a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If the truck were newer (1996+) it would have OBDll functionality ... then if the sensor went out ... odds are you would get a check engine light also ... since the signal not only goes to the gauge but to the computer.
I do not know of any easy tests without removing parts.
However .... there may be a chance that it is neither the gauge or sensor but a stuck open thermostat which prevents the engine from heating up ... maybe even after 5 minutes.
There are some things to check the thermostat under cold engine conditions without having to remove parts:
YOur guage is faulty. Your will need to replace your guage if it stays in the hot position even when your car is off and your key is out of the ignition. If it only rises to hot when you turn the key to the run position, you have a wire between your guage and your temp sending unit that has been gounded out. Usually this happens when a person opens their hood to add oil or perform some minor maintenance on the engine and inadvertantly bumps the sensor or switch or wiring. This causes about 65% of these minor issues people incur, but if it does stay all the way up with your key out of the ignition switch, then you will need to replace your temp guage.
Yes , having the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's should always be the first step in diagnostic process when any warning lamps are lit on the instrument cluster . Would be best to have someone with a professional type scanner , that can view engine sensor data . The engine coolant temp. sensor is a input to the PCM - engine computer . Can see what the actual temp. of the engine is . GM had bad stepper motors inside the instrument cluster's 2003 to 2006 , these stepper motors control the gauge needles . Testing what the real temp is an not going by temp gauge . harbor freight tools sells a tool under $30 bucks that can check engine temp .
Infrared Laser Thermometer .. Point it at the thermostat housing . Can use it to tell what temp. the thermostat open .
But , testing is the key ! Not guessing .
I am having the same problem with my 2001 Aztek. I changed the temperature sensor. It worked for a while and now its doing it again. One mechanic told me it problably needs a new thermostat. I might try that. Will try and report. If you have found a solution please let me know.
first i would purchase a new radiator cap 15 lbs 16 lb capacity cost about $7..then you must let car cool completely...now check radiator coolant level.. top off if it needs it. Now install new cap..let car warm up normally and after it get to normal temp range or higher put hand on upper radiator hose..it should feel hot and when you squeeze it you should feel a slight back pressure..this will mean that the thermostat and water pump are working correctly. if not either the thermostat you purchased is defective or your pump may not be working properly. when you use just water in an engine the boiling point becomes 212 when you add the correct amount of antifreeze, depending on where you live, the boiling point will go up to 240 degrees. Make sure you put in the correct amount of mix.50/50 will usually work well. sometimes when a gauge does max out like that it could just be trapped air. if after you checked all this out and no air is trapped in the system, i would think that you may have a bad temp sensor. let me know if this helped thanks.
It sounds like the coolant temperature sensor is beginning to fail. It is highly unlikely that the in-dash gauge is a problem. The coolant temp sensor inputs to the computer affecting everything from radiator fan speed, engine fuel/air calibration and a variety of other parameters.
Be absolutely certain to "burp" every bubble of atmosphere from the coolant system too. Air bubbles have the amazing ability to prevent coolant flow and will cause all sorts of problems, especially if the bubble wants to hang around the temperature sensor location.
Normal operating temperature is going to be around 210 F.
Most Autozone, Advance locations will read engine problem codes at no charge, so drop by one of those locations and let them read the problem code.
My guess will be the coolant temperature sensor. Then have the problem code reset, remove all air from the coolant and let us know how this worked.
This is a very common problem with many of the mid 90 - 2000 era import
vehicles. The clock modules are very prone to internal failure. I offer
a reasonable repair service with a lifetime guarantee, check it out:
There is a bunch of useful info there. Drop me an email if you have questions, thanks!
For general awareness, the outside air temperature sensor is located above the inside mirror. Try to reset the temperature measurement unit:1. Switch engine on.2. Press and hold clock minute (min) and hour (h) buttons simultaneoutly longer than 3 seconds. The display will show new temperature measurement unit.