Question about 2009 Dodge Caliber 2.0
No it isn't
Go to any online parts site or Google the question
You will see all sorts of ball joints for your car & no
need to buy the entire control arm
Posted on Jan 01, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: upper and lower ball joints
Your better off have it done bt a tech because you need a press to press them out and in. Also you will have a warranty witk the work. You want to be safe messing with your steering and suspension. I hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 05, 2008
well when you get a estimate they go by a general book time that it should take they are usally over by an hour or so but not very far off. you could try your self and see how long it takes
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
to remove the axles, remove brake caliper and disc, remove hub assembly, the center hub/axle nut and...(there are i think 3-4 bolts on the back side of the spindle to remove the hub), you may have to force the hub off the spindle with a hammer or air hammer... once the hub is out the axle should slide out of the front differential allowing access to the ball joint nuts for removal...
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
You'll need a joint puller (looks like a big tuning fork). Depending on how it's held on there, you may also need a ring puller, or you may just need to remove the arm and use an impact driver to pound it out. You may even need to replace the whole arm assembly. The uppers on my Tbird are like this.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
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To perform the following procedure, the lower control arm must be removed from the vehicle. Refer to Removal And Installation for that procedure.
NOTE: When installing ball joint in lower control arm, position the ball joint in control arm so notch in ball joint stud is in the direction shown. This will ease assembly of the ball joint to the steering when installing pinch bolt.
CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the sealing boot on the ball joint. Damage to the sealing boot will occur if excessive pressure is applied to the sealing boot when it is being installed.
CAUTION: A replacement ball joint is not pre-lubricated. Properly lubricate the replacement ball joint using Mopar Multi-Mile grease or an equivalent. Lubricate ball joint after seal boot is installed but prior to top of seal boot being pushed down below notch in ball joint stud. Air must vent out of the seal boot at notch when grease is pumped into ball joint, failure to do so will balloon and damage seal boot. Do not over grease the ball joint, this will prevent the seal boot from pushing down on the stud of the ball joint.
CAUTION: After the ball joint is properly greased, clip the end of the grease fleeing off below the hex. The ball joint seal boot is non-purgeable and further greasing is not required and can result in damage to the seal boot.
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