Question about Cars & Trucks
I NEED diagram for 4 wheel drive ford f 150 hub assembly
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Bolt, M16-2.0 x 50
Bolt, Caliper Mount M12-1.75 x 30
Disc Brake Caliper
Front Wheel Spindle
Differential Bearing Cup
Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield
3131 Steering Knuckle
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
Your front hubs are automatic locking hubs, and the gears are hard nylon. These hubs break very easily, therefore causing you to lose your front wheel drive in 4 high, or 4 low. If you replace the hubs with "WARN (name brand) " manual locking hubs, you will never have the issue again. Of course, you will have to get out of the truck and manually lock the hubs, but they are metal gears, and much more durable. I've personally seen the issue several times, and changing the hubs has resolved the issue every time.
Posted on May 01, 2009
SOURCE: Rear wheel bearing diagram
The bearing is pressed in so you will have to carry the hub to a machine shop to have the old bearing pressed out and the new bearing pressed in once you have the hub off the car.
Process to remove hub is as follows (from the 1990 Miata Service manual)
Remove rear wheel, rear wheel brake caliper assembly (suspend with a rope), and disc plate.
Check for rear hub play with a dial indicator, if excessive play either tighten the locknut or remove hub and replace bearing.
To remove bearing bend up the locknut stake and remove axle nut - torque is between 159 - 217 ft pounds.
Now remove the hub, retaining ring, rear wheel knuckle, wheel bearing (if loose), dust cover.
Replace with new parts, locknut, dust cover, knuckle bushings and hub bolts (if worn).
Take knuckle with wheel bearing to machine shop and have old bearing pressed out and new bearing pressed in.
Assembly is reverse of the above.
I have personally found that by the time I pay a machine shop to do the removal and reinstall of the bearing and take my time into account it is less expensive to pay a good shop to do this work for me.
DIY information at Miata.net
Posted on May 10, 2009
the 4x4 don't use vacuum. the front is auto lock when the transfer is engauged with the button. if the light don't which when pressed into 4hi or 4low. the motor on the transfer case maybe hung up. they have to be used at least 4 times a year not to go bad. the motor is on the back side of the transfer case. best of luck.
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
Operationally vacuum holds the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) out, and once vac is removed the spring engages the IWE.
Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground ( take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc )
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.
- If the front drive shaft does not turn :
Shut of the truck ( still jacked up, and supported ) remove the vac lines from the IWE. The spring should push the gears in, without the vac line on.
Check the vent line ( tube that is routed into the engine compartment with nothing attached to it ), for blockages.
If the vent line is clear, and with the vac lines off the IWE should be engaged ( both front wheels locked ).
If they lock, the problem is with the IWE solenoid not shutting off vacuum to the IWEs. There is a TSB on the 2004-2006 IWE solenoids, a newer revision has been made, and used from 2007 and newer MYs.
Here is a block diagram of the IWE system
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
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