Question about Cars & Trucks
The car has 126,000 miles. About two years ago, the cabin noise staring to become noticeably louder. Now while driving between at any speed, but especially below 65 mph, the cabin noise is extremely loud and appears to be coming from the front of the vehicle (either inside the dashboard or under the hood). The noise includes rattlying of the dashbord, the air conditioning vents and around the front window die bars. Interestingly, while driving on the highway, when I take a road that curves toward the left the noise is significantly reduced as if the noise is being amplified by a problem with the cars suspension. Please help with how you think I could tackle this problem and redice cabin noise. I would like ideas before I bring the car to a mechanic and get thrown for a loop.
At that mileage your wheel bearings probably need changing, especially if you haven't been lubricating them whenever you did a brake job! Usually the front wheel bearings, the ones taking the weight from the engine and turning weight transfer to the outside wheels on curves burn out first...do it!!!
Posted on Jan 01, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like the serp belt tensioner to me. Belt and tensioner should fix if confirmed. These engines do leak oil at the timing chain tensioner but it is usually just tolerated.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
well did the noise start after the tires were rotated?could be choppy tires,,,if not ,i strongly think it sounds like a bad wheel bearing,,,,if you drive and while its making the noise turn left and right quick and see if the noise gets louder and which way turning makes it louder,,if you turn leftand it gets louder its usually the right wheels bearing as you are putting load on it, if it makes the noise louder while turning right its the left wheel bearing,,,got it
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
Depending on whether your car is Injected or Carby induction, The aircon system has an IDLE UP circuit which is supposed to raise the Idle while the Aircon Compressor is engaged. The Compressor cycles on & off to charge the system pressure as required. The Idle up system typically uses an IDLE UP SOLENOID which is usually mounted directly on the throttle linkage at the Carby or Throttle body itself, or a Vacuum Solenoid which switches vacuum to a Diaphram which is connected to a linkage on the Carby or Throttle body itself, or a Vacuum Switch which ports air into the throttle body to raise idle (This type on injected vehicles only). It sounds as if the IDLE UP system has failed or is not adjusted properly. Revving the engine spins the compressor faster thus charging the system sufficiently to dis-engage the compressor, which in turn removes the load from the engine, allowing it to idle again. A simple way to test is to disconnect the Aircon clutch wire (make sure it cannot fall into belt) & switch on the Air with the engine running. The RPM should raise typically around 300 RPM. If it doesn't the IDLE UP is not working. Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
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