How do you take drive shaft out on a ford corsair?
Do i need to remove the front disk, to remove the drive shaft? i need to fit a new clutch, but that big bolt that holds the wheel bearing i can't take it off it is really tight, is there any other way to remove the driveshaft without removing the disks? The car is a ford corsair
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Re: how do you take drive shaft out on a ford corsair?
Ford corsair built in the 60s is a rear wheel drive car??.Any front wheel drive vehicle must have the big nut undone in the centre of the wheel ,put some engine oil on it let it soak for a day then undo it with a 32mm socket and a 3/4 drive socket set or 1inch drive socket set .1/2 inch is unlikely to do it as the knuckle bar will snap .most front wheel drive cars you will need to drop the subframe as well so give everything a good soaking with an oil can ,NOT WD 40 you do not need to remove the disk only the drive shaft ,undo the lower track control arm ,the track rod end and with big nut undone,screw it back on till end is flush with shaft thread the wack shaft in to loosen it using a nice bit of hardwood so you dont damage the thread on the end .
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Remove the front drive shaft remove the drive yoke off the pinion shaft remove the old seal install new seal install front drive shaft. PS check pinion bearing play before removing drive yolk. if it is loose then you might also need bearings
The transmission has to be removed. If it's a frobnt wheel drive car, the front axles have to be removed in order to remove the transmission.
The flywheel should be removed, too, and machined flat by an automotive machine shop. With the flywheel removed you may wish to replace the engine's rear main seal since it may leak oil.
The clutch often comes in a "key", which includes a new clutch pressure plate, clutch disk, and a "throw-out bearing" (used by the clutch fork to disengage the clutch). The kit may alos include a broze "pilot bearing", which is used to center the transmission's input shaft inot the engine crack shaft. The kit will include a placstic alignment tool to help the clutch disk while the new pressure plate is attached to the flywheel.
You need some very specialized tools to do that You'll need a jack to hold the transfer case once you remove all the bolts holding it to the transmission. Remove the drive shafts.Then you'll need to remove the transmission, again with a supporting jack. Once that has been accomplished , remove the bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel. I'd replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel that holds the input shaft to the gearbox before proceeding. There are special tools available to do that. Now assemble the clutch disk and the clutch plate and put the bolts back in without tightening them. Now take the clutch alignment tool and push it thru the clutch disk and into the new pilot bearing. position it so the clutch disk is dead center in the clutch plate and then finish tightening the bolts Put a new throw out bearing on the clutch release lever and reinstall the transmission and transfer case. Reinstall the drive shafts and replace any gear oil that may have spilled out of the transmission or transfer case. Adjust the clutch pedal clearance to spec and you're done.
I have the same problem. I had five new bearings fitted ... one on each wheel and one on the long drive shaft. The noise is now ten times worse so I would guess a faulty "new" bearing being fitted. Ford say that it can only be the final drive bearings in the gearbox now which means an exchange gearbox (not expensive ... around £350 - £400) but add labour and fitting a new clutch while the opportunity is there, I'm giving £700 a nasty look. If I am in neutral with engine running, the noise is not there. If I coast out of gear (with clutch in or out), the noise is there ... can only be the wheel bearings or gearbox driveshaft bearings.
What engine? four wheel drive?
Remove rear drive shaft, transfer case if it is four wheel drive, and front drive shaft.
Get the kit to replace clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing.
If the flywheel is worn, or grooved, replace it or get it turned at a machine shop.
undo centre wheel hub nut 30mm/32mm, socket. undo lower wish-bone outer bolts, disconect battery,/remove starter motor,/remove transmission mounting bolts to body frame ,/ remove all surrounding bolts around bell housing transmission,/ remove clutch cable from transmission,/ remove drive shafts from centre hub and transmission,/ make sure car is standing on axle stands at front of jacking points,/use a trolley jack to suport engine sump with a piece of wood,/ slide transmission away from flywheel,/lower transmision on floor,/undo all clutch plate preasure bolts 10mm,/remove thrust bearing located on centre transmision shaft ,.also make sure if fitted speedo cable needs to be removed.new clutch plate should indicate flywheel ,without fitting clutch plate wrong way round/otherwise transmision will not bolt to engine block.,
Remove drive shaft,remove crossmember under transmission.Remove transmission and diconnect linkage.Remove bell housing,and clutch berring assembely.Remove bolts on pressure plate.Once this is done.Remove fly wheel for machineing.you will need a pilot shaft to alighn clutch assemblely.Possible one will come with new clutch and pressure plate.Reverse assemblely in same order remember to torque all your bolts with torque wrench.Take your time.