Question about 1989 Dodge Daytona
Replace heater core in 89 dodge daytona e/s no turbo?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
a lot of pain and heart ache. even on a rack they are a pain . check with your dealer there wae a recall on them for failing its worth the phone call to see kdc744
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
first off, disconnect your battery for at least 30 min before touching any plugs or harnesses. next, bleed your A/C and disconnect the quick connects that go inside the firewall. drain your coolant, and disconnect hoses from firewall. note a certain bolt with nut on it that is going to the inside of the firewall, you'll need to take that off when you get to the airbox inside the truck which houses your heater core. next, take off the pillar handles next to the windshield, then pop off the plastic dash panel with defroster vents. there are a few bolts up there that need to be taken out all the way across. next, take off your glove box. remove plastic below the drink carrier. there are 2 bolts there on left and right once you remove the plastic. there's a yellow or red AirBag plug which you may or may not need to disconnect later. next, drop down the whole steering wheel column. 4 bolts I believe. look up under there on both sides, you will see a 2inch piece of tubing that goes from each side of the truck. your dash and everything you see in front of you is connected to that tube. find on each side of the truck where that tube is mounted to the body with brackets. There are 2-3 bolts on each side I think. When you get those out, and the steering wheel is sitting in the seat or on the floor, the whole dash and panel should tilt and lay on the seats. there are wires from your a/c controls and radio which you'll have to disconnect and some various other wires as well. I also think you'll have to disconnect a harness plug with bolt in it on the drivers side. (white) after you've done all that and don't have the dash and panel in a bind with wire hangups you can now get to the air box. I don't remember how many bolts, but don't forget the one in the engine bay going to it also. get the box unbolted, then roll it up, remove 2 clips holding the heater core in, replace heater core and do this whole process backwards. Hopefully you didn't lose any screws or bolts. charge your a/c, replace coolant, make sure all plugs are connected before connecting power. Should save you $400-$500 in labor.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
It has been a long time since I've replaced one of those. From what I remember you don't have to go through pulling the heater box out. You do need to remove the glove box assembly. Look up under the passenger side of the dash. If you see the bulge of the motor/cover hanging straight down then remove the cover and the motor will be there. If you don't see that then te motor is mounted horizonally. If that is the case then the fresh air door assembly will need to be removed and it is behind that.
Here is a quick check to see if the motor is bad. Thump the bottom of the heater box by the passenger's feet. if the motor comes alive or makes noise then it is bad. Also check the fuse and make sure that it doesn't work on any speed. (the resistor would prevent operation on only one speed or more but generally not all speeds)
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
May not apply to yours, but I have seen coolant lines routed under intake (actually through plenum below carb)...the idea is to pre-heat and vaporize fuel to prevent "puddling" under carb. If you look at most v8 engines, exhaust is routed the same way, to do the same job. You may need to use a mirror to see under there to determine exactly what's going thats causing leak.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
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