The AC, heat, and defrost doesn't seem to produce any flow into the interior of the car. The AC will occasionally work when if I hit a bump in the road, not sure if the same happens for heat/defrost. The fan appears to be working fine, when the car is parked and running at least. When I turn the air off the fan stops, and starts again when I turn it back on.
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theres a small narrow plastic line from engine compartment going through fire wall witch supplies the actuators it gets hard over time and breaks or cracks when that happens the defrost vent will stay on . when this happens not enough air vauum getting to vent units.
Well, I don't know. I would have to see the car. Generally, as long as air can flow thru the condenser and radiator, the ac system can produce cold air. As for the interior, you normally pull in outside air and cool or heat it, but you can also recirculate inside air which would close off the outside fresh air intake for the cabin.
Hello, Thank you for letting me assist you. Let's look at your problem. I don't see a year or model for your vehicle so I will assume it is 1990 or newer. Manufacturers for some reason setup the defroster setting to activate the AC compressor regardless of what you have the temperature setting set to anytime it is turned on. This becomes problematic in some regions. I know when I drive through Pennsylvania during the winter I had to change my windshield washer fluid from cleaner to a 50 /50 mix of cleaner and alcohol/deicer fluid in order to stop the icing on my windows. Your problem though, as I understand your post, is there is ice forming on the inside of the vehicle.
The first thing to make sure you are setting the air control to recirculate instead of bringing air in from the outside. Second, make sure your using a 60/40 mix of Anti-Freeze in your radiator and that your radiator is properly filled. Normally you use a 50/50 but in your case you seem to be in a colder region and being a little stronger on the Anti Freeze will ensure you don't have a motor freeze. Next you need to check your thermostat. If you haven't replaced it in the last 5 years I would replace it. In colder regions you really need the thermostat to make sure your actually building heat up before water is cycled from the radiator. The next check is to make sure your actually getting heat to the heater coil on the inside of the vehicle. Start the vehicle and let it idle for about 10 minutes. This should be enough time for the engine to heat up and for the thermostat to open. Then turn the heater on with it set to your mid-level vents. If you have no heat coming through the vents you need to check your heat control valve and AC compressor. If your set to heat and not defrost the AC compressor should not be running. Make sure the control valve on your main heater line is open. The main Heater line is a 1" or 5/8" line that runs from motor to the firewall, it will have a control valve on it that is either cable controlled or more commonly vacuum controlled. The vacuum controlled system are more problematic as any vacuum leak in the system will cause it to malfunction plus the vacuum controller where you set the temperature inside the vehicle can cause problems and is hard to isolate. The good news is you can by-pass this control in the winter even if you only do it for testing. Remove the controller and put a straight pipe in its place. If you don't have water running through that hose either your water pump is bad or you have a blockage. Now, assuming you have water flowing through that hose, if the heater works when the vehicle is sitting and idling but it gives you trouble when your driving there is one more option. I don't recommend doing this except in very cold climates as it can cause you to overheat and you have to remember to undo this trick when it gets 50 degrees or warmer. You can partially block the radiator. Be careful not to fully block it and be aware this will cause more resistance when the vehicle is moving. They sell kits in cold climate areas that are made of canvas to partially block the air flow through the radiator but you can make one using cardboard or a piece of canvas just don't use anything plastic. This will reducing the cooling capacity of your radiator and increase the warmth of the water going to the heater core. I normally see these in areas like Canada, Colorado or Alaska in the winter but there are cases when you may need them in other states. Let me know if this doesn't fix the problem. If none of this works then let me know what you found doing the checks I gave you and we will look at something else.
I am not an expert of Volvo's but what you describe is normal operation for most cars. If hot air was directed at a very cold windshield it could crack it. So when you kick it over to defrost, the hot air is mixed with AC air and the amount of air flow is restricted so that it doesn't crack.
Did the operation of your Volvo defrost system seem to change all of a sudden and that is the reason you posted this? If so how did it change?
Check to see if the air is coming out of the defrost vents up on top of your dash...by the windshield. If this is the case...you have a vacuum line that has either come loose under the dash....or....the vacuum controller located behind the AC/Heat controller is not functioning properly. ( Tip....Vacuum is what actuates the "doors" inside your AC/Heat plenum...directing airflow straight out front vents...up to the defrost....and down to the heat.....
Try to post back and let me know If I helped you solve your problem. It will help me with my rating....! Thanks
Chanses are its either the blend door motor quit working or the controls ( temp., selector, blower) in dash are bad, my 95 did the same thing i chg. the blend door motor thinking it was that, but it turned out to be the controls in the dash, 5 minutes work and 140.00 later it was fixed.