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Sep 28, 2014 too old, to post ...? seems not. check pump voltage at the pump cranking. then if that fails to be 11v. then at the fuel pump relay, cranking, (the big pink wire is it)
FI fuses and ig-coil fuse must be good. and the CEL lamp glow key on, or ECU may be dead.(ask) always test with a $10 volt meter, voltages matter, test lamps were great back in 1950/60. these cars love to have, like 6 or 8v on the way to the pump, due to rust on the connectors. the meter shows this truth, and never a lamp.
not that be hard.
buy both FSM,
put both schematic before your eyes.
you are jumping many generatations.
why not just move the long block and leave car stock.
odd why are you making this 1000x harder than need be.....????
do not move manifolds, just block and head long block.
the ECU/PCM is totally different.
no were in your question did you say if you had checked for codes in the computer. check this now it may help find the problem. this should have been done in the first place and you wouldn`t have spent all that money on none required parts. it could even be the computer gone bad.
Overfilled is not good but it would have to be very high to cause leak,There are numerous places in rear of engine that could be leaking.could be leaking from rear of intake,the oilpump drive o ring,but most likly leaking from rear main seal that seals at the rear of the crankshaft and the transmission will need to come out to access this seal. you will need to have the oil leak diagnosed to locate the exact spot.
No only if it is defective or you know that you had a short, it is common for a shop to replace both but only after testing to see if there is more than .2 ohms resistance on any of the two prongs on the relay or from the computer to ground.
When you rest your codes there is a series of tests your ECU has to go through before you can pass emissions. this is done some people can reset the code and go before its sets the code again. on the 96 you can have 2 tests not complete for it to pass. basicly you have to drive the car a couple days for the tests to pass.
check the readiness tests wait until only 2 have not passed. then you should be good.so drive and check.
BMW SERVICE RESET Take a small wire, paperclip, or elect wire and bend like a horseshoe. No light or equipment necessary Open the diagnostic data port, the one were the little pacman centre is located. Turn the ignition to position 2, don?t start. Connect pin7 always first and then pin 19. Hold for 4 seconds. Remove wire and settings will be reset. Warning if you hold the wire longer than 10 seconds you may reset inspection intervals 1 and 2. I?ve done this twice and it definitely work on my E36