An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
Cars & Trucks Expert
Re: brake lights on
This is a serious fault and needs sorting fast!!!!!! Check front and rear brake area`s for sign`s of leakage,check brake hoses,pipes and fittings for sign`s of leakage if there are no visable sign`s it maybe the master cylinder..PLEASE don`t delay do it today!!!!!!!!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Is this truck a Powerstroke Diesel, or a 351/5.8 or 460/7.5 Gas engine? If it is the powerstroke, check the Vacuum pump on the engine, this provides the power assist for the brake booster, it could be going bad from sitting. sitting is very hard on a vehicle, as moisture and thermal cycles do a lot of unseen damage. Brake fluid is one of those components affected by moisture and thermal cycles. If it is one of the Gas engines, it may well be the booster, but flush out all the brake fluid first, bleeding from the right hand rear wheel first, then left rear, right front then left front. Use only new fluid from a sealed container, discard open brake fluid containers after six months in humid climates, and a year in dry climates.
Dust and dirt accumulating on brake parts during normal use may
contain asbestos fibers from production or aftermarket brake linings.
Breathing excessive concentrations of asbestos fibers can cause serious
bodily harm. Exercise care when servicing brake parts. Do not sand or
grind brake lining unless equipment used is designed to contain the dust
residue. Do not clean brake parts with compressed air or by dry
brushing. Cleaning should be done by dampening the brake components with
a fine mist of water, then wiping the brake components clean with a
dampened cloth. Dispose of cloth and all residue containing asbestos
fibers in an impermeable container with the appropriate label. Follow
practices prescribed by the Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for
the handling, processing, and disposing of dust or debris that may
contain asbestos fibers.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.
Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.
Disconnect and plug the brake fluid line from the caliper.
Remove the brake caliper mounting bolt and guide bolt and remove
the caliper from the mount. The brackets can be removed for additional
Remove the brake pads and clips from the caliper. Inspect the brake pads for wear; replace them, if necessary.
Fig. Front caliper and related parts
Install the brake pads and clips onto the caliper.
If the caliper bracket was removed, tighten the bolts to 115 ft. lbs. (155 Nm).
Install the caliper on the mounting bracket. Torque the caliper-to-mounting bracket bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Connect the fluid line to the caliper using new washers. Torque the brake line banjo fitting to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Be sure the hook end of the flexible brake line is positioned in the anti-rotation cavity.
Refill the master cylinder reservoir and bleed the brake system.
first check the fluid level for sure is going to be low or dry if is low add some you have to drain the air from the sistem you have to open the drain valve on top of the transmision with the container full let it run by it self for a minute keep an eye on the container dont runout of fluid had to be brake fluid and keep it on level closed the valve and the container and pump the pedal 5 times then if there is no leaks you will have some pressure but if it leaks from betwen engine and traini you have a bad clouch sleave
I will assume you have some mechanical ability to explain this process:
Remove cover on master cylinder and make sure the brake fluid is filled to the proper level.
-For a one man job; get a piece of 3/16" X 2' clear plastic hose.
-Starting at the furthest brake cylinder; typically the right rear wheel.
-With the proper wrench, loosen the bleeder valve and place the hose over the opening.
-Fill an empty container (empty brake fluid bottle works great) about 1/4 of the way with brake fluid...put the other end of the hose into the container, ensuring the end of the hose is secure in the bottom of the container.
-Open the bleeder valve, ho around to the driver side and pump the brake pedal (slowly or you'll make a mess under the hood), about three times.
-Refill the master cylinder and repeat until the liquid in the hose is clear.
-Repeat process for the left rear, right front, and then the left front.
first of all make sure master cylinder is full of brake fluid.then you crank car leave foot off brake pedal. watch abs light on dash it should turn off in 10 seconds if not have car towed to garage or dealer. they have to use a scanner to scan the abs brakes if abs light turn off in 3 seconds. then starting bleeding from master bleed the lower brake line fitting at the proportional valve followed by the upper brake line fitting. keep eye on brake fluid in mastercylinder dont let run dry.next prime the abs hydralic modulator.connect the bleeder hose to the rear bleeder valve on the modulator.place the other end into a container partially filled with cleab brake fluid.make sure the end of the hose is submerged.open the bleeder valve slowly about 1/2 to 3/4 turn have an assistant depress the brake pedal and hold it in the depressed position. when the flow of fluid ceases close the bleeder valve.repeat process until no air bubbles are present in the fluid.then tighten the bleed valve securely. start bleeding brakes. your bleeding sequence is right rear - left front - left rear - right front.WARNING IF ALL FAILS YOUR BRAKES DONT FEEL SOLID AND FEEL VERY SPONGY.DONT DRIVE CAR. HAVE IT TOWED TO DEALERSHIP.THEY WILL HAVE TO PRESSURE BLEED YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM.
As the brake pads wear, the brake pad wear sensor contained in the brake pad contacts the brake rotor. This causes the sensor to fail. When a pad wear sensor fails it opens the ground circuit of the pad wear warning light system causing the pad wear warning light to illuminate. Perform normal brake service to correct this condition and be sure to replace the brake pads with pads containing wear sensors. Once the brake pads and wear sensors are replaced, reset the brake pad warning system by turning the ignition switch to the "on" position. As long as continuity to ground exists through all the brake pad wear sensors the system should reset and the pad warning light in the dash will go out. If the pad warning light does not go out, a check of the pad warning circuit for an open circuit condition or poor ground must be performed.
Open your hood and look for a small container (5-6 oz) with fluid inside usually close to the front window of the car. On the top it will say Dot 3 fluid only, or something to that effect. This is where your brake fluid goes in. Fill it within 3/4 inch of the top of the "container".
You should also check your brakes. It could be your fluid is low, due to your brakes being worn out. Check both front and rear.