I can spray starting fluid in bowl on top and it will crank most of the time whats wierd is if i apply brake to shift into gear it will stall the engine but after running for awhile it wont do that anymore. Also seems like it idles smooth but when i start driving and press brake so i can put it in gear it kills the motor unless i take my foot off quickly. anyway later on after it has been running for about 1 hr. the brake pedal does not affect it anymore but still feels like it isnt getting enough gas , air ? dont know what it is but it just dont have the power it should when you get on it pretty hard sometimes it even jerks
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1. Replace any hydraulic line showing external damage. Rubber hoses more than 4 years old should be replaced. Install new seals for all disconnected fittings (as required) and install an in-line power steering filter. Tighten all hose fittings to OE specifications. 2. Flush the entire power steering system using the vehicle manufacturers recommended fluid. Fill pump reservoir to the proper level.
3. Disable engine to allow cranking without starting. This can be done by unplugging the main power wire (large red one) from your Delco HEI Distributor unit. Block wheels, put transmission in neutral or park and set parking brake, then crank engine 5 to 10 seconds (avoid overheating starter motor).
4. Refill pump reservoir as necessary. Repeat step 3 until level is correct.
5. Enable the engine to allow starting. Start engine and let idle. Slowly turn steering wheel from lock to lock a number of times.
6. Turn engine off and inspect fluid level and condition. Add or remove fluid as necessary. If fluid is foaming, wait one hour then recheck level. Repeat step 5 and 6 until fluid level is correct and shows no sign of air. If the problem persists recheck installation and connections.
1. With engine off, apply and release brake pedal 5 to 10 applications to deplete accumulator reserve pressure. With foot slightly pressing brake pedal, start engine. Pedal should drop and then push back against your foot.
2. With engine running, turn steering wheel until lightly against steering stop. After 5 seconds return wheels to the straight ahead position and turn engine off. Apply and release brake pedal. There should be at least one power assisted brake application. Start engine and allow accumulator to recharge before moving vehicle. 3. Test drive vehicle.
NEVER operate any vehicle until brake and booster systems are functioning properly. Remember, your vehicle is only as good as it's braking system. Brakes are the singlemost important component on any motorized vehicle.
very possible if you have a security light or anti theft light coming on flashing yes that's the problem is not check for spark anD fuel if you have spark try spraying starter fluid through the intake if it cranks then you may have a problem with a cam sensor
There is no sensor that controls starting. No starts are usually from lack of gas or loss of spark. That is, if the battery is strong enough-charged up enough-that it will crank the engine over.
If your engine is cranking over, check for a fuel problem: spray some starting fluid into the air intake-take the big air boot off where it connects to the engine and spray a shot or two of starting fluid in there. Then try starting. If the engine fires a bit and tries to run, then you know it wasn't getting gas. You will then need to test and check if the fuel pump is working and putting gas up to the engine.
If the starting fluid made no difference, then checking for spark would be next-maybe the ignition system has a problem.
Let me know what you found out, and we can go from there. Have any repairs been done recently? What year S-10, what size engine, and how many miles? Did this just start happening? The more you can tell us, the better chance we have of helping you.
i have a 90 chevy 2500 2wd 350ci.when i go to start my truck the key turns hard in the ignition,the check engine light and brake light come on the heater dont work,and the transmission will shift from 1-2 at real high rpm and shift hard,no 3-od.this comes and goes,but all happens at the same time.some times it last for 10 min,sometimes its days.what is going on?
Try spraying starting fluid into the air intake, with the help of someone else starting the car. As they crank over the car, spray the starting fluid into the air intake. Do this for at least 15 seconds. If the car tries to start up the fuel pump has probably gone bad. When turning the key to the on position do you hear the fuel pump humming? If the pump is not humming the fuel pump is probably bad.
First check your brake fluid.
Either you have a failing brake booster, or you have developed a leak in one of your brake lines. If your brake line is leaking, it should be pretty evident, i.e. oily looking substance sprayed underneath the vehicle or in the wheel wells, if the booster is leaking (the large black/silver almost bowl shaped thing directly in front of the driver under the hood against the back wall) there will most likely be fluid dripping down the firewall below it, if your brake fluid is extremely low/empty, you probably have a leak, that could be at the booster or on a line, or even at the caliper/drum. If it is empty (which can make your ABS light, light up) then you have yourself a leak. Also, if the fluid is really low, you could try adding some, although you will have air in the lines if it was low enough to floor the brake, but you might be able to find the leak if you refill the fluid and cause it to spray from the leak again. Have someone watch under the vehicle while you do this.
Do this, take the top off the carb, being careful not to damage the gasket. Then take some carb cleaner and clean out the bowl and floats. Remove the needle valve and clean it out. Put it all back together and filling the bowl with carb cleaner. Start it with the starting fluid. Once you run the carb cleaner through it, it should start to run on it's own. Whatever you do don't shut it off for about 20-30 min unless you have to.