Replacing the temperature sending unit for my readiator/heater
I recently had my thermostat and radiator replaced by a friend and he forgot to install the temop sending unit...He told me about it and I bought one but have no clue as to where to install it. I don't want to ask another favor so...if you can lead me in right direction I would appreciate it.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I am assuming that you know this since the temp gauge is not reading at normal temperature. I say this because I have had people in the past tell me that the engine wasn't warming up only to find out that the real problem was the heater wasn't working. They are two completely different issues. That said, the primary reason that an engine won't come up to operating temp is that the thermostat is either
remove the wire from the temperature sender unit and earth it out on the engine . Turn on the ignition and see if the gauge goes to overheat. If it dose replace the temperature sender unit. If it doesn't replace the gauge.
Hello! Can not tell from the question if your loosing coolant...But it sounds like an air bubble behind the thermostat is blocking the flow...Remove the thermostat...Replace housing...Buy a back flushing kit from an auto parts store...Back flush the cooling system...Make sure heat is on high...Replace thermostat and refill with 50/50...start the engine with radiator cap off...Let all the air bubble out, even after thermostat opens...Wait until upper hose gets hot then replace the cap...Top off in the recovery tank...Now, monitor temperature...If all is well back flushing and air bleeding cleared the fault...If engine overheats due to loss of coolant I'll address that next...If coolant is not being lost does the engine actually overheat? ie..bubbling into recovery tank...If not the temperature sending unit is defective...send a comment...Guru...saailer
that would be the place to start, remove the readiator cap and fill the readiator then the over flow bottle, make sure the engine is cool before removing the cap, then fill the readiator and then start the engine with the cap off and top the radiator off again it would be a good idea to let the engine run untill the thermostat opens to make sure the radiator is full you will know when the thermostat opens when the top radiator hose get hot......good luck
Did the engine overheat before the water pump was replaced? If so, you may have a warped cylinder head and/or blown head gasket.
Was the radiator full of rusty-colored liquid before you flushed it? If so, your radiator is probably restricted with rust deposits in the cooling tubes. Flushing WILL NOT get this stuff out. The radiator MUST be replaced if this is the case. Your heater core is probably not in real good shape either, so you should be expecting some heating problems this winter.
If the above is not the correct answer, then you should check to make sure the temperature gauge is not "LYING" to you. This could be caused by a defective gauge, a bad temperature sending unit, or faulty wiring.
The way to check this is with a scan tool that can read engine data and an infrared thermometer. While reading the coolant temperature data from the computer, check the cylinder head temperature with the infrared thermomometer. The readings you get should be within 5 degrees (F) of each other. If the computer data does not match the thermometer within the 5 degrees, then the sending unit for the computer should be replaced.
Then look at the gauge to see if the gauge reading is appropriate to the temperature readings that you took. Normal operating temperature is between 190 and 230 degrees. This should place the gauge at slightly to the right of center to about 5/8thsof the way to HOT. If the readings you took are OK and the gauge is reading higher than this, then you should try replacing the temperature sending unit for the gauge and see if that fixes the problem.
Please note that there are TWO temp sending units: One for the gauge and one for the computer.
FLUSH RADIATOR, HEATER CORE AND ENGINE BLOCK.ADD 50 / 50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER ALSO REPLACE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.IF TEMPERATURE GAUGE STILL STAY HIGH THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR COULD BE FAULTY.
It sounds like your thermostat could be stuck. The thermostat is located inside the upper radiator hose where it connects to the front of the motor. It can be removed to check if that is the problem. Undo the clamp on the upper radiator hose where it attaches on the top front of the motor and pull off the hose. You will see the round thermostat in the "neck" where the hose was mounted. Remove it with a screwdriver. Put the hose back on and clamp it tight. Fill your radiator back up to replace the water you have lost when undoing the radiator hose. Once the water level is full, start the motor and see if it still overheats. If it runs properly without overheating, the problem was the thermostat. Get a new thermostat and replace it where the old one was taken out. Make sure it is reinstalled in the right direction as there is a backwards and forwards on these.
Sounds like a clogged radiator and heater core. Over use of leak sealants, rust, sludge build up or other debris is likely cause. Remember that the heater core and radiator have very small passages and part of the same system of circulation, so what affects one, will affect the other, Try a good system flush before you invest any more money. Also check your temperature control cable for proper operation for your heat issue.Hope this helps.
its inside the heater box and need the whole dash taking out ,pull the two feed pipes off the heater and flush with a garden hose reversing direction of flow ,refill with antifreeze 100% neat ,then if still no joy put a piece of cardboard in front of rad to reduce the cold air flow through teh rad and engine compartment this should do the trick. dont beleave me watch ice road truckers and see what they do to their trucks to keep the temperature up .
Sounds like you may have a problem with your coolant temperature sending unit or thermostat, locate your sending unit, unplug the electrical connector run a jumper wire across the 2 wires inside the connector the gauge should read hot when the jumper wires are connected and when you remove the jumper wire it should go back to cold this verifies your gauge and all related wiring are working properly, if it doesnt work as described you either have a wiring problem or a bad temp gauge, next if your heater output is suffering you more then likely have a weak thermostat staying open or partially open replace the thermostat with a new unit, however if you arent experiencing any heater trouble replace your coolant temperature sending unit because your thermostat is more then likely working properly.....