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Caliper bracket mounting bolts are stuck ,witch way to turn to take off

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2007 dodge grand caravan

where are the bolts to remove the caliber on the rear brakes for a 2007 dodge caravan?

Posted on May 02, 2010

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Where can i find rear caliper carrier mounting bolts for peugeot 407

On the back side of the brakes, will be 2 bolts attached to steering knuckle. You have 2 ways to remove it. You can take the 2 bolts that hold the caliper onto the caliper mounting bracket, usually a rubber boot on them, then remove the caliper. At that point, you'll have easier access to the 2 remaining bolts that screw into the knuckle. The other option is just remove the whole assembly, remove the 2 bolts in the mounting bracket to remove the whole thing.

Mar 24, 2015 | Peugeot Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Does the caliper mounting braket bolts slide into the caliper to enable the caliper to slide over the extra thickness of the new brake pads? I have already got the caliper all the way in but it still won't...

Do you have the actual caliper piston fully pushed into the rear of the caliper? Not the bolts, the piston. It's in the center of the caliper and about as big around as the bottom of a tin can.

Mar 23, 2011 | 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cabs

1 Answer

How to change front brake pads on 2003 Chevy Suburban

Disc Brake Pads for Suburban 1500 Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
Front caliper mounting bracket 93086g95.gif

  1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon out 2/3 of the fluid. This step prevents spilling fluid when the piston is pushed back into the caliper bore.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  4. Compress the brake piston back into its bore using a C-clamp.
  5. Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts. Lift the caliper off the rotor.
  6. Remove the inboard and outboard pad.
  7. Remove and discard the anti-rattle clips.
To Install:
Caliper bracket sleeves 93086g97.gif

  1. Thoroughly inspect, clean and lubricate all caliper slide points, bolts and hardware.
  2. Install new anti-rattle clips.
  3. Position the inboard and outboard pads into the support bracket
  4. With the 2 pads in position, place the caliper over the brake rotor and align the holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
  5. Install the caliper mounting bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears and into the mounting bracket.
  6. Tighten the mounting bolts to: 80 lb. ft, (110 Nm).
  7. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Lower the vehicle.
  8. Add fluid to the master cylinder reservoirs so they are 1/4 in. (6.35mm) from the top.
  9. Test the brake pedal by pumping it to obtain a hard pedal. Check the fluid level and add fluid as necessary.
Rear To Remove:
  1. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  4. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts. Suspend the caliper from the frame with mechanic's wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
  5. Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket.
  6. Remove and discard the anti-rattle clips.
Rear brake caliper 93086g96.gif

To Install:
  1. Install new anti-rattle clips.
  2. Position the brake pads to the caliper mounting bracket.
  3. With the 2 pads in position, place the caliper over the brake rotor and align the holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
  4. Install NEW caliper mounting bolts. Tighten to: 30 lb. ft, (40 Nm).
  5. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
  6. Lower the vehicle.
  7. Refill the master cylinder to the proper level with fresh brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly to seat the brake pads. Burnish the brakes as needed.
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Jul 05, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Suburban

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How do i change front brake pads on 2006 malibu maxx?

You shouldn't need any thing more then a jack, jack stand, 4-way (to remove the wheel) a few wrenches, socket set, large flat head screw driver, a wire brush, metal coat hanger, a small container for bolts and a c-clamp.
You will also want to have some caliper lube, brake parts cleaner, lock-tight(if replacing rotors) & brake fluid; be sure to check the type of brake fluid your car takes. It will be on top of the brake fluid reservoirs cap. It should be DOT3 but could be DOT4. Although most DOT4 brake fluids are designed for DOT3 or DOT4. I always buy DOT4. One last thing you may want is some heavy-duty latex mechanic's gloves they keep your hands clean and protected. Plus you won't be picking grease out of the underside of your finger nails days later.
Buy high quality parts. Remember this is your brakes and your saving money by doing it yourself. You like stopping don't you? So fork out the extra on a better set of pads. I prefer and try to use nothing but Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramic Disc Brake Pad. I have never had any complaints. They don't over heat fast like all cheap pads out their. They are very quiet. They don't make your wheels turn black. You get 3 times the life. They usually cost around $50.00. So they are well worth the extra money. Advance and Bumper to Bumper sell them.
First do one side at a time DON'T RUSH. Place the car on a hard level surface. A small trick is before jacking turn the wheel toward the side you are about to work on. Place the jack under the car and find a safe place on the car to use as a lift point. Jack until the jack is just lifting the car then break the wheel lug nuts loose. DON'T take them off yet just turn them counter clock wise about 3/4 of a turn.
Now jack the car until the tire is a few inches off the ground. Place the jack stand under the car in a safe location. Now lower the car until the car just touches the jack stand. Make sure your tire is still off the ground. Now remove the lug nuts & wheel. Place the wheel off to the side and the lug nuts in your container.
<u>Top off you brake fluid before counting.</u>
Now if you have a big enough c-clamp place it on the caliper like in the image. If its not big enough just continue.
<u>This step is important this will prevent damage to you abs system!</u>
Break the bleeder screw loose (be careful if needed tap the caliper with hammer while trying to loosen the screw) Once fluid dribbles from the screw it's loose enough don't remove the screw.
If you don't want a mess click here to learn how to make a brake fluid catch can. You could just use a drain pan but you will most likely make a small mess.
If your c-clamp didn't fit skip this step:
If your c-clamp fit you should now tighten it until the caliper puck is completely back into the caliper. This is done by hand once the c-clamp quits turning you should be good. Don't use a wrench for leverage. If it doesn't turn by hand your caliper maybe stuck. This would require replacement. Now that the piston in all the way back tighten the bleeder screw.
If your c-clamp fit skip this step:
Take your large flat head screw driver and place it into the hole shown in the image. (make sure the bleeder is open)Get the tip of the screw driver on the rotor then pry back. This should create some space between the pads and the rotor. This will help get the caliper off.
Check your brake fluid DON'T LET IT GO EMPTY. If you had the big c-clamp the bleeder should be closed now. If you had the small one the bleeder should still be open. So keep an eye on the fluid level.
Now you can remove the caliber mounting bolts (shown in the image above). To do this you may need to use a two wrenches or a wrench and a socket. The caliper bolts, bolt in to the slides. When loosening the bolts it's possible for the slides to turn with the bolt. To prevent this just use a wrench on the hex part of the slide. Also loosen one bolt a couple turns then remove the other bolt. Then go back to the first one and remove it. Don't try to remove one bolt with out the other being loose. Be sure to place the bolts in the container.
Take your coat hanger, using the hook part hang it from the spring, then pull down on the bottom to stretch the hanger. Remove the caliper and hang it from the coat hanger. Make sure not to put much pressure on the brake lines (i.e. pulling on, hanging on or dropping the caliper) the brake line isn't that strong and will break.
Now pull out the pads and remove the slides. Remember witch slide came from the top and witch from the bottom. They should be different. One will have a rubber ring on the end. Then place them in you container. Use the wire brush to clean the contact points were the pads were. Use a rag and brake parts cleaner to clean the slides.
If you had the big c-clamp skip the step:
Take one of the old brake pads, place it on the caliper puck then install the c-clamp as shown in image. Tighten down c-clamp using your hand only until it stops. Don't use a wrench for leverage. If it doesn't turn by hand your caliper maybe stuck. This would require replacement. Once the puck is pushed all the way in, tighten the bleeder screw in. Now you can put the c-clamp off to the side and trash the old pads.
If you plan to replace the rotors. Witch is a good idea sense rotors now a days are to thin to turn 99 out of 100 times. Also I believe GM said not to turn their rotors. Just replace them. They have become cheap. Think of it as insurance you don't want to re-due this job in a few months, because of a shake when you hit the brakes, Right?. Remove the two bolts on the caliper mounting bracket. Be sure to loosen one of the bolts a little (about three turns) then remove the other, then go back to the first to remove it. You may need a large strong arm to do this. Put you bolts in your container. Once the bracket is removed take off the rotor. Open the box with the new rotor then remove the rotor from the plastic. The new rotor is coated in oil for shipping to prevent rust. So you need to get all of it off. Spray the rotor down with brake parts cleaner. Then use a rag to wipe it down. You may need to do this a could of times. Now install the new rotor then the caliper mounting bracket. I always use some lock-tight on the caliper mounting bracket bolts. I have seen them come loose. So use a little blue lock-tight and torque these two bolts down.
Take the new pads and install them. Apply some caliper lube to the slides. Install the slides back in the mounting bracket. Reinstall the caliper. When tightening the caliper bolts be ready with a wrench to keep the slides from turning.
Install your wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Lower the car and move over to the other side. Follow the same steps on that side.
Once the brakes are on both sides, the wheels are tightened and the car is down. Recheck the brake fluid. Then pump up the brakes. Then recheck the brake fluid. If you fail to perform this last step of pumping up the brakes you will have NO BRAKES! Also be sure to recheck the fluid before and after. If not you could get air in the line. That will cause weak brakes.


* caliper to bracket bolts - 26Ft.-lbs
* caliper bracket to knuckle - 85Ft.-lbs

This is information only; Brakes should be replaced or repaired at a certified shop. Brakes installed by unqualified persons should be inspected by a qualified mechanic before driving the vehicle.

Apr 30, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet Malibu

2 Answers

Brake job torque spec

Caliper bolt 25 ft lbs/ caliper bracket bolt 79.6 ft lbs

Nov 13, 2009 | 2005 Honda Civic

1 Answer

How do I remove the front rotors from my 1999 honda accord

Removal & Installation

After removing the caliper body, unfasten the retaining bolts and remove the caliper mounting bracket, in order to remove the rotor

  1. Use a siphon or clean turkey baster to remove about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle and remove the tire/wheel assembly.
  3. Remove the caliper mounting bolts, then lift the caliper assembly away from the brake rotor.
  4. Use a suitable piece of wire to suspend the caliper assembly. This will prevent the weight of the caliper from being supported by the brake flex hose which will damage the hose.
  5. Once the caliper body and brake pads are removed, unfasten the caliper bracket mounting bolts, then remove the bracket from the rotor.
  6. Remove the rotor retaining screws.
  7. Remove the brake rotor by pulling it straight off the wheel mounting studs or if seized in place, remove the stubborn brake rotor by threading in two 8 x 1.25mm bolts, two turns at a time until the brake rotor is released.
To install:
  1. If necessary, completely retract the piston into the caliper using a large C-clamp or other suitable tool as provided in the front disc brake pad replacement procedures in this section.
  2. Install the brake rotor onto the wheel hub and tighten the mounting screws.
  3. Install the caliper mounting bracket and secure with the retaining bolts.
  4. Install the caliper and pad assembly over the brake rotor and mounting bracket and install the mounting bolts.
  5. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with fresh brake fluid.
  6. Install the tire/wheel assembly and lower the vehicle.
  7. Pump the brake pedal until the brake pads are seated and a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.
CAUTION Do not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained.

  1. Road test the vehicle to check for proper brake operation.

Nov 01, 2009 | 1999 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Silverado 1500 Z71 off road, 5.3L. Details on fr

This is for the front: Removal & Installation
  1. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Wheel
    • Caliper. Suspend the caliper from the frame with mechanic's wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
    • Caliper mounting bracket bolts
    • Caliper mounting bracket from the steering knuckle assembly
    • Brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket
    • Clips from the inside ends of the caliper mounting bracket and discard
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Clips to the inside ends of the caliper mounting bracket
    • Brake pads to the caliper mounting bracket
    • Inner pad (1 wear indicator)
    • Outer pad (2 wear indicators)
    • Caliper mounting bracket to the steering knuckle assembly
  2. Perform the following procedure before installing the caliper mounting bracket bolts:
    • Remove all traces of the original adhesive patch.
    • Clean the threads of the bolt with brake parts cleaner or the equivalent and allow to dry.
    • Apply red Loctite®272 to the threads of the bolt.
  3. Install or connect the following:
    • Caliper mounting bracket bolts to the steering knuckle. Tighten the caliper guide pin bolts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 15 series or 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) on 25/35 series.
    • Caliper
    • Tire and wheel assembly
  4. Refill the master cylinder to the proper level with fresh brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly in order to seat the brake pads. Burnish the brakes as needed.

Oct 12, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

How to replace rear brakes on a 2006 chrysler minivan

take the wheels off the front,,remove the 2 bolts holding the brakes caliper to the caliper mount and pull off the caliper,then remove the old pads by popping them out, and the remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket to the hub and then remove the rotor,,,to either resurface it,,or replace it with a new one,,,the put the rotor back on(new one) install the mounting bracket and pads and press the caliper piston in with a pliers and then put it back onto the mounting bracket and then tighten all bolts,and do the other side,,pump up brakes and youre good to go

Oct 08, 2009 | 2006 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

Need the correct torque specs for 2004 silverado 1500 calipers

  • Tighten the 2 brake caliper mounting bolts to 108 Nm (80 ft. lbs.) . Caliper Mounting Bracket to Knuckle, Front (15 series) 175 Nm (129 ft. lbs.) Caliper Mounting Bracket to Knuckle, Front (25/35 series) 300 Nm (221 ft. lbs.) Brake Caliper Mounting Bolt Rear (15 series) 42 Nm (31 ft. lbs.) Brake Caliper Mounting Bolt Rear (25/35 series) 108 Nm (80 ft. lbs.) Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolt Rear (JC5/JH5) 200 Nm (148 ft. lbs.) Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolt Rear (JH6) 165 Nm (122 ft. lbs.) Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolt Rear (JH7) 300 Nm (221 ft. lbs.) Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolt Rear (NYS) 200 Nm (148 ft. lbs.)
    hope this helps
  • Mar 28, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet Silverado

    1 Answer

    1998 honda civic front rotor replacement

    Varvah, front rotor: Jack up the car, put on safety stands, remove wheel, remove caliper mounting bolts (2), hang caliper in place w/ bungy cord, rope, etc. so you don't stress the brake line, remove caliper mounting bracket bolts, remove bracket from rotor, remove retaining screws on the front of the rotor, remove rotor. If it's stuck, get 2 - 8x 1.25 mm screws (longer version of what u removed), tighten them in the rotor, they will push it off easily. Reverse to install, tighten bracket to 80 ft lbs, caliper to 20 ft lbs. Let me know if u need more info. Countrycurt0

    Oct 09, 2008 | 1998 Honda Civic

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