Question about 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i have a 2006 chevy cobalt LT..and i just replaced my oil filter today!!! after several hours of looking i finally looked on the front side of the transmission block.to the left just below the air intake system is a hard heat resistant plastic black bolt topper.it is 1 1/4" in size..i bought a 1 1/2" size and a 36mm size socket torque wrench..both didnt work..1 1/2 was way too big, the 36mm was just slightly too big..took them back, replaced for the 1 1/4" inch socket and voila!!! is was rather difficult..you will need an extender and some good torquing to do to pop it..but once you do it will pop fine..oh, and you will need a 1/2" drive socket wrench.but the 1 1/4"inch socket..pop it onto a 1/2" drive socket wrench with the extender and you are good to go!!
Posted on Jun 10, 2008
SOURCE: 2000 Chevy Blazer
i am working on a s 10 of the same yaer and problem i will post my results after tomorrow when i have finished the job i bout this truck cause of the forum i own one that is a great one and this one is for experimental purpose i will let u know so far you cant lift the motor with a jack or a hoist so we r going another route in the mornin
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
If you can see and get to all of the bolts which hold the oil pan to the bottom of the engine and if it appears obvious that the oil pan can be removed without being blocked by anything else, then you don't have to remove the engine. Come to think of it, I don't think that I have ever seen a car where you had to remove the engine in order to remove the oil pan.
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
Gasket = $35 (permatex rubber)
Labor - my manual says 3 hours.
You'll have to be responsible for figuring out the labor price per hour depending on where you are located.
In MI, a garage is about $50/hr, and dealership = $85/hr
CA might be $95/$150/hr.
Parts are minimal on the job - its all labor.
Figure in about $20 for shop supplies... gasket remover, sealant, rags, etc.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
I'm asuming you would like to do it in the truck. To do that you need to remove the inspection cover from the front bottom of the transmission, the starter, the oil filter, the distributor cap ( don'tunplug the wires) and the bolts from the motor mounts. With this done you should be able to jack up the engine with a block under the oil pan and a hydraulic jack. BE CAREFUL,don't force things. When the engine stops lifting find out why before you try to make it go up more.The engine needs to raise about 3-4 inches to get enough clearance. Block it up usually between the motor mounts. If you block it at the harmonic balancer you run a high risk of doing damage to your crank, I know it's easier but...it's your crank.If you need to lift it higher when you are trying to slide the oil pan outthen put it back in place and do it that way. Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
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