Question about GMC Suburban
Does anyone know where to get an electrical wiring diagram for my truck? **** I am trouble shooting why my "Rear Hatch" switch doesn't work. I have power to the "Rear Hatch" switch. I removed the actuator from the rear cargo door and jumpered it to the battery. It actuates each time I touch the battery terminals. I am not getting voltage to the actuator when the switch is depressed. (I have two extra switch I bought from a local junk yard - AC Delco doesn't make these any more.) I purchased a Chiltons manual from a local auto parts store. The wiring diagram is very basic. The power is supplied from a "DR LOCK FUSE 20A" which is hot at all times. This is located in the - Left Bussed Electrical Center. I looked in the left side fuse panel. There is one 20A fuse which is labeled "CTSY". This fuse has high resitance - 16.5 OHM. The rest of these fuses have average of 0.5 OHM. The basic electrical diagram mentions a "Right Bussed Electrical Center". I can not find this fuse panel or fuseable links. I need to verify voltage from the left side panel to this location to help trouble shoot my potential short. Best Regards, Jason Hampton
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The fuse box that contains the rear lift gate module fuse is located under the rear seat. Lift the seat cushion and you will see the black fuse box cover.
Make sure you check #19 which is another lift gate module fuse.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
I had this problem, and to be honest, it happened to the left side about a week later...it's the board that the bulbs plug into...it's a very common problem with this model. So popular that you can normally get the socket board off the shelf at a parts store! it's extremely simple to replace, and I replaced all the bulbs at the same time!
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
first never plug back in to that trailer, it may have bad wiring, the next thing to do is to check the front and rear bulbs, they may have blown,if it was a fuse the signal inside would not blink,so this tells me you may have blown the bulbs,and also this trailer is unhooked from the van and lights still dont work?. good luck.
Posted on Mar 21, 2010
Testimonial: "No you are Mistaken. Bulbs we're not blown. There were 2 fuses blown 1 in each fuse box. c34rear parking in fusebox below seat and c27bcm under hood"
A wrecking yard is your best bet. The odds of you getting one that is bad are astronomical. Are you sure your remote has fresh battery's? Also check your fuse going to that devise before buying another one. The second choice on where to find one is eBay. Of course they are usually higher then a wrecking yard. They get a lot of there parts for sale by going to the salvage yard them selves. I hope this helps and Good Luck, The Raz
Posted on Apr 16, 2010
Most possible as you have confirmed the status of the actuator to be working and that there is no +12 volt to the window unit ,is a BREAK or OPEN wire int he harness to the door.
This could have snapped at the hinges or there is damage to the harness. A good visual check on this to back trace must get you to the problem.
To confirm that there is a break you can find out the + 12 to the independent circuit on the door. Make sure that an external link with the +12 will get the door lock to work.
This will confirm our theory of an open connection.
Tip: you can remove the other door to get the circuit voltage details , make a detailed marking and compare.
Posted on Mar 21, 2011
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