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Although many people believe that the order makes a difference in their particular vehicle, there are many others who service many different makes and models of vehicles and generally conclude that the order makes no difference.
"I have investigated this brake bleeding sequence controversy and went interviewing professional mechanics from Porsche, Mercedes Benz, Toyota, Volkswagen etc. including from Pep Boys just to get to the bottom of the story. If you use the pressure or vacuum bleeding or the manual pedal method correctly, the sequence does not matter.
So I built a test rig using clear and transparent brake lines with 4 different color brake fluids. Whether you start from the farthest or the nearest brake caliper, the brake system could be bled correctly without compromising safety. This is a myth (RR, LR, FR, FL sequence) that has been accepted by most people.
What I found out was that people who use the farthest method sequence have not tried other sequences because they believe it is the only way to do it. While others who used random bleeding succesfully know sequence is not mandatory."
I'm a "random bleeder" myself, and have never had a problem. I simply proceed either clockwise or anti-clockwise around the car, for simplicity.
The proper sequence to bleeding any brakes, are usually to do the one farthest away from the master cyl. first, and continue till ur at the last one. (left front). Rear brakes, then to the front brakes!
If you have a manual for your vehicle, check how to bleed the system. Certain vehicles need to be bled in a certain order of sequence. If you are using a one man bleeding kit, when you don't see air bubbles in the clear tube but see only fluid, then it is bled properly.
What kind of vacuum bleeder? Is it an air powered type? I have found that with too much vacuum the brakes would not bleed properly. The air powered type had a valve where I could use a small amount of vacuum to work better. I preffer reverse pressure. It naturally pushes the air bubble up through the system and out the master (air rises to the highest point out which would be the master).
Try just opening the bleeder and letting it gravity bleed. One you get a good amount of fluid you can finish off with a vacuum bleed.
make sure you bleed the brakes in the proper sequence RF,LR,LF,RR. do this a few times and check the fluid. most times the truck has to be driven for the ABS to activate and the pedal to get firm. BE CAREFUL.
This job is a lot easier with two people but you can do it with 1 if you have to. Have someone sit inside and pump the brakes 3 or 4 times and on the 4th pump hold it to the floor(all the way to the floor and don't let up at all). While they hold it to the floor you take a little end wrench and (Starting on driver side front going to pass. front next then pass. back and so on) you should already have the tire off before pumping brakes. On the caliper(the thing that holds the pads) there is a little bleeder nut Should be near where your brake line goes into the caliper. Now while they hold the pedal down you loosen that nut just a little bit and it should spit a little bit then maybe some fluid will come out maybe not on the first time but it does happen. Just dont leave it open longer than a couple seconds. Just long enough for air to escape then tighten back down. Repeat all those steps about 4 or 5 times for each tire or until brake pedal feels hard to push in. Make sure while your bleeding that you check your master cylinder often if you let it run out u will have to start over from the beginning. Also make sure who ever is holding the pedal do not let up when bleeder valve is open. Same thing. I just wantedn to m
The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS
vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For
details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures
later in this section.
Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold
it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master
cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until
all air is removed from the master cylinder.
Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the
vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill,
immediately flush the area with water.
If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line
disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by
that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then
all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake
pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the
brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the
caliper or cylinder.
When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If
the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is
Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder
Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid
Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system
Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.
normally, the brakes are bled starting from the furthest brake to the closest with respect to the master brake cylinder. the sequence is : right rear, left rear, right front, left front. pump the brakes until pressure is built up. do this rather slowly. while keeping downward pressure on the pedal, open the bleed screw slowly. the pedal will go to the floor. hold the pedal on the floor and tighten the bleed screw. do this until no air is observed. keep the reservoir. repeat with the rest of the brakes following in sequence
have you had problems getting pressure to the rear brakes before? if yes it is proportion valve problem if no try to sequence bleed the entire system starting with tire left rear, right rear, left front, right front. do the sequence 2-3 times.
Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.