When the car is cold, stepping on the brakes will blow the brake light 10 amp fuse. After it has ran a short while, the problem goes away. I've tested it with an ohm meter. It reads about 2 ohms, with all bulbs removed, when cold. It reads about 436 ohms withall bulbs removed when warm. Suggestions.
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It sounds like a short in the brake light circuit. When you are hitting the brakes, it is sending power along the positive wire of the circuit and shorting on the ground somewhere in the circuit. They make tools for finding shorts, which consists of an amp meter and circuit breaker. However, you can start by checking all wires that go to the brake lights. Start with the ones that are usually accessible through the trunk. Don't forget to check the third brake light if your vehicle has one. You will also want to check the bulb sockets themselves.
If you keep blowing the brake fuse than you have a short in the system. Unplug the brake switch. Install a new fuse. If it did not blow than the problem is after the brake switch. Next unplug the turn signal switch, then plug the stop light switch back in and press the brake pedal. Did the fuse blow. If not than the wiring is good in between the two switches. With the turn signal switch disconnected use a jumper wire in between the light green wire (power from the brake switch) and the orange with light blue wire (power to the right brake lamp). If the fuse blows than there is a short in the right side brake circuit between the plug in and the rear socket assembly. If the fuse does not blow than jump from the light green wire to the Light green with orange wire (power to the left brake lamp). If the fuse blows than the problem is in the left hand brake wiring circuit.
This all depends, if the fuse blows as soon as you put it in without stepping on the brake pedal then theres a dead short in the fuse box or the power wire going to the brake switch is shorting out, this 15amp fuse runs from the fuseox to brake light switch, so the short is between that but if it blow with brake pedal pushed then you said you dissconnect the rear brake light at fuse box and fuse still blows so the next step inwhich power is feed from this fuse is the following and you will need to unhook these components one at a time until short is gone. the next location is the the abs brake control module which is by the master cylinder area after that it goes to the cruise contorl servo also under the hood, then it goes to the shifter release solenoid which is very common problem, the wires melt or short out in that area, and next it goes to computer which i dont think is the problem and from there it feeds the rear lights and third brake light. hope this helps, good day.
Fuse 12 (10 Amps) may be burned out. Its located in "Junction Block". Losing fuse 12 would kill the ABS systems and light the ABS dashboard light.
Fuse 11 (20 Amps) may be out. Its located in "Power Distribution Center". Losing fuse 11 would kill the brake lights, and light the ABS dashboard light. If fuse 11 is blown, check your (3) brake light sockets for shorts of any type, or fuse 11 will just blow again.
Does the fuse blow without using the lights or only when you step on the brake? Only when you switch to reverse? Only when you turn on the parking lights? Troubleshoot to which lights are causing the fuse to blow, then access the bulb socket to see if it is shorting out. Remove the bulb(s) and look into the socket for corrosion and burning/melting. Replace any sockets that apprear to be damaged. Let me know if you have more questions.
mcdevito75 here, I would try to isolate the problem with the fuse blowing, ---- sit in the car and step on the brake, without the car running see if the fuse blows, the just put the key to on not strat just on see if the fuse is blow, if it is you may have a problem under the dash, if not, now with the key just on no start, step on the brake see if that fuse is blow, if so you may have a problem at the brake light switch under the dash or at the brake lights themselves at the back of your car, a bad ground, loose or broken wire, inspect if you can. The hard or no starting after you drive for a while could be related or a problem with the ignition coils or ignition module. In any event have your local auto re[pair shop check these items out for you, a short could cause real problems in your car.
there is a short circuit in the brake light wiring it could be in the lamp holders them selfs pull off the wires to the brake lights holders on all the lamps and see if it still blows a fuse if it dose then the short is in the loom not the lights them self's if it dont blow a fuse hook up one light at a time untill it starts to blow fuses again the last light to be hooked up that blows the fuse is the faulty light