely fastened. If it's not secure, the entire fuel sender must be replaced.
  1. Attach the fuel pump electrical connector.
  2. Attach the CPA to the fuel sender cover.
  3. Install a new external fuel strainer.
  4. Install the modular fuel sender as follows:
    1. Position a new sender-to-tank O-ring. Align the tab on the front of the sender with the slot on the front of the retainer snapring.
    2. Slowly apply pressure to the top of the spring loaded sender until it aligns flush with the retainer on the tank.
    3. Insert the snapring into its designated slots, making sure it is fully seated.

  5. Install the fuel tank.
  6. Carefully lower the vehicle, then fill the fuel tank.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.
  8. To check for leaks perform the following:
    1. Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds.
    2. Next turn it to the OFF position for ten seconds.
    3. Turn again to the ON position and check for fuel leaks.

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Jul 28, 2010 | 1993 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Replace fuel pump for 2002 gmc sierra 2500


First...this is where the pump is (gas tank) on the engines listed:

6f9f9d7.gif

Illustrating fuel pump and sending unit sensor (3) on 1999-2005 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L Engines


Removal & Installation
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
  3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  4. Drain the fuel tank.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Fuel tank
8e4564e.gif
WARNING Do not handle the fuel sender assembly by the fuel pipes. The amount of leverage generated by handling the fuel pipes could damage the joints.

  • Fuel sender assembly retaining ring using a fuel tank sending unit wrench. Remove the fuel sender assembly and the seal. Discard the seal.
  • Note the position of the fuel strainer on the fuel sender. Support the fuel sender assembly with one hand and grasp the strainer with the other hand. Pull the strainer off the fuel sender. Discard the strainer after inspection. Inspect the strainer. Replace a contaminated strainer and clean the fuel tank.
    • Fuel pump electrical connector
    • Electrical connector retaining clip from the fuel level sensor
    • Sensor electrical connector from under the fuel sender cover
    • Fuel level sensor retaining clip
  • Squeeze the locking tangs and remove the fuel level sensor.
  • Remove the fuel pressure sensor.
  • To install:
    1. Install or connect the following:
      • Fuel pressure sensor
      • Fuel level sensor
      • Sensor retaining clip
      • Electrical connector to the fuel level sensor
      • Electrical connector retaining clip to the fuel level sensor
      • Fuel pump electrical connector
      NOTE Always install a new fuel strainer when replacing the fuel tank fuel pump module.

      • New fuel strainer in the same position as noted during disassembly. Push the strainer on the bottom of the fuel sender until the strainer is fully seated.
      • New seal on the fuel tank
      NOTE The fuel pump strainer must be in a horizontal position when the fuel sender is installed in the tank. When installing the fuel sender assembly, assure that the fuel pump strainer does not block full travel of the float arm.

      • Fuel sender assembly into the fuel tank
      • Fuel sender assembly retaining ring
      • Fuel tank. Install the fuel tank strap attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
    2. Refill the fuel tank. Install the fuel filler cap. Connect the negative battery cable.
    3. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
    4. Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
    5. Turn the ignition ON.
    6. Inspect for fuel leaks

    Oct 25, 2009 | 2002 GMC Sierra 1500

    5 Answers

    Replacing a fuel pump.


    I suggest checking the autozone.com website and register the car. It's free and will give you access to an online repair manual for the car. Pretty handy if you're going to do maintenance on the vehicle. The steps for replacing the fuel pump should be available there. Hope this helped and best wishes.

    Sep 08, 2009 | 1999 Oldsmobile Aurora

    1 Answer

    How long does it take to replace both fuel tanks?


    2000 Chevrolet Corvette V8-5.7L VIN G

    Fuel Pump: Service and Repair
    REMOVAL PROCEDURE (LEFT OR RIGHT)
    TOOLS REQUIRED
    ^ J 34730-1A Fuel Pressure Gauge
    ^ J 37088-A Tool Set, Fuel Line Quick Connect Separator
    CAUTION: Refer to the Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to the Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure.
    CAUTION: Refer to Vehicle Lifting Caution in Service Precautions.
    3. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
    4. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
    5. Clean all of the fuel connections and the surrounding areas before disconnecting the fuel pipes in order to avoid possible contamination of the
    fuel system.
    6. Drain the fuel tanks. Refer to Fuel Tank Draining Procedure.
    7. Remove the fuel tank shield.
    8. Mark or identify each fuel pipe in order to aid in installing the pipes in their original positions.
    9. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel sender.
    10. Cap all of the fuel pipes.
    11. Disconnect the fuel sender electrical connector.
    12. Remove the fuel tank strap.
    13. Support the fuel tank.
    14. Remove the fuel sender attaching bolts. Remove previously installed "break-away head" service bolts using a 5/16 inch open end wrench.
    15. Discard the fuel sender attaching bolts.
    16. Remove the float arm retaining clip and the float arm (left fuel sender only).
    17. Carefully remove the fuel sender with the gasket.
    18. Discard the fuel sender gasket.
    19. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
    INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (RIGHT)
    CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket
    and the fuel sender attaching bolts when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
    1. Install a new fuel sender gasket on the fuel sender.
    2. Fold the long strainer in half over itself and hold the strainer in this position.
    3. Pinch both strainers upward toward each other.
    IMPORTANT: Do not bend or twist the float arm.
    4. Insert the float arm through the fuel tank opening followed by the folded strainers.
    5. Release the strainers once the strainers are in the fuel tank. The strainers will spring back to their full position.
    6. Continue inserting the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening. It may be necessary to rotate the fuel sender in order to facilitate the installation.
    6.1. Look through the fuel tank opening to ensure that the long strainer is visible.
    6.2. If the strainer is not visible, rotate the fuel sender clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. Rotating the fuel sender will free up
    the strainer. The strainer should become visible at the tank opening.
    7. Align the fuel sender gasket tab (2) with the fuel sender cover mark (1).
    8. Align the fuel sender cover mark (1) with the fuel tank mark.
    NOTE: Refer to the Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
    9. Hand tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender attaching bolts until finger tight.
    IMPORTANT: The upper hex head portion of the fuel sender attaching bolts is designed to shear off of the lower section of the bolt when the
    proper torque is reached. Do not tighten the bolts after the bolt heads have sheared off. A torque wrench or other special tools are not required. Do
    not use thread locking or other types of sealers or lubricants when installing these bolts and gasket.
    10. Tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender assembly attaching bolts in sequence until the upper hex head portion of the bolts shear off of the
    lower section.
    11. Connect the fuel sender fuel feed pipe (1) (jet pump to left tank) and the fuel feed rear crossover pipe (2) (left tank to jet pump).
    12. Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
    13. Install the fuel tank strap (3).
    14. Install the fuel tank strap bolts (1,2,4).
    Tighten
    14.1.Tighten the bolt (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
    14.2.Tighten the bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
    14.3.Tighten the remaining bolts (4) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
    15. Install the fuel tank shield (1).
    16. Install the fuel tank shield mount bolt (2).
    17. Install the fuel tank shield mount nut (3).
    Tighten
    ^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
    ^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount nut to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
    18. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.
    19. Lower the vehicle.
    20. Refill the fuel system.
    21. Install the fuel filler cap.
    22. Connect the negative battery cable.
    23. Inspect for leaks.
    23.1.Turn the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds.
    23.2.Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds.
    23.3.Turn the ignition switch ON.
    23.4.Inspect for fuel leaks.
    24. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Keyless Entry.
    25. Perform the idle learn procedure. Refer to PCM Idle Learn Procedure.
    INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (LEFT)
    IMPORTANT: Always install a new fuel pump strainer before reinstalling the left fuel sender assembly. A fuel pump strainer that has been
    exposed to fuel will not unfold in the fuel tank and may block full travel of the float arm.
    1. Install a new fuel pump strainer in the same position as noted during disassembly. Push on the outer edge of the strainer ferrule until the strainer
    is fully seated.
    CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket
    and the fuel sender attaching bolts when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
    2. Install a new fuel sender gasket on the fuel sender.
    3. Fold the strainer three times so that the amount of space occupied by the strainer is about equivalent to the diameter of the fuel sender reservoir.
    3.1. Fold the long side of the strainer over (1 over 2).
    3.2. Fold 3 over 4 and hold the strainer in the folded position.
    4. Insert the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening.
    5. Release the strainer once the strainer is in the fuel tank. The strainer will spring back to its full position.
    6. Continue inserting the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening. It may be necessary to rotate the fuel sender in order to facilitate the installation.
    6.1. Look through the fuel tank opening to ensure that the long side of the strainer is visible.
    6.2. If the strainer is not visible, rotate the fuel sender clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. Rotating the fuel sender will free up
    the strainer. The strainer should become visible at the tank opening.
    IMPORTANT: Do not bend or twist the float arm.
    7. Insert the float and the float arm into the fuel tank opening.
    8. Install the float arm retaining clip.
    9. Align the fuel sender gasket tab (1) with the fuel sender cover mark (2).
    10. Align the fuel sender cover mark (2) with the fuel tank mark.
    NOTE: Refer to the Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
    11. Hand tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender attaching bolts until finger tight.
    IMPORTANT: The upper hex head portion of the fuel sender attaching bolts is designed to shear off of the lower section of the bolt when the
    proper torque is reached. Do not tighten the bolts after the bolt heads have sheared off. A torque wrench or other special tools are not required. Do
    not use thread locking or other types of sealers or lubricants when installing these bolts and gasket.
    12. Tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender assembly attaching bolts in sequence until the upper hex head portion of the bolts shear off of the
    lower section.
    13. Connect the fuel sender fuel feed pipe (1) (jet pump to left tank), the fuel return rear pipe (2), and the fuel feed rear pipe (3).
    14. Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
    15. Install the fuel tank strap (3).
    16. Install the fuel tank strap bolts (1,2,4).
    Tighten
    16.1.Tighten the bolt (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
    16.2.Tighten the bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
    16.3.Tighten the remaining bolts (4) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
    17. Install the fuel tank shield (3).
    18. Install the fuel tank shield mount bolt (1).
    19. Install the fuel tank shield mount nut (2).
    Tighten
    ^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
    ^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount nut to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
    20. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.
    21. Lower the vehicle.
    22. Refill the fuel system.
    23. Install the fuel filler cap.
    24. Connect the negative battery cable.
    25. Inspect for leaks.
    25.1.Turn the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds.
    25.2.Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds.
    25.3.Turn the ignition switch ON.
    25.4.Inspect for fuel leaks.
    26. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Keyless Entry.
    27. Perform the idle learn procedure. Refer to PCM Idle Learn Procedure.

    Jul 06, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Corvette

    2 Answers

    How do I get to the fuel filter in the gas tank.


    I have never seen a fuel filter in the gas tank, fuel pump yes. To get to anything in the tank the tank has to be removed from the vehicle.

    May 19, 2009 | 2003 Land Rover Range Rover

    1 Answer

    1989 Saab 900 low level fuel light


    You don;t say whether the fuel gauge is reading accurately, or whether it's always on empty. If the gauge is always showing empty, it's most likely a problem with the sending unit in the fuel tank. Check the resistance across the two terminals of the sending unit.

    On a C900, the fuel sender level unit is separate from the fuel pump and located on the right side top of the tank, accessible by removing the trunk floor lift up panel (the pump is located on the left side top of the tank.
    Possible problems are: electrical line off or broken, float not working (it's fairly delicate); or gauge not working.

    Test the resistance of the sending unit with the lines disconnected, the resistance should be 2.6 to 3.8 ohms full tank, 63.3 to 67.5 ohms empty tank; and test for voltage across the top of the sender unit, if no voltage, that's likely the problem!

    If the gauge is otherwise reading accurately (showing 'full' for a full tank, etc) then the problem is likely a gauge malfunction and can be simply replaced.

    Good luck!

    Saabreur

    Jul 10, 2008 | 1989 Saab 900 4 Door

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