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How to remover cover for seat belt bolt access 2007 ford escape

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  • Daniel Lewis Dec 30, 2012

    Ended up getting it off. There are two clips at the very top that have to be pressed in with a thin screwdriver or knife while the adjuster is being squeezed.. the top part then bends down.. on either side are two more clips that hold the plastic cover to the adjuster buttons.. once those are loose you need to insert a screwdriver in between the seatbelt bolt and the adjuster buttons and push up on a final retaining clip to get the thing off.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Squeeze the adjuster and pull out at the bottom

How to remover cover for seat belt bolt access 200 - 12_30_2012_7_01_40_pm.jpg

Posted on Dec 30, 2012

  • Daniel Lewis Dec 30, 2012

    That allows it to slide up and down to adjust seatbelt height but does not remove it.

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SOURCE: seat belt

just pop up the plastic cover with a screwdriver

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The armrests have covers that can be removed. Locate the zipper on the arm rest. Once you unzip it pull it toward the back of the arm rest and this will expose the one bolt that hold the armrest on. You will need a large torx and rachet to get it off. Once you take out that bolt the armrest will come right off.

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

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SOURCE: Ford Escape middle rear seat

Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Continued:
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.

Posted on Dec 09, 2010

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Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Continued:
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.

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Retractor and Tongue—Sedan
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Safety Belt Bolt Bit T77L-2100A
NOTE: Safety Belt Bolt Bit T77L-2100-A should be used for safety belt removal and installation.

Removal
  1. Remove rear seat cushion. Refer to Section 01-10 .
Seat Cushion, Rear Sedan
Removal
  1. Apply knee pressure to lower front portion of the rear seat cushion. Push rearward to disengage rear seat cushion pad and frame (600A88) from rear seat cushion front retainers (63370).
  1. Remove rear seat cushion from vehicle.
  1. Remove rear seat back. Refer to Section 01-10 .
Seat Back, Rear 60/40 Split Bench—Sedan
Removal
  1. NOTE: Safety belt bolts do not secure seat back to vehicle.

    Remove rear seat cushion as described.
  1. Fold down back seat and remove two bolts in the center of each seat back striker plates.
  1. Remove two bolts from outboard rear seat back frame retaining brackets.
  1. Lift seat back up and pull forward to remove from vehicle.
  1. Remove panel (52018) and quarter trim panel (31012). Refer to Section 01-05 .
Trim Panel, Quarter—Sedan Removal
  1. Remove rear seat. Refer to Section 01-10 .
  1. Pull up on rear section of rear door scuff plate that overlaps lower quarter trim panel.
  1. Pull lower quarter trim panel away from body.
  1. Remove safety belt retaining bolt.
  1. Feed safety belt through lower quarter trim panel.
  1. Remove safety belt anchor plate-to-sill bolt from quarter panel.
  1. Remove retractor anchor nut and retractor from rear quarter panel.
  1. Remove upper seat belt anchor bolt and anchor from upper rear quarter panel.
  1. Slide anchor plate end of safety belt through the openings in the quarter trim panel.
  1. Remove outboard front safety belt retractor and tongue (611B08) from the vehicle.


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    Item Part Number Description 1 386277-S190 Bolt (Part of 611B68) 2 31012 Upper Rear Quarter Trim Panel 3 611B60 Retractor and Tongue 4 N800937-S190 Nut 5 389370-S190 Bolt 6 — Rear Quarter Panel (Part of Body) 7 52018 Lower Rear Quarter Trim Panel 8 — Mounting Stud (Part of Body)
  1. Remove seat belt anchor bolt and retractor and tongue from rear deck panel.


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Installation
  1. To install, reverse Removal procedure.
  1. Make sure the safety belt webbing is not twisted. If it is, remove the twist.
  1. Tighten retractor anchor bolt and safety belt anchor plate-to-sill bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Check the restraint system for proper operation.

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