Ok---the trans is probably junk but here goes: Car starts off in 2nd, jumps down to 1st back to 2nd then quick 1st , 2nd, 3rd......
The pattern is the same whether you floor it or accelerate slowly. If you wind it up in first and shift manually it works fine.
The kick down cable is not responsible, disconnected it--no change.
The vacuum modulator is not at fualt, ditto as above, no change.
I suspect the ''B2'' piston has failed, I've read alot about that and seems like a typical problem.
I decided changing the trans fluid and filter will accomplish nothing except hasten the trans' demise.
Reverse does take a few seconds to kick in.
Trans fluid is pink and nice, full too.
Hello, The adjust of your t/v cable, not kickdown cable, and the operation of the vacuum controller at the rear of injection pump, and the modulator, is critical for this car to get a good shift. Put you cable back on, adjust it so that when you have wide open throttle, the cable does not have any slack. Check the black vacuum line by the oil filter housing that goes to the modulator to see if it has vacuum. It should have about 10-15" vacuum and as you increase engine speed it should drop. If you get close to this, the trans should shift ok. If you cannot get vacuum at the modulator line, you need to ck vacuum supply, valve at rear of injection pump, hose routing, etc. If the B2 piston failed, it would be difficult to move car or slip badly. Also, take into mind that at the bottom of your accelerator pedal stroke is a kickdown switch. If you accomplish what I instructed, you will probably get a decent shift. If you find this information to be correct would you please enter a "fixya" rating. Thanks, Gator241
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Sounds to me that your transmission is put itself into what is call (Limp Mode). This happens when the transmission fluid in the trans hydraulic valve body located on the bottom and in the trans pan are not within the parameters of the transmission computer. You can remove the trans pan and gasket to check for metallic material in the bottom of the pan. There is normally a strong magnet in the pan catch the material so I can't move freely through the transmission itself. It only takes a very small piece of foreign material to stop the flow of the valve body fluid. I would first take it to somewhere that had a automotive diagnostic scan tool that can read transmission codes to see if there are any active codes. Next you can drop the transmission pan yourself and look for material in it. Basically do a visually inspection and service the transmission fluid, gasket, and filter. Remember, all a automatic transmission is a extremely complicated fluid pump. If its pumping trans fluid properly it's probably working just fine. Been when the trans fluid gets hot, scorched, and stops moving. It will not work. Hope this helps
If it wont shift at all, its very likely computer related. Its unlikely it could be vacuum because of its age. Their is a computer for newer trans and sometimes some of the components can fail. I once bought an accord that lost 2nd and 3rd due to its computer, shifted great after i hit the junk yard. If it shifts hard though, solenoids and valve body gasket.
You are right about the shift pattern. Reverse is hard left and up.If your gears are locked up, you'll probably have to remove the side cover and reset the shift levers to their neutral position and then slide gears around to put it back on. With it back on the shift levers should point up toward the car floor. 3-4 is the shift lever closest to the engine. 1-2 is the middle one and reverse is the one closest to the back of the tranny. Check all your swivel points for looseness. If there is any play then you'll have to bush it out or you'll have trouble getting it to shift into gear and stay in. I used some old copper pipe to make bushings on mine, because it used to jump out of gear.
To properly attach your shift linkage, put the shifter and the trans mounted shift levers in neutral. Loosen the locking clamps so the shift rods slide freely. start with the reverse lever, which is the inner most rod on the shifter and tighten the rod nut against the swivel. Then tighten the lock nut. Do the same with the 1-2 rod on the middle rod on the shifter and then the 3-4 which is the outside rod . This should set you up, according to Chilton.
They note that if the tranny is 68 Camero Muncie the shift rods need to be shortened 3 complete turns of the lock nut.
Hope some of this helps.
you may not have trans problem at all. most of the time your motor mounts when worn out or broken can cause a hard ****. Put your car into gear with your foot on the brake and give some gas abrubtly and see if your engine jumps. do the same in reverse. remember to use the brake and have your hood open to see if your motor jumps.