Question about Cars & Trucks
I have a 99 Ford Superduty 7.3 Diesel. It is making a really bad grinding/screeching sound just after it starts and is warming up. It wouldn't shut up off all the way even after the key was turned off and taken out. It was still making noises like it was trying to stay running. I would restart it and all the while the loud screeching would continue. I couldn't shut it off until I put it in neutral and turned the key off again. I started it again and it made the same loud noise. I live in Colorado and the temperature is 18 degrees.
Indicates that the starter motor is stuck in the ring gear
possibly faulty starter relay or starter solenoid
pull the starter as the pinion over ride clutch is probably damaged ( noise ) and have the start circuit and relay checked
have the starter bench tested for serviceability by an accredited auto electrician
Posted on May 03, 2017
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: s-10 won't start
Being a Degreed expert in this Electronics field this should be fairly easy. See my professional references posted at the end.
First of all - It appears (notice I say appears) that your charging system is functioning OK if you did the QUICKIE alternator/regulator test and that part appears to be fine. Did you?
Next - Never ASSUME you have a good, fully charged, or even a NEW battery whatever the case may be. I've seen brand new batts fail a few months after purchase for no known reason at all. Water level should be topped off esp during Hotter weather as water level will drop as the batt ages.
AND - when in doubt - Always do a hydrometer test on each cell, and make sure all cells read equally at approx 1.285 to 1.290 - indicating a fully charged batt.
Next - do a batt LOAD TEST.
When doing a LOAD TEST with an external 100 Amp Load Tester make sure you disconnect the POS terminal cable (or better yet both batt cables) on the batt before doing a good Load Test on a "supposed" fully charged batt.
Batt voltage on a good fully charged batt should never drop much below 11.4 to 11.7 volts doing a 10 second load test using a 100 Amp Load Tester similar to say one bought at Harbor Freight Tools for like $15 when they are on sale. If the voltage drops below 11.4 volts, or even say 10 volts - then your batt is NO GOOD. That is - if it indeed is FULLY charged??
If the top of the batt is wet (for whatever reason such as dew-point or leaky batt acid) this will cause the batt to self-discharge right across the top of the batt. Just like putting a small light-bulb across the batt posts and causing a drain. It happens more times than you care to know. When I worked at SEARS I seen it day in and day out......trust me I know this for FACT!
If the batt posts are very very dirty then that very possibly is your problem right there (you'll need to remove both cable clamps, and clean both the clamps and the batt posts until the lead is nice and shiny and then re-tighten again!).
If your batt is being run down for any reason you'll need to do a few more checks below:
Next - you'll want to check for a couple things at night, or else daylight will work as well - if you have good eyesight. You want to check and make sure your "backup lights" aren't ON when the Headlights Switch is turned OFF and the Ignition Switch is OFF as well. Sometimes a SHORTED Transmission Backup Light Switch will cause a battery drain with everything shut off. Sometimes!
Also - If you have any Interior Lights left on when the SUV doors are all closed that will surely drain the battery down.
A radio/stereo left ON will do the same as well.
A shorted tail-light (or any marker light) will also cause a battery to drain over time.
Any vehicles that have an under the hood light Mercury Tilt Switch for the Engine compartment sometimes can have this switch mounting come loose and when you shut the hood the light will actually stay lit thus draining the batt down as well. Make sure you check it at NIGHT during darkness as it will show up better.
If any of the above proves indeed to be a batt drain related problem, then we nest need to isolate the related problem.
In which case you will have to do an actual DVM in-line amp meter test to see just how much current leakage (shorting) you have. A fuse block isolation test will next have to be done to isolate from which circuit leg the short (or current drain) is coming from.
Once that circuit is isolated then it's just a matter of finding the shorted device or shorted wire(s).
If you just added anything new electrical wise to the Jeep recently- then that is a good starting point - for if the problem wasn't there before that time, and now it is - then there is your culprit!
If you are using an external battery charging PV (Photo-voltaic) panel, and it's bad for any reason - then it will drain your battery down as well, esp if the blocking or back diode goes bad.
Also - If you have a dual battery system with a BATTERY ISOLATOR installed you might want to double check all your wiring there as well - as I've seen them go bad and cause many a battery problem!
Having said that above -
Some Ford models also have/had a dual SOLENOID system with one being right near the batt, and the other one (normally) mounted on the starter.
Both solenoids will need to be checked in that case, as the starter solenoid might be good but the "ignition" solenoid might be bad - as to having bad LOAD contacts inside or else loose Batt +12 volt cables!! Cables can get loose or else go bad at the crimped lug ends!
It's rare that the starter itself or the starter solenoid has a bad ground, as then the solenoid mounting bolts or starter mounting bolts would have to be pretty darn loose. It happens but not that often. Usually the flywheel will make a GRINDING sound first and that is a BIG indication something is terribly WRONG there!!
If all the above proves NOT to be the apparent cause, or seemingly not related to the starter problem itself, then very well the starter brushes are shot - as in worn out! At which point a replacement starter is needed. Providing this is the OLD starter indeed, and not a rebuilt one to begin with that just has been replaced recently. Is it the original, or OLD starter?
If so and if it's had over 100-150,000 miles on it - chances are it's SHOT.
It's gotta be something I just went over here - as I covered everything......
Let me know what it was OK? Post a reply here and please rate my troubleshooting fix.
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
i would say your transfer case is on its way out. but it is hard to say that is a lot of info to take in but ya i say tranfer case is toste
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
check the dynamo pulp ring
or the water pump if the car heat is stable so it's ok
30 $ to change the dynamo pulp ring
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
Are the front brake pads ok? Some have squeal indicators, it is a tin plate that touches the disc (without damaging) to warn you that the brakes are worn. On the initial stages it will happen more so on slow cornering but will quickly get louder over a matter of days.
Check the pads for thickness, should be min 6mm
Posted on Jan 09, 2010
remove the AC relay to shut the AC off all the time. Not sure why it wont start but you may havea security lockout. Fully charge the battery to proceed.
Posted on May 31, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 05, 2014 | 2001 Ford F350 Super Duty SuperCab
Sep 29, 2011 | 1999 Ford Explorer
Jul 23, 2010 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty
Jan 25, 2010 | 2002 Ford F350 Super Duty DRW Reg. Cab
Dec 08, 2009 | 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab
Feb 25, 2009 | 1991 Ford F350
84 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!