Question about Cars & Trucks
Steering got loose no tension on steering wheel after forcing the steering wheel. Need to fix it because it feels like I have no control of the car at all. Has new Fron CV axle shaft, new wheel bearing, new shocks and strout mount. Mechanic check it and can't find the problem But I know there is a problem. Is there a spring or some hydraulic system in the steering column that I could damage by forcing the steering wheel while is in lock mode. Please Help me out so the mechanics don't think I am stupid cause I am a women. Thank you so much for any help.
Variable Effort Steering System Description and Operation
The Variable Effort Steering (VES) system or MAGNASTEER® Varies the amount of effort required to steer the vehicle as vehicle speed changes. At low speeds, the system provides minimal steering effort for easy turning and parking Maneuvers. Steering effort is increased at higher speeds to provide firmer steering (road feel) and directional stability. The Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) controls a bi-directional magnetic rotary actuator located in the steering rack and pinion. The EBCM varies the steering assist by adjusting the current flow through the actuator to achieve a given level of effort to steer the vehicle. The VES system accomplishes this by adding or subtracting torque on the input shaft to the rack and pinion. The main component of the system is an electromagnetic actuator, which consists of a multiple-pole ring-style permanent magnet, a pole piece, and an electromagnetic coil assembly. The VES system uses the ABS wheel speed sensor inputs to determine vehicle speed. When the EBCM senses wheel speed, it commands a current to the VES actuator that is most appropriate for each speed. The EBCM commands current from negative two amps to positive three amps to the actuator, which is polarized. At low speeds, a negative current is commanded, which assists steering. At medium speeds no current is commanded and steering is assisted by hydraulics only. At high speeds, a positive current is commanded, which creates steering resistance. Ignition voltage and ground are provided through the EBCM. The EBCM has the ability to detect malfunctions in the actuator or the circuits to the actuator. Any malfunctions detected will cause the system to ramp to zero amps and steering will be assisted by hydraulics only and setting a DTC.
The Magnasteer® system is a speed-dependent power steering system. The Magnasteer® system provides power assist at varying levels depending on need.
A bi-directional magnetic rotary actuator in the steering gear adjusts the amount of torque (driver effort) necessary to turn the steering wheel.
The Magnasteer® is controlled through the ABS module and varies the torque by adjusting the current flow through the actuator.
The amount of adjustment will be directly related to the vehicle speed. The controller receives speed-related input signals from the vehicle speed sensor.
For more information on Magnasteer® refer to Variable Effort Steering System Description and Operation
Is the vehicle driveable ? The steering wheel is connected to the wheels
DTC C0450 Steering Assist Control Solenoid/Motor/Actuator Circuit
Sounds like it's stuck on full assist .
Posted on Apr 25, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you can go to advance auto and use there scanner for free to clear the code its called an obd2 connection or when you disconnect your battery you can touch your black negative cable to your red positive cable that connects to the battery and it will completley drain everything and reset but warning you if your trying to get the car through emissions your gonna have to drive the car 50 or 100 miles after you disconnect the battery each time..
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
SOURCE: Grand Am GT Cruise Control
the face of the steering wheel does come off. In the back of the steering wheel there should be two holes if you feel around for them. In those holes are screws that hold the face on, just undo those screws and the face should come off. After that DO MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE AIRBAG. You don't want the going off in your face.
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
I had the same problem my car. It started once in a while until the light would not go off. My husband looked at it and he said the wire on the antilock brake bearing hub corroded and came off. Maybe yours is starting to corrode. My husband said to tell you that there are two wires that come out of the back of the bearing hub. He soddered it together on mine and I hav not had a problem since.
Posted on May 19, 2009
If the wheel is in balance and there is no other signs of what is causing the vibration than yes that cv joint should be chk. Is the strut ok? might want to chk. that too.
Posted on May 31, 2009
The problem is in the "steering shaft".The slip joint that is used on Wranglers and many other applications uses 2 splined shaft that slide into one another. I explained the problem to a shade tree mechanic I work with,he knew exactly what it was and explained my symptoms exactly.He said he had a cavalier that had the same type of shaft years back and experienced the same problem.Lack of grease between the splines or excesively worn splines are the problem.Since the wrangler is brand new ,I would expect a lack of grease. He told me to use open gear compund(ALSO FITH WHEEL GREASE).Its a "high" tack grease that actually becomes thicker as its worked.(used in appliations where 2 gears intersect each other but are not able to be oiled due to size or configuration).I took some from our maintence shop at work and bought a small grease/oil syringe. I took my shaft off yesterday while performing an oil change.It took less than 5 minutes. Upon removal I notice a tiny bit of slop when I twisted the upper and lower portions of the shaft.Not much but enough to feel it through the steering wheel.I removed the upper clamp and inserted the grease syringe under the lip.I pumped the boot full of that black goop.I used a zip tie to secure the boot. After the boot was secure.I worked the shaft to compression and back to full extension until it became very hard to slide them back and forth into each other.As I stated ,this open gear compound is very thick and has a high tack to it.You will know once its worked its way into the splines.I could not feel any slop betwen the shafts any more. I reinstalled the shaft and Viola! No more clunky steering.A new steering shaft will probably cure the problem,but just greasing it solved mine. I don't think regular grease will cut it,it might be ok but it will have to be done more often. I hope this helps everyone.I've been trying to track this down for 2 months and I finally got it thanks to some **** mechanic
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
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