Will not shift out of park

when did you see car work perfectly before, never or 10 years ago or?
check fuses, not change them. there are 3 ways to test all fuse, looks, ohms and volts.
3 ways.
and 2 to 3 fuses boxes, cab and engine bay and some cars have trunk fuses, the service manual covers all this.
worst is not telling all thing failing and all things not failing. (in brief the good)
gee does car drive ok ????????
held lamps work? and all 12 parking lamps
brake lamps all dead cause park shifter lockout failure.
heater blower dead on high
radio works, electrics on cars is complex 25 fuse and 100 loads. or more. off them in huge tree structure
lets do stop lamps dead. (#1 cause of park lockout is this
battery not bad and is fully charged to 12.6vdc rested
head lamps work
engine starts and runs ,drives. is first fact not told.
(the serial path of power)
STOP fuse good 15amp fuse in the fuse box
STOP switch good to pedal
switch White wire hot all the time, even key off
switch wire out g-w is hot 12vdc stepping on the brake
if not the switch is bad.
next this g-w wire goes to park lockout page
the the SHIFT LOCKOUT ECU.(oxymoron named)
they mean shift lock controller, in truth.
SL ECU has 10 pins.
1 is , stop wire. above (hot when stopping)
and this SL ECU must energize the lockout solenoid
or you can not shift the shifter out of park
the CIG FUSE not blown or ACC pin goes dead on
SL ECU.
ECU-IG fuse not blow or no power to SL_ECU
the 3 pin shift lock control switch not bad. at shifter.
key present switch not bad
engine runs , means other fuses to SL-ECU are good.
that is, windows bad is a whole other ball game and lots of tests. to do there. using a voltmeter is best.


this is SL controller below all inputs must be good.

https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

USA?
park lockout failure for sure.
scan it,and check all fuses first.
lots of causes. this old.
bad cam belt,if has one. 7AFE, it does and slipped. oops must be fixed first ,not one belt ever lasted 26 years,. eva.
bad spark.
The PCM runs spark not you, not hotwired,
sure all starters made hotwire with easy as you just did.
PCM will not make spark if PRNDL switch fails and PARK and Neutral shows up as neutral not R- Reverse. or D or L. fail.
PCM runs the pump NOT you, if PCM spark fail it cuts all fuel injection and maybe pump too.
EFI relay pin 1 is E1 to ground body,that?
if the P/N switch fail the starter relay will be dead
60amp main fuse blown makes ST relay dead too.
No SHIFT lock wiring I am read the SM schematics to you here.
fuse good CIG-RAD fuse good, ecu-IG and STOP fuse good.
toyota schematics are joy to read, unlike trash from germans.
shift lock control switch not bad in shifter.
Shift lock cPU board not bad or shift lock solenoid not bad
the later unlocks the shifter.
the same CPU BOARD UNLOCKS THE KEY.
SEEN HERE

https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Sounds more like a key switch or fuse box problem.
The circuits you mentioned would be on separate fuses but could be connected to the key switch. The relays are grounded by the engine computer to be energized.

could be a blown fuse for the engine computer, or a problem with the key switch. you might check the cig lighter fuse too.

What did you plug in? I had a similar issue when I plugged in a high amp tire pump. It kept blowing fuses because the pump itself had a short. Be wary of using stuff like that in the cig lighter. I switched to a hand held pump. How was the computer found to be defective? I wonder if the cig issue shorted the computer?

the fuse box is under the dash panel on drivers side. Fuse is blown. You may have faulty relay as well. Change fuse first. THere could be a short in the control switches causing fuse to snap.

Your transmission shifter is controlled by the "shift interlock system". You blew the fuse that controls it. I'm guessing that your radio also does not work?

The fuse you need to replace is for the cigarette lighter - it's in the driver side kickpanel. It controls the lighter, the radio, and your shift interlock system.

The "Stop" fuse could also create the same problem, because your car must register the brakes as being depressed before it will let you shift out of park. Check both those fuses first. One of them is likely your issue.

Good luck.

you probably didnt change the right fuse and had another one blown at the same time you also could have a primary fuse under the hood that blew. once fixed dont use pump again. not same amps drawn

recheck your fuses it is the only possable cause;if this fails replace the cig socket.hope this helps.adrian

have the alt tested there not very good do you have 12 volts going to the big wire on the alt and with key on you should have it to a small wire going to the regulator to turn it on