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I have 2003 s430 my heat doesn't work I chance regulator check ground wire check fuse help me

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  • pulat alifov Jan 03, 2013

    My heat doesn't blow air

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  • 21 Answers

Does it blow air at all when you turn it on? If so, then it may be the thermostat or your heater hose. Try checking those. They're two of the most common reasons why a heater will blow cold.

Posted on Dec 31, 2012

  • Siveheart Jan 03, 2013

    In that case, it may be a fan motor. Does it blow air when you run the ac? If so, then the other possibility may be that there's a leak in the system that brings the hot air to the vents.

  • pulat alifov Jan 21, 2013

    No it doesn't blow air at all

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SOURCE: 2003 CROWN VIC HAS NO

DID YOU CHECK THE FUEL PUMP SHUTOFF SAFETY SWITCH ON THE LH/DRIVERS SIDE IN THE TRUNK & MAKE SURE IT IS DOWN ,& EVEN IF IT IS SOMETIMES YOU CAN TAKE SOMETHING & PUSH IT UP & THEN PUSH IT BACK DOWN & IT WILL CRANK,& BELOW THAT SWITCH IN THE TRUNK IS A FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE ,IT MAY BE BAD,THOSE ARE A COUPLE OF THINGS THAT HAVE WORKED FOR ME ,& THATS PRETTY MUCH ALL I DO IS WORK ON FORDS, & LX CROWN VICS & P71 POLICE CROWN VICS WHERE I AM WORKING, HOPE THAT IT MIGHT HELP YOU FIX IT. SEAN

Posted on Dec 05, 2009

Sandpiper99
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SOURCE: Power windows on ford explorer

The main reason for this concern, especially if the door is used quite often and/or the vehicle has higher mileage is a break in the wiring going from the drivers door to the body. If you access this area by pulling the protective rubber back, shine a flashlight on these wires and look for a break (open circuit). look for shiny spots from the open copper wire. The stress from the door opening and closing is what causes the break and often you will find more than one broken wire. It will usually be a heavier gauge wire that doesn't flex as easily. Good luck, if you need more info, please ask.

Posted on Apr 12, 2011

  • 277 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2003 cavalier;and

Before i took the steering wheel off i would locate the horn itself and unplug it and run a straight wire from each battery post and touch one wire to each contacter on the horn to make sure the horns not bad itself. But to take the steering wheel off you have to unbolt the airbag from the back remove it and then you should be able to check the horn contacter without pulling the steering wheel.

Posted on Jul 03, 2011

johnjnail
  • 1702 Answers

SOURCE: 1985 rx7 carburated..

the power for the voltage regulator does go threw the choke check relay, but that is all the relay does if the volatage regulator is working then the relay is fine, the only thing that can cause an over charge is the internal voltage regulator, it must be going into full field mode which is what we do to test the output of the alternator. you will have to replace the regulator. also replace the dioad teiro in side the alternator this is what changes the AC output from the alternator to DC current if it is blown it will cause all kinds of electrical problems with the car, when the rebuild shops rebuild the alternators they test the regulator for proper output but that is all if it test good on the bench they reinstall them in the alternator so if they have one that is going full field only some of the time they will not catch that during the rebuild, most likely that is why the alternator was replaced in the first place and the rebuild shop just instaled new brushes and bearings and tested the output and sent it back out the door and never repaired the problem that it had in the first place, that is why you should never get electrical idems from places like auto-zone go to NAPA or Carquest they replace the regulator on every rebuild that is why they are a little more expenceve but it is will worth it, we will not install any electric idem bought at one of the big discount chains, have seen as many as 3 in a row not work right out of the box. i will post the wiring diagram for you car so you will have some thing to look at wile testing the wiring to the alternator....good luck

let me know if there is any thing else yiu need.


johnjnail_171.jpg

Posted on Jul 19, 2011

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Fuse


This place has a few free TSBs and Wiring Diagrams.
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

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Is there a fuse for the fuel guage?


There is not specific FUSE for fuel gauge; check other components.This is so typical. Many gas gauges don’t work for simple reasons. In would strongly suggest you read this whole document before proceeding. You may want to attack this problem in a different way. Please bear with us. This is a very difficult thing to write. Just a note. Our cars are usually **** pretty well by the time we get them. Make sure your wiring under the dash is in good shape. If it’s not, I would suggest you start there. Having seen some of these chimpanzees at work, you’re liable to find anything under there. Maybe the problem. Most people are apprehensive with auto wiring. It is really quite simple and you can’t get hurt with it. Just remember your body is the ground, and the wires carry the voltage. BUT! There are a few ground wires under the dash too. So be careful when you splice something. Here are the components: Gauge assembly Sending Unit Wiring from fuel tank to dashboard. Dash wiring. Voltage Limiter (Regulator) There are FOUR of the most common problems. 1. Defective Dash Voltage regulator (Voltage limiter) or gauge 2. Lost of a ground at the sending unit 3. Break in the wire going to the dash 4. On some Chryslers, the Bulkhead connector on the firewall or connector behind kick panel. Less Common 1. Actual bad Sending Unit 2. Fuel Gauge defective Tools needed for the basics: Alligator Clip jumper (Make sure it works) Test light probe Radio Shack or equal Multi-meter If removing the gauge cluster, you will need a socket set, a couple of #2 Phillips screw drives and a pair of needle nose. Gas Gauge and Temp gauge doesn’t work. (Reason #1) Let’s ask a simple question here. Does the temp gauge work too? Both the Temp gauge and the fuel gauge use a voltage limiter. Given the way these cares were built, it is hard to get too get to that. But before we dig into this, check the fuse for the instruments. That fuse feeds the voltage limiter. In time, voltage limiters tend to go bad. If one burned out, it may have blown the fuse. Which in a way is a good thing. If the fuse is good and the temp and Fuel don’t work, then chances are it’s one of two things. Lost the ground or the limiter is bad. After you are sure the fuse is good, (Check it with the Key ON), we can go for the checking for a ground to the cluster. If your cluster is back lit, and the dash lights work, chances are you have a good ground to the dash. If it’s front lit like the Mopars of the early 70’s, then we need to check the ground. If you have any lights on the dash, oil light (Idiot Light) turn signal indicator and they work, then a ground is established. If all these things are good, then you have to go for the voltage limiter. This is where the fun starts. Depending on your brail skills, you should be able to at least find it on the back of the cluster. If you can’t, then you’ll need to remove the cluster. A good suggestion here is to make sure you have any other under Dash tasks on a list ready to be done. I strongly advise you disconnect the battery while removing the cluster. Once out, you can reconnect to finish your test.It looks something like this. Since you are going this far, it’s a good idea to just replace the regulator anyway. They are available from NAPA or any decent auto parts store. Most of those chains don’t know anything about it unless it’s in the computer. Remember, you are dealing with people that only need a license to breath in the big chains, Brains weren’t applied for. continue...

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