fixing car guessing is very very expensive.
why do that, a $10 voltmeter from walfart and bam cause .
a harmless tool. lets humans see electrons, (voltage potential or drop) just like a water pressure gauge, does.
zero pressure, no flow, dead.
its a 97 grand so my guess its and automatic trans.
no engine stated, so i cant guess the matching box, so...
we do this, GENERIC.
here is a no crank page (called a class 1 failure, dead starter)
you cant drive car with a silent engine, DOA.
first off , there can be 2 ways for a car with a good battery and starter not to crank.
what are they, the park neutral switch dead, or the immoblizer.
if you had checked the starter relay first.
with a meter , you'd already have cut the problem in 1/2
(saving you the cost of the other half not bad, in 5min work)
using a VOLTMETER.
so car will not crank jumper cable started, (all reg. folks do this first or call AAA Tow and he does it for you)
ok he fails. starter is dead. still.
then this car is ZJ jeep the FSM book is free, posted here
300 times now. not again. ever. search.
here we go, with path checks
PDC fuse 8 good. 12v both sides, ok good.
now the Start relay there, 4 pins
pin C6 hot all time. 12v. white wire (WT)
pin c7 LG-bk wire goes hot cranked, if not forget starter bad.!!!
if the relay clicks and c9 is dead, the relay is bad. (easy no?)
if relay fails to click bingo , (P/N dead)
pin C8 YL-RD wire is hot cranked. if is good. if not? then key switch bad. (dead start pin)
pin C8 must be 0v cranked, or the Park/Neutr, switch is dead.
cranking voltage can be 10 to 12v. ok. (lower in Alaska)
the skim immobilizer does not cut cranking , only fuel.
so dont replace that too.
the real deal.
my photo are large and clear but fixya wrecks them. all.