Question about Toyota Pickup
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It would be extraordinary for a technician to recommend a booster and a master cylinder with no previous mention from you of a possible problem in this area. In other words, the technician had no business looking at the m/cyl or the booster, unless you told him that your braking was deficient.
Here is what REALLY happened: Somewhere, I'd bet, your brake light came on, and somebody "topped off" the master cylinder, to shut the light off. Now, please understand that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir DROPS PROPORTIONALLY to the wear of the brake pads. When the tech replaced the front brake pads, he obviously had to squeeze the caliper pistons into the housings to allow the insertion of the new pads. This action forced the brake fluid from the now-compressed caliper pistons BACK into the master cylinder, and it sprayed out from under the cap, coating the cylinder and the booster. Tell that repair service that you do NOT need a booster and a master cylinder, THEY caused the problem with the fluid being everywhere. I am confident that I just saved you a significent amount of money that you do NOT need to spend. Have a great day.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
this noise is caused by a defective power brake vacuum booster, (big round thing behind the master cylinder) the diaphragm is leaking vacuum.
Posted on May 06, 2009
Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!
Posted on May 15, 2009
SOURCE: bad brakes on gmc suburban,
Gravity bleed your brakes starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. No pweddle pumping. I Fill M/C and leave cover off. Then open the bleeder and watch what is coming out. Uou can see bubbles. When the fluid drips steady and without bubbles, cole and do the same to the other three. Don't let the master cykinder get low because thr fluid level helps move the fluid and air through the lines.Periodically tap the break lone with your wrench to keep everything moving.. When sll bleeders drip clean and steady. Make sore your rear brakes are adjusted to barely touch the drum. Then top off the master cylinder, cap it and give yourself a "break". :)
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
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