Question about 1994 Honda Civic
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No Heat In My Honda Civic.
I do not know the history of your 94 civic as far as mileage, how well the car has been maintained or not maintained. Could be a block within one of your heater hoses, the valve that open and closes to allow the radiator fluid through your heater core to recirculate the water, or a block within your heater core from rust deposits and or lack of servicing your radiator fluid could cause a build-up of deposits. You might have an air lock within your cooling system" air pockets". Perhaps you can purge your coolant system to allow any air bubbles or pockets that may have entered the cooling system when adding coolant, replacing a radiator, or simply servicing the coolant system. Make sure you have the proper radiator cap to produce the proper amount of pressure with your cooling system. Check for any fluid leaks in your cooling system as well. This may allow air into your cooling sytem.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
If something off the road tore the boot, yes but if it has not been tore long and you don't hear any clicking noises around corners, you can just replace the boot.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
u can get a boot with all accessories and grease for like 12 bucks at napa. u will need a clamping tool but might be able to sub in a vice grips. depending on if its inner boot or outter you have to take the steering knuckle most of the way off and then cut the old boot and slip on new one with grease and then the clamps. when u are done you will need a front ent alignment. for the amount of work and the aliugnment $200 doesnt seam too bad but depends how comfortable u are doing all the work.
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
Bearings are pressed into the hubs...much easier, faster and economical (if you don't have a press) to replace the complete bearing/hub assembly, no pressing is needed, since bearings are already pressed into the new hubs. Cost..aprox, 60 buxs each.
Here are the steps for the rear replacement...
Loosen the lug nuts on a rear wheel. 2) Chock the wheels and jack the rear of the car on the side with the lug nuts that you just loosened. 3) Remove the wheel by removing the lug nuts. 4) Pry open the dust cap covering the center of the axle/spindle. A small screwdriver tapped into the space between the hub and dust cap will work well for this. 5) With the dust cap now removed, use a thin center punch to straighten the little dent in the rim of the spindle nut so that you will be able to turn it freely in the next step. 6) Use a 32mm socket and a large breaker-bar to loosen the spindle nut. Unscrew the nut all the way and place it in a clean, safe area. 7) You should now be able to slide the hub/bearing assembly from the shaft. 8) Installation is the reverse of removal. Use plenty of high-temperature wheel bearing grease on all surfaces before you mount the replacement hub assembly.
IMPORTANT: Torque the spindle nut to 134 ft/lbs....(per manual specs)
When reinstalling the dust caps, tap them gently into place to avoid denting them...Install wheels, jack her down and pat yourself on the back...job complete.
Good luck..hope this will fixya up...please take time to leave me a fixya rateing...
Posted on May 23, 2009
I would not let them go for to long, it will only cost you more money in the long run. I have had several front wheel drive cars, one being a honda. I let them go for a few months when I new they needed replacing. All the dust and little rocks and debris got in there. I ended up having to replace both drive axels and also replacing the boots. So I would get this fixed as soon as possible.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
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