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Brand new alternator & good charge on battery when

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A couple things,a wire going to the starter could be melted to the exhaust,a bad connection on the battery or starter solenoid ,started could be bad,brushes wore down too low and shorting out,or your battery may read good with a meter after charging but test your battery with a load tester,you may have a dead cell or cells or even a short inside the battery,when you turn the key the battery will short out inside and then all the lights are dim but if you just move the battery cables just a little,every thing looks normal until you try to start it again,this happen to me,every time my boss would try to start our service truck,everything would go dim,fan's would slow,my boss would yell to me,turn the cable to get a better connection,I did this a few times until I was bent down ,to look under the opened hood to see my boss setting in the drivers seat telling me to move the cables more,and every time,just click,then as I was bent over the battery to see my boss,the battery was only inch's from my head,it exploded,covering me in the battery acid,a piece of the top of the battery shot through my hair,leaving me with a gash across my head,with out hair,kinda like a over sized part,but bleeding,the acid never burnt me or hurt me at all,but the sound of the battery blowing up inch's from my head,I couldn't hear all day,just a load humming sound,,,so be care full when working with a battery that could have a short,and never buy new acid and add it to your battery,the two fluids ARE NOT COMPATIBLE,and the slightest spark from static will be enough to explode the battery.

Posted on Dec 30, 2012

  • Kevin Renteria Dec 30, 2012

    I just replaced the alternator & the starter the battery is in good charge every time I turn the key to start it the power to the whole car cuts off??? The wires to the starter look old but can't tell if that's the problem???

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SOURCE: I HAVE A 1995 ISUZU

Could be one of two things.

1. Your starter motor is no good.
2. If you turn on your lights and try to start the car and they dim to almost black, then you need to check the battery connections.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • 1779 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Nissan Pathfinder charging problems

How long did the 2nd alt. last before it died? The voltage regulator is, I believe, attached to the alternator. Have u had the voltage regulator checked?

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Whole Electrical system shuts down when ignition key turned

Try cleaning the battery connectors at both ends and make sure the ground at the frame is clear of rust. If that check out, drop the starter and have it bench tested

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1991 olds cutlass supreame 3.1

Did you check the starter relay and make sure that all the connections to the starter are correct?

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 534 Answers

SOURCE: New alternator didn't charge battery. (2VDC

As the car re-started, the battery is not flat.
The voltages measured indicate a problem with either the power or ground connection in the circuit between the alternator and the battery.

You likely have a intermittent / poor ground connection somewhere in the power system.
Check battery terminals are clean and firmly attached.
Check battery cable and alternator ground connections are intact and in good order.

Posted on Oct 30, 2009

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Interesting problem. There are a number of things that can contribute to these symptoms: Battery not holding charge, charging system not working, bad/corroded battery and/or starter cable connections, and of course something draining the battery when the ignition is off.

Before doing these tests, make sure the battery is fully charged by disconnecting it from the car and charging it 24 hours with an external battery charger.

Is the charging system (alternator) working? Accords have an idiot light, not an ammeter/voltmeter, so it could be your car isn’t charging and the indicator light is burned out. Connect a voltmeter to a fully charged battery and observe the voltage (should be about 13.8 volts). Now start the car and observe the voltage again, should be higher than before (around 15 volts). If the voltage doesn’t increase at least slightly either the alternator belt is loose and slipping or the alternator is bad.

Are the battery terminals tight/clean? Any corrosion on the terminals or wires? How about the end that connects to the starter? How about the ground wire to chassis? Any corrosion could produce an intermittent connection problem that acts like a dead battery.

The battery may be new…but is it good? Charge it, connect it and confirm the car starts. Then DISCONNECT the battery, let sit 24 hours, re-connect and try to start. If the battery now acts dead maybe it is bad. Exchange under warranty.

And last, something is discharging the battery. First question, do you have any non-Honda add-ons like an aftermarket audio system with a power amp? Audio power amps have a direct wire to the battery for greater power, if the amp isn’t turning off then you’ll have a drain. Try disconnecting such equipment and see if your problem goes away. If that’s not it connect an ammeter in series with the battery with the ignition OFF and start pulling fuses one by one until you find what’s causing the drain.

Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

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Have the battery tested, even new ones can be faulty. Then check the entire wiring harness between the battery and the alternator.

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