My ignition key broke in half and I need to be able to unlock the steering column. The key inserts, but won't unlock. Is there a quick fix for this before changing the tumblers? I only have the one key Help!
SOURCE: open broken trunk
There are 2 possibilities. 1. Persuade it from the outside. Depending on the damage you might be able to just stick a large screwdriver in to the tumbler and turn it clockwise. OR if the rest of the lock and tumbler can be removed without further damage to the metal around it then remove it. You can then shine a flash light in and see a small rectangle where the lock rod used to go in to. Use a screw driver to unlock the trunk by inserting it in to the rectangle and turning clockwise. 2. Remove the back seat. If you can't remove the rest of the lock cylinder, then you'll have to remove the back seat, crawl through the trunk and use a pair of pliers to grab and twist the lock rod that goes through the trunk lock. To remove the rear set you first push backwards and lift up on the bottom seat frame. You'll need to apply force to the lowest point possible on the frame. Tt is easiest to do one side at a time. Sometimes if you look under the seat you can see where the seat frame hooks in to the body of the car. Once the lower seat cusion is out you'll need to unbolt the lower corners of the seat. I believe on this car the bolts that hold the lower part of the upper seat cushion also hold in the seat belts. Seat Belt bolts require a large TORX bit. You might also need an impact wrench to get the seatbelt bolts out. I have seen people rip the seat back away from the bolts as it is only paperboard between the seat and bolt. Keep in mind though if you do this you will not be able to properly reinstall the seat and that could be hazardous in a sudden stop or accident. Once the seat back is unbolted it lifts off of a couple of hooks on the body. Then you'll need to remove some insulating materials and finally you can crawl in to the trunk.
SOURCE: Automobile electrical problem
I hate to say it but GM "W" bodies of that time period ( Regal, Cutlass Supreme, Lumina, and Grand Prix) are notorious for turn signal problems. I'm a machanic and also have owned 3 W body vehicles. The pivot bushing in the switch wears prematurely and in turn causes the copper contacts to barely touch each other. If the contacts are dirty, there is resistance. Where there is resistance, there is heat, hence the smoke. It's just a poor design. What I do instead of replacing the switch requires some time and some surgical skill but it always works for me. At the pivot end of the switch, I remove the screw and remove the metal tube insert. I wrap the metal with electrical tape to take up the slack from the wear then grease the heck out of it. At the contact end I attach a piece of sheet metal to the bottom of the movable part of the switch so it sits underneath the non-moveable part making it so the moveable part can't lift up and lose contact. That's just a vague description but if you want a detailed one let me know and I'll write one. I did it to my '89 Regal 4 yrs. ago and to my wife's Grand Prix 1 yr. ago and they both still work great. Just a design flaw in the switch. Sometimes you have to pick up wher the car companies left off! beest921
SOURCE: power steering fluid on grand prix
You should add it to the power steering pump reservoir, which if you have the 3800 series II its behind the engine on the passenger side.
SOURCE: need to view steering column diagram for grand prix 02
call gm parts department they can fax you a copy of it
SOURCE: 1997 pontiac grand prix key won t turn ignition
well does the key go in does it turn to the start pos? if the dash dost power up its because the switch is bad if it will power up but not start it can be becuse of the resitor chip depends on what is going on if you cant get power its becuse of the switch
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