Question about 1992 Toyota 4Runner

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Clutch replacement PROBLEM

How to REMOVE exhaust support bracket that has been "heat" welded on to vehicle...very little room to maneuver in.

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Take a shallow socket, universal swivel and some extensions, as well as a breaker bar. twist it in the CounterClockWise direction. After you have the transmission removed, clean the threads up with a tap and replace the 14mm bolt holding it in. if you do break it coming out, no worries, just drill a pilot hole in the bolt, and use an easy out or screw extractor to get the rest. Tap the threads and replace the bolt.

Posted on Jun 10, 2013

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How do I replace the clutch?


step 2, remove trans-axle. (im assUming stick shift, as both have clutches.) it's only tedious no tricks or rabbits out of hat.
why not youtube others doing this first. see if its "easy for you" first.

so what does it say there. on that #2 step in FSM.book

answer for STICK shift car.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain the transaxle oil.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Clutch operating cylinder with hose still attached
    • Gear control cables
    • All the wiring harness clamps and connectors involved with the transaxle removal, tag if necessary for location to aid during installation
    • Ground cable at the transaxle
    • Starter
    • Exhaust No. 1 pipe bolts
  5. Support engine with lifting device.
    • Engine under covers
    • Exhaust No. 1 pipe and exhaust No. 2 pipe
    • Lower stiffener
    • Left and right ball joints from steering knuckles
    • Drive shaft joints
    • Center shaft support and center shaft
    • Dynamic damper
    • Engine rear mounting
    • Engine rear mounting No. 1 bracket with No. 2 bracket
    • Transaxle to engine bolts and nut
  6. Support transaxle with a transmission jack.
    • Left engine mounting with bracket
  7. Remove any remaining attached parts from the transaxle.
  8. Pull transaxle out so as to disconnect the input shaft from the clutch disc and then remove it.
then the install.'
lots more steps and torque settings. RTM?

Apr 17, 2015 | 2006 Suzuki Aerio

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2005 Toyota Highlander_Change spark plugs


I agree with the previous answer that this a very time consuming job. It took me 2+ hours. I would correct a couple of statements in his answer. He refers to reaching around and behind an exhaust manifold while changing the plugs, but actually if you are working from above the engine (not below) you will be reaching around and behind the intake manifold (not exhaust) during this process. <br /> As he said, the front 3 are very easy - just remove the plastic cover plate and the coils are visible - remove one short bolt, pull the coil off, and using a long extension and a spark plug socket with a rubber insert you can remove the plugs and replace with new ones. <br /> The back 3 are very, very difficult. I did look from underneath the <a href="http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_spark_plugs_in_a_2002_Toyota_Highlander#">car</a> and I don't see any way to get to them even if the exhaust manifold was removed. I do believe the best way is from the top. As the previous answer related room to maneuver wrenches and your hands / fingers is very limited. I did remove a couple of minor brackets and hoses and the cruise control wire to get a little more room. Of course, as with the front, you have to remove each individual coil. Also - I believe two tools are critical. First - a small size "stubby" ratchet with a flexible head. You CAN use this type of small flexible ratchet to do the removal and install instead of all finger movement. Second - you need a number of small extensions.... in the 1" - 4" range... why??? because the rear plugs are also "deep" but there is no room to feed a single long extension down between the firewall and the engine head. So - you have to feed the spark plug socket and one short extension, and then feed in another one, and then a 3rd one if necessary until you get enough length to connect the socket to the plug, and the top extension to the ratchet. To remove the extensions - work in reverse.. pull the "assembly" out a little, remove one short extension, pull out further, remove another, etc until you get to the spark plug socket. On the 3 rear plugs - for two of the plugs you work from "your right" side of the intake manifold, or from the driver's side. For the final plug, on the passenger side, work from your left side of the intake manifold. On both sides remove minor hoses or brackets to get a little more room - just be sure to hook them back up.<br /><br />

on Jan 26, 2011 | Toyota Highlander Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove motor mounts on a 1992 lincoln


Remove the starter motor with a ratchet and socket and then unplug any electrical connectors from sensors or components attached to the transmission. Remove the sensors and components with a ratchet and socket.
Remove the header-exhaust pipe with a breaker bar and socket, if you believe you will need more room to secure and maneuver the transmission out of the vehicle.
Unfasten the transmission to mount, mount to crossmember and crossmember to frame bolts with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Detach any brackets from the bell housing or rear of the transmission housing with a ratchet and socket. Secure the transmission with a transmission jack and raise the transmission just enough to remove the mount and crossmember supporting the transmission.
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Oct 17, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Trying to change a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo v6 2WD starter and I'm looking for step by step instructions. Help?


1. Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands.
3. If you can reach them, disconnect the battery cable and solenoid connector from the starter motor solenoid. On some engines the terminals are difficult to reach while the starter is installed; it's actually easier to unbolt the starter, pull it out to point where you can reach and disconnect the cables.
4. Remove the starter motor bolts and detach the starter from the engine. Having socket swivels and extensions, along with angled wrenches, will make this job easier. Depending upon the year and engine type, the starter may be mounted above the transmission or below the intake manifold. On some models it may be necessary to remove the exhaust system to make room for the starter assembly to pass between the engine and chassis. Make sure the engine and exhaust system are cool before starting. I found that once you get the cables off, you have a better chance to remove the starter motor without removing the exhaust system. If you have to mess with the exhaust system, just loosen enough to allow clearance.
5. Install in the reverse order. If it was necessary to remove the starter to disconnect the cables, remember to maneuver the replacement starter in place, ensuring that you have the necessary access/clearance through the exhaust system, and reconnect the cables prior to bolting the starter in place.
6. Be patient. With the right tools and a little luck this shouldn't take more than an hour once you have the vehicle on jack stands and the engine has cool. It

Nov 16, 2010 | 1998 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

I need to know how to take the power steering off a 1997 dodge caravan?


Power Steering Pump-Let me know if you need to take the power steering gear off: Removal & Installation 2.4L Engine To Remove:
  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
    • Remove as much fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir using a siphon pump.
    • Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump.
    • Loosen the nut securing the front power steering pump bracket to the aluminum bracket.
    • Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    • Place a drain pan under the vehicle to catch the power steering fluid.
    • Disconnect the connector from the oxygen sensor at the rear engine mount bracket. NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be moved to allow room for power steering pump removal.
    • Remove the bolts and nuts securing the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold.
    • Disconnect the exhaust system hangers from the brackets. Move the exhaust system rearward and left as far as possible.
    • Raise the heat sleeve to expose the clamp and then disconnect the fluid return hose from the steel tube. Allow the fluid to drain.
    • Remove the accessory drive splash shield.
    • Remove the supply hose coming from the reservoir from the power steering pump. Drain the fluid from the hose.
    • Disconnect the pressure hose from the pump. Drain off excess fluid from the hose.
    • Remove the return hose from the pump. Allow the fluid to drain from the tube.
    • Remove the nut from the rear of the pump to the cast mounting bracket.
    • Loosen the three bolts securing the pump to the front mounting bracket. Then remove the nut and remaining bolt.
    • Remove the power steering pump and the front bracket from the cast bracket on the engine as an assembly through the exhaust tunnel.
    • Remove the three bolts attaching the front bracket to the power steering pump and separate the power steering pump from the front bracket.
To Install:
  1. Install the power steering pump through the exhaust tunnel of the vehicle.
  2. Loosely install the nut on the rear of the pump to hold the pump to the bracket.
  3. Install the front bracket on the pump and install the three bolts loosely.
  4. Install the nut and bolt securing the bracket to the cast bracket.
  5. Tighten the three front bracket-to-pump bolts to 40 ft. lb. (54 Nm).
  6. Connect the pressure hose to the power steering pump. Make sure to inspect the o-ring and replace as needed. Tighten the fitting to 275 in. lb. (31 Nm).
  7. Connect the low pressure return hose to the power steering pump.
  8. Connect the supply hose from the reservoir to the pump. Make sure the hose is not near drive belt.
  9. Install the drive belt and splash shield.
  10. Connect the fluid return hose to the steel tube on the cradle and cover with the heat shield sleeve.
  11. Properly position the protective heat sleeve over the return hose. Secure the heat sleeve with a tie strap to the hose to keep it in place.
  12. Install the exhaust system.
  13. Connect the oxygen sensor wiring connector to the vehicle wiring harness.
  14. Lower the vehicle.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Fill and bleed the power steering system.
  17. Check for leaks.
3.0L Engine To Remove:
  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove as much fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir using a siphon pump.
  3. Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Place a drain pan under the vehicle to catch the power steering fluid.
  6. Disconnect the connector from the oxygen sensor at the sensor wiring harness grommet on the floor pan. NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be moved to allow room for power steering pump removal.
  7. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold.
  8. Disconnect the exhaust system hangers from the brackets. Move the exhaust system rearward and left as far as possible.
  9. Raise the heat sleeve to expose the clamp and then disconnect the fluid return hose from the steel tube. Allow the fluid to drain.
  10. Remove the accessory drive splash shield.
  11. Remove the supply hose coming from the reservoir from the power steering pump. Drain the fluid from the hose.
  12. Disconnect the pressure hose from the pump. Drain off excess fluid from the hose.
  13. Remove the two bolts securing the pump to the alternator/power steering pump/belt tensioner bracket.
  14. Remove the pump from the bracket and remove it from the vehicle through the exhaust tunnel on the floor pan.
To Install:
  1. Install the power steering pump through the exhaust tunnel of the vehicle.
  2. Install the pump on the bracket with the two mounting bolts. Tighten the two bolts to 40 ft. lb. (54 Nm).
  3. Install the pump rear support bracket. Tighten the nut and bolts to 40 ft. lb. (54 Nm).
  4. Connect the pressure hose to the power steering pump. Make sure to inspect the o-ring and replace as needed. Tighten the fitting to 275 in. lb. (31 Nm).
  5. Connect the low pressure return hose to the power steering pump.
  6. Connect the supply hose from the reservoir to the pump. Make sure the hose is not near drive belt.
  7. Install the drive belt and splash shield.
  8. Connect the fluid return hose to the steel tube on the cradle and cover with the heat shield sleeve.
  9. Properly position the protective heat sleeve over the return hose. Secure the heat sleeve with a tie strap to the hose to keep it in place.
  10. Install the exhaust system.
  11. Connect the oxygen sensor wiring connector to the vehicle wiring harness.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Connect the negative battery cable.
  14. Fill and bleed the power steering system.
  15. Check for leaks.
3.3L & 3.8L Engines To Remove:
  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove as much fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir using a siphon pump.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Disconnect the connector from the oxygen sensor at the sensor wiring harness grommet on the floor pan. NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be moved to allow room for power steering pump removal.
  5. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold.
  6. Disconnect the exhaust system hangers from the brackets. Move the exhaust system rearward and left as far as possible.
  7. Place a drain pan under the vehicle to catch the power steering fluid.
  8. Raise the heat sleeve to expose the clamp and then disconnect the fluid return hose from the steel tube on the cradle. Allow the fluid to drain into the pan.
  9. Remove the accessory drive splash shield.
  10. Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump.
  11. Remove the supply hose coming from the reservoir from the power steering pump. Drain the fluid from the hose.
  12. Disconnect the pressure hose from the pump. Drain off excess fluid from the hose.
  13. Disconnect the return hose from the pump. Drain the fluid into the drain pan.
  14. Remove the power steering pump rear support bracket.
  15. Remove the three bolts securing the pump to the alternator/power steering pump/belt tensioner bracket.
  16. Remove the pump from the bracket and remove it from the vehicle through the exhaust tunnel on the floor pan.
To Install:
  1. Install the power steering pump through the exhaust tunnel of the vehicle.
  2. Install the pump on the bracket with the three mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lb. (54 Nm).
  3. Install the pump rear support bracket. Tighten the fasteners to 40 ft. lb. (54 Nm).
  4. Connect the pressure hose to the power steering pump. Make sure to inspect the o-ring and replace as needed. Tighten the fitting to 275 in. lb. (31 Nm).
  5. Connect the low pressure return hose to the power steering pump.
  6. Connect the supply hose from the reservoir to the pump. Make sure the hose is not near drive belt.
  7. Install the drive belt and splash shield.
  8. Connect the fluid return hose to the steel tube on the cradle and cover with the heat shield sleeve.
  9. Properly position the protective heat sleeve over the return hose. Secure the heat sleeve with a tie strap to the hose to keep it in place.
  10. Install the exhaust system.
  11. Connect the oxygen sensor wiring connector to the vehicle wiring harness.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Connect the negative battery cable.
  14. Fill and bleed the power steering system.
  15. Check for leaks.
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Oct 13, 2010 | 1997 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

I have an 1998 Chevy Blazer and need to change the catalytic converter, are the flange bolts welded and can i cut them


Catalytic Converter Removal & Installation 2.2L Engine To Remove:
Catalytic converter 2.2L engine gm-03-22-734.gif

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  3. Remove the exhaust manifold pipe flange mounting nuts from the catalytic converter.
  4. Remove the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts from the muffler.
  5. Remove the catalytic converter from the muffler.
  6. Remove the catalytic converter from the rear hanger bracket insulator.
  7. Remove the catalytic converter.
  8. Remove the (HO2S) from the catalytic converter.
To Install:
  1. Install the (HO2S) to the catalytic converter.
  2. Install a new gasket and the catalytic converter to the muffler.
  3. Install catalytic converter to the catalytic converter hanger.
  4. Install the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts to the muffler flange.
    • Tighten to 26 ft lbs (35 Nm).
  5. Install the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts to the exhaust manifold pipe flange.
    • Tighten to 26 ft lbs (35 Nm).
  6. Connect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  7. Lower the vehicle.
------ Catalytic Converter Removal & Installation 4.3L Engine To Remove:
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Raise and support the transmission.
  3. Remove the transmission support
  4. Disconnect the left and right pre-converter heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  5. Disconnect the post-converter (HO2S) connector. Muffler flange and gasket gm-03-43-731.gif

  6. Remove the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts from the muffler.
  7. Remove the catalytic converter from the muffler.
  8. Remove the exhaust manifold flange mounting nuts from the catalytic converter. Catalytic converter 4.3L engine gm-03-43-735.gif

  9. Remove the catalytic converter from the support bracket insulator.
  10. Remove the catalytic converter and gaskets.
  11. Remove the heated oxygen sensor.
To Install:
  1. Install the heated oxygen sensors as needed.
  2. Install a new gasket and the Install the catalytic converter to the support bracket insulator.
  3. Install the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold flange. Install the mounting nuts.
    • Tighten to 39 ft lbs (53 Nm).
  4. Using a new flange gasket, install the catalytic converter to the muffler. Install the mounting nuts.
    • Tighten to 30 ft lbs (40 Nm).
  5. Connect the left and right pre-converter heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.
  6. Connect the post-converter (HO2S) electrical connector.
  7. Install the transmission support.
  8. Lower the transmission.
  9. Lower the vehicle.
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It looks like you can cut them and replace them with new bolts and nuts.prev.gif next.gif

Sep 05, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Vehicle has a bad starter. There is a cover over the starter that must be removed. How complicated is it to remove and replace starter?


It's not too hard to replace. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding on the cover. There should be 2 14 or 15mm bolts going up thru the starter, into the block. Disconnect the wiring going to the starter. Some starters had a bracket on the front of it, holding it to the block. It'll take a little maneuvering of the starter to get it out.

Jun 08, 2010 | 1995 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Location of the starer on a 93 accura legend


Hello! The starter on a 1993 Legend is very well hidden. It is behind the left drive axle.

I'll give you the removal steps to give you a better idea.

Disconnect the wires from the starter motor solenoid...

Unbolt the bracket from the starter motor...

Remove the left drive axle (see chapter 8 in a Haynes repair manual)

Remove the forward section of the exhaust system (chapter 4)

Remove the starter mounting bolts and carefully maneuver the starter motor from under the vehicle.

As you can see this is a very difficult job.

Good luck.

Guru................saailer

Dec 12, 2009 | 1991 Acura Legend

1 Answer

Need to know how to remove starter from 1991 dodge caravan


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26065b4.jpg

Starter motor mounting-2.2L and 2.5L engines

- Working from under the vehicle, disconnect the starter motor heat shield clamp

fb70ec4.jpg

View of the starter motor with the heat shield removed while looking over the crossmember

-
Removing the starter motor mounting stud nut where the air pump tube bracket is also attached

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. The starter can be removed by reaching over the crossmember.
  3. Remove the heat shield and its clamps, if so equipped.
  4. On the 2.2L and 2.5L engines, loosen the air pump tube at the exhaust manifold and move the tube bracket away from the starter.
  5. Remove the electrical connections from the starter.
  6. Remove the bolts attaching the starter to the flywheel housing and the rear bracket to the engine or transaxle.
  7. Remove the starter from the engine.

To install:
  1. Position the replacement starter against the mounting surface.
  2. Install the mounting bolts.
  3. Connect the starter wiring.
  4. On 2.2L and 2.5L engines, position the air pump tube toward the starter, then connect the tube bracket to the exhaust manifold.
  5. Install the heat shield and clamp.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Nov 03, 2009 | 1991 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Need to replace starter


Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Disconnect battery negative remote cable from remote ground post.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle
Starter Motor

098a02a.gif
    1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    2. Three bolts attaching starter to engine
    • Positive battery cable from starter
    • Starter assembly from transmission housing
    1. Position jack stand beneath engine and slightly lift to relieve pressure from left engine mount.
    2. Remove three left engine mount bolts from engine block.
    3. Jack engine up slightly to give more room to maneuver starter assembly.
    4. Slide rear of starter motor out between catalytic converter and engine mount.
    1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    2. Posi-lock starter solenoid connector.
    • Starter from vehicle.
    To Install:
    1. Install or connect the following:
      • Positive battery cable to starter
      • Posi-lock starter solenoid connector
    2. Jack engine up slightly to give more room to maneuver starter assembly.
    3. Install or connect the following:
      • Starter
        1. Torque to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
      • Three left engine mount mounting bolts to engine block
    4. Lower vehicle.
    5. Connect the battery negative cable.
  • May 05, 2009 | 1998 Chrysler Concorde

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